daeron

Okay, folks. I have made noises about "NOS Soobie parts hoard" for a while now, and my uncle and I are finally getting to mining through that pit and selling pieces of it off. Naturally, I have been designated as the Subaru-er-In-Chief. We have a brand new carb (1600 or older i THINK, IIRC) a new dizzy or two (points style) a new alternator, some shocks I think, a NIB red passenger side power XT/6 mirror?? SCADS of left side dual round headlight assemblies but no right hand, and four or five of these radiators. Those of you who have contacted me in the past regarding this stuff, please take this as a signal to do so once more; I plan on going through my PM inbox and revisiting all past correspondence before actually selling ANYthing, but since I have several of these radiators I figured this was an innocuous enough point at which to start. Pics will come later, but the core itself is just under 10.5" tall and its 21 inches wide. Total width from tank end to tank end is 27" at the fattest point (right where the inlet nozzle is.) Filler cap is on USDM Drivers side, as is return nozzle. The return nozzle points directly towards the side of the vehicle, and the inlet nozzle points directly towards the back. Nozzles are 1 1/4" in diameter, and there is a ~3/4" threaded plug hole just below the inlet nozzle. All black, all metal construction. Even includes original SOA rad cap and drainoff tube. About half of the radiators are still in original boxes, but those boxes are in sad shape. The radiators look brand brand new, 9.89/10. The biggest issue I can find with the one I have here at my house is a mildly kinked little vinyl hose from the overflow runoff, and even THAT is just superficial. part number is there, but thee label is flaking. digits with a ? next to them are, of course, questionable. No spaces, I put them in for purposes of clarity. 6 4 5? 0 1 0? 4 6 0 All of these parts came from a dealer who went out of business in the mid 80's, so the NEWEST it could possibly be would be early EA82*, but I figured this forum gets more traffic than the "historic." I wanted to post it here to grab the attention of everyone I had spoken to in the past about these things as well. *I don't know how the XT mirror fits into this, but the dealership closed in 84, 85, or 86 i cant recall which... and the mirror is DEFINITELY XT. Camera batteries are charging right now, pics will come in a bit.

+ a bajillion on the center locking AWD tranny, if only it were D/R I think he was implying that it might be an LSD. Even if you don't use it, a 3.9:1 R-160 LSD can be sold to 510 guys on ebay for 2-300 bucks

Ohmygod, I have wanted to do this since I first saw my car years ago when my brother got it.... That thing pwns.

I have a GL-10 that came with the stereo, trip computer, and no tape deck. I ordered the 87 GL-10 install kit from critchfield (30 bucks plus shipping but it was the right kit) and, through some wizardry with bending and cutting some sheetmetal brackets, I managed to install a two cup cupholder from a toyota corolla into the dask unit underneath my stereo deck. It is a COMPLETELY "kustom" job (I use the "K" to indicate redneckery) and quite frankly, I never use it.. still keep my drink next to the seat, on the change holder. It puts the drinnks right on front of the stereo, blocking off all access to it. Plus, if anything somehow spills... *FRRRZZZT!* no tunes. Pics: Details? don't ask, it was not the sort of install that lent itself to a "step-by-step," more of a "fly-by-night."

My best friend in high school was something of a mechanical genius. His father was a longtime diesel equipment mechanic, and he and his brothers were all fairly intelligent guys. They did things the right way, they fused things they were supposed to, and they knew they did these things the right way because they all liked to play games with electronic accessories on their cars. Then one day, his younger brothers Camaro burned to the ground from some wiring issue with his stereo. No NASA-style post mortem investigation; no one ever found out EXACTLY what caused the fire. Just an errant spark. Phizinza damn near burned his fantastic brumby to the ground last fall. Just someone try to say he is a drop shy of 110% competent in his fabrication/builder skills. Electricity and gasoline are two things on an automobile NEVER to play games with. Thats what relays were invented for. Granted, there are ways to solve this issue without the relay...... but to do anything else with proper safety engineered into it (meaning fallbacks engineered in place for the inevitable failure of a perfect install) is far more expensive, because you need to get top-quality switches and fusing. All the "high" current wiring for my starter solenoid (all two feet of it) is running a pathway under my hood, away from all other plastic, rubber, and combustible bits. When something goes wrong there (it may take decades longer than I have the car, but it WILL fail) it will only harm itself. Failure is not a possibility; it is inevitable. When that inevitablity is not taken into account, the door to catastrophe is left open. Granted, in this case its only a crack.. but a crack is enough to kill a Camaro. When potential consequences are this dire, miniscule risk becomes amplified in any good engineer's head. I have seen my car beginning to burn; rest assured, it changes your life. I think this is Phiz's brumby: Now, am I being an old maid about it?? Maybe. But this old maid will NOT be getting hot in the near future.

hahaha, 5-700 miles a week. Pizza is my middle name. Daeron Pizza MacCleod. () I started delivering pizzas with a bum starter.. I did a quick and dirty "rebuild" and it lasted three months Subarus respond well to being depended upon. Just keep those tires rotating; on a 2 wheeler, its AMAZING how quickly the fronts wear compared to the rears.

