daeron

That is like, my dream American Iron motor.... Drop that engine into an early Mustang and you've got me hook, line and sinker.

well, the overwhelming consensus seems to be that I very very likely am 180* or one tooth off.. while I highly doubted that during assembly, rest assured I will examine the matter soon. Both axles are coming back off for a complete axle and bearing re grease and boot treatment within the foreseeable future, and I will make sure they are on right after that. If I still need to use the double-nutted machine screw, then I will; that measure seemed at least as reliable, if not moreso, than the roll pin (providing I eyeball it every 10K miles or so...) Thanks for the feedback (even if it DID make me feel like i may have made a dumb mistake after crowing my "right"ness) :-p

Nor do they tell you that if the entire population of the globe right now, taken at a round seven billion, would fit into a box 1/2 mile on a side. Sheer body volume, taken a given average body mass of 180 pounds, density roughly equivalent to water, each body takes up 3 cubic feet. Translate that to cubic miles, and you get just over 1/8 cubic mile. Minimizing numbers to make things sound smaller is not scientific thought either, man. I told my dad about this discussion today and the metaphor I used as that of Alcoholics Anonymous... They help people with seemingly insurmountable problems, and what is the first thing they say? "One day at a time..." I am the kind of man who will take every straw I can off of the camel's back, because that poor bugger is loaded down by about 6x10^234098304895 straws, and he doesn't need mine. Personally, I think it is conceit to think that the continuing impact of the growing population could do anything BUT impact, and I find it dangerous to consider anything else. Population increase and longevity increase despite all this "poisoning" is a direct result of the trillion dollar pharmaceutical industry, not proof that we aren't damaging anything. I wish I had the data (and remembered the trig functions necessary to calculate) the total number of "man-years" lived by the entire human population of the last 150 years, and could go back to compare how far back in history we would need to reach to equal the "man-years" lived in the past 150. IE, compare the 1850-present day period to the XXXX-1850 period and find out the difference between XXXX and 1850... The growth of our population is the point which makes the argument that much more urgent, NOT a proof that the impact is negligible. The only television I watch is comedy, sheer entertainment. Not even mindless, because true comedy requires attention to appreciate (thank you seth green ) The "crackpot minority" scientific teams are the ones funded by the polluters and those who benefit from continued laxity.. simply paying attention to the names of the groups releasing studies, and correlating those to "think-tanks" and the like can show that fairly clearly, if not quite concretely. The vast majority of sober minded scientists HAVE in fact, agreed that the time-plot of the data thus far collected is very short, and that the data are not set in stone yet.... BUT, the trends are so ALARMINGLY against our favor, that quite frankly IF the "doomsayers" are right, we haven't got any time to waste.. and if we are wrong, then we would HAPPILY taste our own feet from safe ground, then take the chance of grimly watching our opponents taste theirs, taking shallow solace in the fact that we were right. It is a question of risk. I say again, cover your rump roast.

..Yah?? It looked great, and I looked at the peak/valley alignment four times before I committed.... I will bear these facts in mind when I go to regrease these axles and the bearings... I still have two good roll pins, and a supply of more is easily had at the JY. I gotta go back tomorrow anyhow with my dad, I found a 3000GT and my mom's P/S window regulator went out a month ago... someones been scouring the yards and snagging them out as soon as they drop ($100+ used on ebay) so we don't have much choice. In the meantime, I nailed it, and it seems OK for now. It goes without saying that I will double check the nail when I re tighten the castle nut after tomorrow night's shift. In my defense, though, all four roll pins (two on my car, and two different donor cars) were rather difficult to remove, all the way to the end.. so even if I am wrong, I have a decent excuse. pics of CV joint coming later tonight, if i can get a decent camera.. might have to wait until tomorrow.

well, in that case, im not gonna bother ever applying the brake when I shift into and out of drive or reverse. I mean, each time, its only one minute fraction of the wear that my transmission and CV joints can handle, probably less than .000825%. Unsubscribed.

not to be rude, but no, i dont. I eyeballed straight through the hole and its lined up just right. If you look at the DOJ spline you can see that one hole goes straight through a peak, and the other hole straight through a valley (odd number spline count) and its easy to line it up either dead on, or off by one spline, without fighting it. I just punched the stupid pin out, put a nail in there, and bent it over. It will work for now.. my box O' screws is at a friends house or I would have simply found a way to use the same kind of machine screw and double nutted it again, that worked GREAT last time because the machine screw in question filled the hole just about perfectly. Anyhow, shes back together and driving fine. Next stop: Governor rehab and an ATF flush, then install the PCV recall kit i picked up at the JY today and double check my TPS. My axle donor car had already had the alt/AC compressor removed, so pulling the TPS off of it as a spare was a no-brainer, and I needed a couple of screws with good heads on them anyhow.

