daeron

take a step back. This is the complete fuel intake manifold. You need the coil, disty, and starter wired up right, and all of this plugged in right, (plus the MAF) and it all runs. I didn't take the time to circle everything, but here we have the fuel injector and IAC plugs right up front, very easy to confuse accidentally. There are also two vacuum solenoids plus the CTS on this piece, as well as the temp gauge sender (i think?) but the IAC and the injector are the two BIG things here. Fuji Heavy Industries gave us a GREAT car...... ..but they DID make it awful easy to confuse the IAC and injector plugs. Make sure each is plugged in, and make sure each is plugged into the right place. Failing that, I would suggest another TPS, although it *could* yet be a sticky or clogged injector, a failed injector (seems unlikely, but that may have been part of your problem to start with?) or a wiring issue that has been brought to fore by the recent work you have done.... Were you able to install the TPS and get resistance readings that corresponded to the throttle opening?? If not, you really need to have a TPS in there that tells the ECU the right thing. Just for the purposes of the thread: It says 6.5, not 8.5 for the spec. your TPS should be OK. The important part here is where it discusses the "2.4KOhm" for WOT... or "about 80% of the resistance between B and D" The TPS does a few things.. first off, it tells the ECU where the gas pedal is, and whether you are accelerating or decelerating. This is the only thing that tells the ECU any of this. It also sends a signal at idle, and the ECU reads that ~2.4KOhm as a Wide Open Throttle signal. In reality, it is nothing more than a simple potentiometer (think volume knob on a guitar amp or old stereo) but the jobs it performs are fairly numerous, and fairly important, for such a simple piece of equipment. If throwing parts at it fails, and everything tests right, then you are left facing a wiring problem. Get someone to crank it while you massage every inch of wire going to every main EFI component you can reach... Try checking the TPS output with your multimeter, but do it down under the steering wheel, at the ECU plug. The TPS could be perfectly fine; if the wires transmitting the signal to the ECU are buggered, the signal will be buggered. HTH, sorry it was such a long post.

I wanted to post this in the older gen, and also in the newer gen forum.... No telling how much from a newer gen vehicle might actually have potential to be direct bolt-in; this MIGHT even lead to a simple source for rear disc brakes for the 240-280Z. I have access to THIS info about the EA series front axles... but no info about ANY rear axles. I am investigating the possibilities of parts interchange between Sooby and Datsun, specifically, searching for a junkyard source of parts for conversion of the U-joint style halfshafts on the Z and 510, to CV joints. The differentials used swap back and forth from Subaru to Nissan all day, even though most datsuns need more than the R-160 that is FAR and away the most common in Subaru Land. The actual axles themselves are quite likely easily sourced out of a Nissan, if the other parts needed (companion flanges, diff output flanges, etc) might be pulled from a 4wd ea82 or leggy.. BUT, I need data!! Overall axle length, spline count, bolt patterns on flanges, etc! ANY data is welcome, as I have no clue where to begin on this. Mods, I wanted to throw this into newer gen and older gen forums to get some attention before it landed in the retrofit forum. If you want to merge the threads after a couple of days, feel free.. but if its at all possible, I would appreciate letting them sit in the forums where they were planted for a day or two first. Use THIS lead-in if you merge them, please.

I wanted to post this in the older gen, and also in the newer gen forum.... I have access to THIS info about the front axles... but no info about the rear axles. I am investigating the possibilities of parts interchange between Sooby and Datsun, specifically, searching for a junkyard source of parts for conversion of the U-joint style halfshafts on the Z and 510, to CV joints. The differentials used swap back and forth from Subaru to Nissan all day, even though most datsuns need more than the R-160 that is FAR and away the most common in Subaru Land. The actual axles themselves are quite likely easily sourced out of a Nissan, if the other parts needed (companion flanges, diff output flanges, etc) might be pulled from a 4wd ea82 or leggy.. BUT, I need data!! Overall axle length, spline count, bolt patterns on flanges, etc! ANY data is welcome, as I have no clue where to begin on this. Mods, I wanted to throw this into newer gen and older gen forums to get some attention before it landed in the retrofit forum. If you want to merge the threads after a couple of days, feel free.. but if its at all possible, I would appreciate letting them sit in the forums where they were planted for a day or two first.