Or, if the problem is determined to be in the ignition switch circuit, you could add a relay to take the switching load off of the 20+ year old ignition switch. Pushbuttons are all well and good, but.... let me put it this way. It took ~20 years for the quality component built by Fuji Heavy Industries to fail in this duty. You could replace it with a cheapo, made in china pushbutton switch... or you could use a quality bosch relay, of a type used millions of times over in the world, and not have to worry about the problem ever again. It's your call; I have yet to hear of any fires caused by installing a pushbutton starter switch. *I* sure wasn't going to be the first though

have you checked the throttle shaft for play? This sounds like it may well be a whacked out carburetor. Just remember, the carb does EVERYTHING in hardware, so if it is not a precise-feeling, well-oiled machine (think like a watch or a fishing reel) then it AINT gonna run right. The Good News? SPFI conversion is not very difficult at all. i LOVE the rims on the sambar,

Jes: You wouldn't happen to have easy access to any Datsun clutch pieces, would you? I am curious to know if the trans input spline is the same... The "mad scientist" in me had some FASCINATING ideas the other day....

I hate automatic transmissions. Thanks skip, for leading the blind. Cracker-boy, if all else fails and you need to lock the wheels up, you know the rope-in-the-cylinder trick, right? I managed to do both of my axles without doing it that way, but if you already have one wheel off then you're gonna need something to lock the engine.

these cars would look SO BADASS with a quad round headlight setup, and a honeycomb grille.... almost like a VW Scirocco. I say you stick it on the east coast railway bound for transfer to West Palm Beach. I'll fix it. Don't worry about anything, I'll send you lots of pictures.

what if the PCV on my car appears to be original, operates freely, and seals well??? I removed mine, thinking it might be giving me problems, and checked it out.. it seems PERFECT. I don't HAVE $20 to "waste" if I don't NEED it...

this a flapper AFM motor, or a hotwire MAF? Do the flapper AFM systems come with a potentiometer-style Throttle Position Sensor, or a bi-switch type Throttle Position Switch? Two kinds of TPS: one is a "volume knob" of sorts attached to the throttle shaft, the older type is simply two switches integrated together; one "switch" is closed at zero to low throttle, and indicates "idle" mode; the other switch is at 75%-full throttle, indicates WOT mode, and no signal indicates "cruising" mode. If the 86 system has the switch-type, then it sounds very suspiciously like an intermittently shorting TPS, and I would replace it to rule it out as a possibility. The failure mode for a potentiometer-style sensor is not QUITE as black-and-white as what you described; its more like a staticky volume knob on an old stereo. Zero EA82T experience here, just trying to brainstorm.

Yes. Just confirmed with an 87 owners manual, there IS a trunk lid "lockout" switch, it is located behind the small square plastic access panel in the trunk for the latching mechanism. It moves from one side towards the center, and it APPEARS that the center position is "locked" but I cannot tell. The angle of the lever should make it obvious which way it need to flip. Sorry I can't scan the little line drawing, but it isn't much help anyhow.

Awesome, to each his own. Sounds like the Soobie just needs her own coffee of sorts. I get to deal with air so humid you can walk through it, and mosquitoes, and the incessant influx of people who didn't get along with anyone where they came from. Florida seems like a great place to move to when you have no motivation to go anywhere specific, and we get alot of what I call "the B-Ark Crew" down here. SO, we each have our slice of Paradise, and pay our tolls. /threadjack off, mouth shut.