1: As noted "onna these days, alice..." 2: nah, the justy is the son sired by the postman (suzuki) while Daddy was away at a race weekend. Regarding the difference in turn radius: IMHO once you get closer to the ragged edges, every little bit makes MUCH MORE of a difference. City driver here, lots of awful parking jobs to cope with.. the GL10 I never think twice, if the car can fit in the spot, then I can get into it without making a three point. Again, I've never driven a leggy... but the GL-10 is easier to park than my brother's CRX. To me, that says alot. OP: I shied away from saying EJ swap just to avoid intimidating you; sounds like I was mis-shapen in my impression of your attitude towards your ride. Rock on.

Those splines are on the DOJ on the tranny end, not the hub end. Basically exactly what I did, except I used a combination of a 24 mm wrench, and a claw hammer, and between those two "convincing" tools I managed to eek it out far enough that I could engage the threads with the hub ON, and it was smooth sailing from there. I just can NOT, for the life of me, remember how I got this on the other side... I want to say I found a way to bang the axle in from the tranny side somehow, but that seems absurd! I know it was tricky, but on THIS side it simply was NOT lining up right, on top of everything else. Once I got the hub off, I could see the bearings and spacer, and managed to line it up and get it in. The annoying part is, I just installed new front brake pads two days ago... Wish I'da had time to snag the axle THEN. O well, extra night off. Maybe I can find someone to keep me company, keep the night from being a total loss. Anyhow, back to buggering my roll pin.

stupid roll pin. Im punching it the right way, pin placed in on dimpled side.. in fact, the pin i am hammering right now never even left the axle i am installing. I had this same issue on the other side; the axle is pinned, and the pin is stuck about halfway in. When I did the other side, both the pin from my car and the donor car pin got bent before they went all the way through the output shaft and back into the DOJ housing on the other side... What I did THEN was simply install a machine screw and double nut it. With the cat in the way, i cannot DO that. As it stands right now, the roll pin is engaged in the tranny output shaft. theres a bit more than an inch sticking out. That inch or so doesnt seem to interfere with anything as i rotate the wheel now, but who knows what will happen under load. I dunno, im venting as much as anything else.. step inside, grab a cigarette, take a break, and regroup. The rest of everythings back together, except for the final torque on the castle nut and the cotter pin. oh, and a question... the CV joint (outer) on the axle I am installing is kinda tough to move through its range of motion. Good thing, or bad thing? hopefully someday soon I will be taking both these axles off, removing the boots, re greasing the joints, re greasing the wheel bearings, and treating the boots with some rubber compound.... SO, if its a crummy axle, I am already planning on removing and re installing it sometime soon anyhow.. 99% of the problems Ive had working on this car were problems with me more than the car.... this time, it was the car treating me like dirt. I don't normally get mad at this car, but I am now. Kinda makes me feel... dirty...

got it. I think i may have been having difficulty engaging the axle into the bearing, or the bearing spacer... in any case, i removed the caliper and rotor and its coming along fine now. Thanks for the thoughts, will update this thread once i get the job done, and eventually with a couple shots of my all-but-grenaded axle... anyone who doubts the power of prayer, doubts what got me home last night

yah, I did.. and even if i didnt, I am not to that point yet. the splines are still about an inch or so shy of even trying to engage.. i cannot get the stub to line up in the hub straight enough to get it any further.... If anyone thinks I am making a dumb mistake, feel free to point it out. the axle is angering me, people trying to help never do.

bugger me. I did the driver side about two months ago... got a JY axle for the P/S today, and im trying to get it installed, and cannot for the life of me get it to begin going into the hub.. its not the pulling through the splines part yet, I simply cant line it up to begin to engage it!! I was TRYING to see if i could get this done and still make it in to work tonight, but thats looks less and less likely. I have the LCA pivot bolt undone, and the sway bar undone.. I tried the T/C rod (or whatever its called, radius rod) but couldnt loosen it... I was going to post a thread about the CV joint carnage, because once I get some photos you wont BELIEVE what I actually drove into my driveway on last night... so I'll post those pics here when I get em.. but in the meantime, any pointers? im friggin beating my knuckles against it and cannot get it to line up and start to go in.

argggghh... I want an XT.