Ach, I cannot edit my original post?!! its only been.. almost a year, eek. I was fundamentally WRONG regarding the foglight setup!! Terminal 87A is NOT an "auxiliary output" and I can only imagine that I presumed that based simply on the alphanumeric designation. Terminal 87A gets powered when the relay is turned OFF. I edited the picture I drew so that it would accurately reflect reality.. and Fuji have mercy on my soul, I hope nobody had any disasters due to my clumsy assumption... If a mod could kindly stick that big blue comment there, somewhere in my section about the foglights, I would greatly appreciate it

Congratulations USMB!!! You caught me. My HybridZ friends jumped on that inaccuracy as soon as i published that drawring over there. It took "us folk" over here six months to finally call me out, and make me get off my lazy butt. I am editing the image to reflect the info I now know to be true; namely, that post 87A outputs power when the relay is turned OFF. My apologies for my misconception, but SINCERE apologies for my laziness in not fixing that six months ago when I was first schooled on this skip, thx for the heads up.

bah, I thought it was probably useless. I wish I had thought of this before christmas, this would have been a perfect gift to ask for. I guess I had to talk it out to realize how pointless it is to wish I could put the junkyards to work for me on this one.

but all I need is a box with a wire going to the driver door, and a remote to tell that box "lock/unlock" right??? I am wondering how cheaply I may be able to source a replacement remote control. As much as anything else, this is a totally superfluous thing I can't justify spending $50 on right now, and I thought I would keep my eyes peeled... I KNOW I have found vehicles with a spare remote in them in the past. People aren't the most intelligent down here.. I realize that Dumb People are Everywhere, but we get more than our fair share down here in the Sunshine State. "Murray!! We're droiving too FAST, slow DA-OWN, awl we need is sum Bay-guhls!!!"

fixed your post

..to give me a remote control thingy to lock and unlock my car? The GL-10 already has the fully functioning factory power lock system, so all I would need would be the radio equipment and maybe one solenoid, or some way to tap into the factory signaling.. but, I have never actually played with these types of mechanisms before so I don't really know the specific "want list" of parts, and whether I might be able to JY/scrap them together. The Humble Rustbucket has gotten opened up by strangers and rummaged through, and I have lost my radar detector, my mag-lite, and my CD book to two different individuals because I have left it unlocked at the wrong times... and my key isn't the greatest fit in the driver door, so this is a band-aid I have been considering... any help or thoughts would be appreciated.

my 75 datsun will not let the door lock, unless the door is completely closed. That means you are either inside pressing the thing down, or outside with the key, with the door shut. You *could* theoretically still lock the keys in the car, by opening the hatch, locking the hatch button, throwing the keys inside, then closing the hatch..

Now this has me thinking that somehow, a datsun transmission might be made to mate with one of our engines... I have to look at some things. Hmm. EDIT Would anyone have handy, or be able to take measurements between bellhousing bolts for the EA82 engine/trans matchup? Or the EJ, for that matter.. I am having frightening thoughts and making discoveries that only fan the flames.....

Cougar, I think you have asked me to try this same test three or four times for the benefit of others, and I have to confess that my understanding (grokking, if you will) of the subtler bits of distributor ignition systems is NOT the fullest.... I cannot explain it, but something fails to click in my head. However, it seems that many of us are plagued by intermittent or "sleeper" CAS codes in D-check mode, and I am very interested in the outcome of this issue as well... I have an odd, zero-throttle-to-full-throttle hesitation below 3K RPM that I cannot believe is just the natural cycling of the engine. My equipment is limited, but if any specific testing can be dictated to me (what wires, what to check for, when) I am more than willing to try it with a few different multimeters, from cheapo DVMs to 2 or 3 different brands of expensive DVMs... and possibly an analog meter as well. Dictate the testing, and I will do my best to replicate for data purposes. OP: Good luck, can't really help you directly. The FSM download was just a link I keep handy. It is absurdly difficult to find that link, until you have downloaded it

http://ch601.org/engines.htm scroll down, find EA82 part1 and part2, download, and enjoy a chunk of FSM goodness.