I briefly entertained the idea of posting in this thread with some smart aleck comment about some spurious "quirk" my car comes up with when the temps drop "all the way" to 60..... ..but the last time I smirked about living in Paradise to you poor winterbound folks, I got hit with a 34 degree cold front and it HURT. So I'll abstain from being a wise-rump roast.

stop lamp out when lights are on: brake light out out when brakes are on: brake light out IF the bulb is good, then you have a grounding issue; possibly bad sockets, possibly a bad ground wire connection. Search "stop lamp checker," and as you go through the threads that search returns, check the bottom of the page in all of them under the "Similar Threads" feature. There are frequently good threads that the search itself misses, which are brought up by the "similar threads" feature.

well, the more I looked at what data I could lay my hands on, the less applicable it seemed. What I really need would be: 1: flange-to-flange length, compressed and expanded.. basically, could this axle straight fit in between the datsun wheel hub and the datsun differential flange (likely r200, maybe 180; again, the 160s are for the 510 crowd) Joint to joint length, such as is found on the chart shown for the EA series axles, might assist in the possiblity of hobbling together axles using joints from various vehicles (something along those lines is done when an R230 is retrofitted into the SERIOUS monster Z cars..) but in that case, I also need... 2: spline shaft diameter and spline count. Basically, would the subaru shafts fit into the R200 output splines and stub axle companion flange splines. What I REALLY need to do is bring some known Nissan pieces into a JY and try retrofitting on a legacy or something, see what fits, and bring a tape measure.. This concept is likely to take some time to come to fruition; I am dropping pebbles of inquiry now in hopes of an avalanche of discovery later. Any information, help, or discussion is welcomed and appreciated

much goodness, I LOVE the height it sits at... *just* right!

different torches hit different temps, obviously.. but any old blowtorch ought to heat the roll pin up, the difference would only be a matter of how quickly. I am ALL about the nut and bolt method on this one, I don't like dealing with pins inside a vehicle. It is one thing to use a roll pin or a spring pin like this, on something that can be set on a workbench and worked on properly... but not on a driveshaft.

How did I miss THIS opportunity, wow... Yours truly just after pulling the heads off. You can see mine still (im)properly attached there, grinning like an oaf.

Gloyale gets a big loud bell for this one, covered it well. for some reason, when I read this, I was reminded of a classical piece of technician humor... http://www.ch601.org/engines.htm EA82 parts 1 and 2, download FSM goodness if you do not already have it.

the numbers he was throwing around were 3 digits, something like 400 bucks??? http://forum.ecomodder.com/showthread.php?p=2110 ^--Build thread. He started with plastic wrap and cardboard, and made aluminum and coroplast pieces to replace those. Neat work; if it were IDEAL it woulda been a CRX HF, and it could be tidied up a bit.. but this three wheeled sooby stands a great chance, too! The guy who built it couldn't have been thinking ultra fuel economy, or he would have gone with a fivespeed.. but seriously, how much can that weigh? 2000 pounds completed, full, with driver??

You flatter me, I simply have diarrhea of the keyboard my idea on the plugs was one of those hunches you get when you read someone else's problem online.. "He probly did THIS wrong!" The type of thing thats bound to be an inaccurate guess, but you have to shout out anyhow just to rule it out. I can't tell you exactly which pins to hit, but I would definitely be running a D-check on this ECU, and test the TPS values at the ECU plug to verify that the wires are working right. while you are at it, there is a resistance check across the injector itself. Test that, again both at the injector plug, and at the ECU plug. The only way for you to track this down is to methodically run test after test, starting with what seems the most likely. Tedious as that may sound, its really a remarkably simple system with relatively few big areas for trouble to crop up. It sounds like you've held a wrench or six before, so it cannot be too awfully difficult. The multimeter is your best friend with this car! Well, the multimeter, AND the guy who wrote the self-diagnostics on the ECU....

Whiskey-Tango-Foxtrot!?????? You people are laughing at this?!!! (okay the skateboard joke was funny) With a fivespeed, and SPFI, this vehicle could probably achieve 50+ mpg handily, and be quick about it. If a way to retrofit the door handles and front clip off of an XT were to be found... I mean, we are talking potentially lowering the CD to below 0.15, MAYBE even 0.10 flat, and thats UTTERLY BAT************ INSANE!!!!! These angles need to be cleaned up, maybe add some vortex generators along the top.. but SERIOUSLY, folks, this is EXCELLENT backyard engineering. (superficially, at least.) If my windshield frame weren't rotting along with the backside, I would SERIOUSLY consider doing this to my car... drop an EA81 longblock in, power it via LPG, and have a GL-7.5 Want a great read on someone building an aerodynamic economy vehicle? (this ones got four wheels, but if you don't like the sooby you probly wont like it...) then clicky. If fuel economy alone isn't enough to inspire you, how about the Ansari Automotive X-prize? 1 gallon of fuel, 100 miles.. 10 million USD!