Personally, I think you ought to keep your eye peeled for an EA82 car, and swap the EA81 longblock into it. Quite frankly, the turn radius of this car is what won me over. I personally love the little engine, but have no other subaru experience. I have done timing belts, had to replace the water pump and thermostat and radiator, and naturally after all that, the head gaskets... but, dollars for donuts man.. The thing is SO EASY to work on that its limitations sound much greater in black and white, then they seem with a wrench in your hand. IMHO the brown wagon you linked to may be a bit expensive.. but I am not necessarily saying its overpriced. It sounds to me, like you likely won't REALLY "scratch your itch" with a leggy. It sounds to ME like you really want that dual range, in the lighter, smaller, older vehicle. When you get right down to it, if you have a crate with a spare T belt tensioner, belts, a spare alt, fuel pump, starter?, etc etc and some tools, then you can be fearless. You just have to be willing to fix the car under the evil eye of the significant other, should it happen to break down. 50K mile service interval is not really asking all THAT much on the part of the user. The EA82 is almost unquestionably the red-headed stepchild of Fuji Heavy Industries in the last 30 years. (along with its 3AT ) BUT, put it this way: If Superman and Wonder Woman got together and had a retarded child, that child could probably still whoop some rump roast, right? You might need to wipe his chin once in a while (change a timing belt on a non interference motor, B-F-D) but even the red-headed stepchild has his merits. Oh, and this smiley is for situations like, say, if I inadvertently offend someone with my "retarded child" metaphor. (read: apologize in advance)

Tell all of that to misledxcracker.. he has a GL coupe thats right at 100K and its got evil spirits in the distributor cap, or something... The 3AT is a piece of junk. When they are properly cared for (virtually NO automatics really are) they run tolerably well, but quality issues aside... Any engineer who connects a three speed transmission to a four cylinder car is NUTS. I top out first gear at 37 MPH?!!? Pass the Gearing, please! Now, add to this equation the fact that the 3AT in our EA82s is not exactly the Star of the Subaru production line, AND the fact that "most people" probably would care LESS about maintaining the tranny on an old subaru than might be considered "average..." And you wind up saying "fivespeed swap." The good news is that it isn't a very difficult swap if you can get all the parts. As for this: How much do you want to bet that the axles used were not GCKs, and the intake gaskets used were not Ishino? Car aint worth it. Find the $1500 loyale wagon and bid on it, instead, if you need low mileage.

Then, guess what?? They are NOT street legal!!! They MAY pass through technical loopholes and not get caught, and make it through the tag office, but guess what??? This cornucopian attitude is EXACTLY what causes laws to get clamped down tighter and tighter, and causes the individual to lose more and more freedom, every day. (overtly political sentiments deleted before posting, PM me if you really wanna hear em) Everything is NOT "going to be allright" just because you can justify dumping the cat on your car..... ALL that means is that YOU can justify it! I cannot defend my decision to continue to run with a gutted cat, I can only justify something that I know is wrong. Oh, and high flow cats could also simply utilize a larger surface area of the same honeycomb material as well. As rabid as people have become towards cigarette smokers in this country, I cannot believe the lax attitude towards automotive pollution. It's just like seeing TV tell us what is wrong with our educational system...