Lucky!!!!

locked center differential. It is 4 wheel drive, not all wheel drive. You can't drive it in 4x4 on dry pavement. You should also make sure that all four tires are a matching set, same size and tread left, or you can experience issues. Some EA82s came with limited slip center differentials, (AWD) but those were mostly XT6s and RXs, if I am not mistaken.

ROMAFLOL when I saw the pics that came after that I almost said out loud "it sure as hell DOES, doesn't it?!!!!"

NICE! Would you be interested in retrofitting quad round headlights onto it?

WELL WORTH spending less than a hundred bucks on a years worth of peace of mind in buying AAA platinum just for the "just-in-case" on this trip. Bring spare fuel pump, timing belts, maybe a spare axle and a fullsize spare tire, an air pump, I would drain, flush with water, and fill the rad up with antifreeze before leaving, and run some sea foam through the gas tank. Maybe even change the oil. Might not hurt to have any spare coolant hose you have around in the car.. but GD's comments truly say it all. Don't forget, AAA can tow you directly to a U-haul with a car dolly, too....

blah, sorry for the can of worms. :-\ Good to see you came to the same lackluster conclusion as the rest of us :-p "just leave it"

for the record, an 89 hatch, that is actually a "hatch" is not a very common thing. Many many people inadvertently refer to the three door EA82 coupe as a "hatch" and given your late model year, it will be very easy (in the future) for anyone to presume you mean "coupe" instead of "hatch" just because of the 89 model year. In future posts, if you are having problems, it might be wise to clarify that you do, indeed, have the ea81 powered hatch in some subtle way, and not the EA82. I make this comment to illustrate exactly why they didnt print FSMs for the varying model years after 84.. they hardly imported any of them. Take care of that 'Roo!

answer: not much, and its at the cost of the 250K+ mile reliability of your engine. You would almost HAVE to use the turbo block because its lower compression. You would have to switch computers, wiring, exhaust, i think even the engine crossmember. The swap from a turbo car into a factory NA car is not AWFUL hard... but it is much simpler when you have both cars side by side in your yard, and won't get nickel-and-dimed to death by the boneyard. You had a bad experience with one EJ series engine. (how did you spend thousands on it before sending it to the bottom of a lake?) Many many people here have sucessfully pulled junkyard engines out and installed them straight into their cars without a problem, but problems do occur. That doesn't mean its a curse.. most of us (even we OHC fans) agree that the EA82 is no prize of a motor, and that the EJ was proof of lessons well learned through failures on the EA82. I mean, what kind of engine do you have in your OBX? The same engine series that was started in 1990 with the first legacy.. EJ. It's won WRC, and logged countless miles for thousands of people... it really is a rather highly regarded engine as these things go. This topic has been beaten to death 23543489089734 million times, and most everyone winds up either leaving it alone, or swapping in an EJ. A handful have tried the high comp turbo for a while (until gaskets or something else blew) and one or two have sucessfully replaced an EA82 with an ER27.. but its NUTSO hard, and Loyale2.7Turbo has never really managed to get his car well-cooled enough to consider turbocharging it to match his name. I don't know about you, but I like having my temp needle stay below halfway 99% of the time. For an EJ swap, the only thing that you need to make the transmission line up perfectly, is an adapter plate that take up an extra inch or so between the EJ engine bolted into your car, and your current transmission (which you would almost certainly want to keep.)

If that is the worst that she ever calls you, you must be doing something right

submitted to the USRM. We gotta do that part ourselves Thanks for the reference, Skip!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=688783#post688783

ho ho ho. Personally, I cant BELIEVE how much that Imp wagon resembles the hatches and older gen (pre-ea82) wagons, when its "sitting up right" like that. Nice montage.