The turbo Z-car motors lowered their compression ratio through use of dished pistons; the NA cars had identical CC's on their heads and ran i think 8.5 or 8.8:1. IF, you take the P90 head you mentioned, shave it .080", and throw it on a stock L28 with (late) stock flattop pistons, you wind up in the 10.5: compression ratio range. The early L24 head (casting E31 as opposed to the far more common e88 L24 head) had a combustion chamber shaped and sized almost identical to the P90/79/90A and the Maxima N47 heads. Read: P79/90/90A are all three identical CCs, E31 and N47 from maxima were both very very similar. The Datsun L-series used so many different kinds and shapes of pistons and combustion chambers that there ARE no set and solid rules, and almost anything can be built in a permutation of stock parts. Honestly, if it weren't for the ABSURDLY huge bore on our boxer engines, ALOT of bits would likely be transferable from various datsuns to the subaru world. I have thought long and hard about simply installing an EA82 SPFI system onto one of my uncle's datsun roadsters for fuel economy, and I may be wrong, but I think the greatest difficulty would lie in assembling a distributor from datsun parts and subaru parts that would run the thing. I doubt it would be WORTH messing with, since one could achieve both fuel economy and good power using subaru components controlled by Megasquirt.. BUT, I bet I could do it and make it run surprisingly well. You say hit-atchee, I say hit-otchee, right? Not sure if anything in this post was really relevant to the subaru world, but consider it a clarification of my last post

before you get into machining too much on the heads, you NEED to get a "before" flow test. Flow benches are tools used in the process of sculpting a cylinder head. They have no "absolute" relevance whatsoever. Flow numbers vary from bench to bench, from city to city, from day to day. Elevation, weather, air temp are just three of the WIDELY varying factors that alter the numbers. In short, whatever flow numbers you achieve with this build mean nothing to us, EXCEPT when they are compared to the "stock" flow numbers, as measured by the same person, on the same machine, with as much control on the atmospheric situation as possible. (IE, inside a temp controlled room, try to make sure weather conditions are as close as reasonably possible, etc) All you measure with a flow bench is change, not potential. It is a tool to know the changes that you made to the metal shape are good changes, and not bad ones. Just wanted to make sure that was clear. I hope those valves work out for you!! More importantly, before you go grinding your valve seats out to accept the bigger valves, make sure, via flow testing, that your ports will flow enough to justify it! If you cannot increase the flow through the port enough to justify the bigger valve, then essentially (and I *may* be misconceived on this point) the bigger valve just affords you to use less cam. Did you click through the links I posted in the splitting headache thread?? If not, I could point you towards some posts made regarding datsun L-series cylinder heads from a few VERY knowledgable guys... the information would be pertinent to the subaru world for two reasons: 1, there is some evidence to suggest that nissan had the L-series heads (or some of them anyhow) made by Fuji Heavy, and 2, alot of the info I speak about is applicable to cylinder heads in ANY engine. http://www.grapeaperacing.com i think has several great tech articles as well. Post up here, or PM me, if you want those Z-car thread links.

sorry if I seem like a jerk there :-p I have friends who keep trying to pound the concept of "chucking it all and moving out to colorado with them" into my head. I am fiercely in love with my mosquito-infested swamps, overcrowded beaches, and what little bits of brackish estuary are still left untrammelled to leave... plus I hate the cold. I lived in the mountains in NC from age 4 to age 12, and every year since we moved back down here my bloods gotten thicker.. I now shiver at about 60*, and hate going outside below fifty. I haven't even SEEN the 30's in almost 14 years......... (MAYBE once or twice) Bugging my poor USMB people about the winter is my way of blowing off steam built up by my friends. When *I* chuck it all and get the hell outta dodge, I plan on going SOUTH, not NORTH. Torrid Zone FTW thanks for refreshing my memory.. now that you tell me, I HAVE heard of this happening. Yich.

Sheer, twisted Masochism. I always say that there are three ways to do something: the Right way; the Wrong way, and the Irish way, which is As Bloody Difficult As Humanly Possible. Cue the Cavalier.

what does it do, freeze solid and inflexible? Does the silicone treatment function almost like an anti-freeze treatment? this "winter" thing you people talk about is utterly FASCINATING.....

Hmm. It doesn't LOOK too alarmingly small, but I'm the guy who thought his spark plugs were mighty pretty back in March and April...... Well, it stops good enough. I have had to pump the pedal once ever since I got the car; maybe I need to bleed the brakes properly (didn't realize there was a specific order, and when I did the rears before I joined USMB, I couldn't get that last bit of pedal back) but is it possible that thin rotors could cause something that feels like a hydraulic issue?? In any case, for the time being I am running on skinny rotors... O well, I already knew I was running on at least one that was in need of resurfacing. :-\ At least I know the numbers now. You never know what might be found on a car in the JY.. but rotors are cheap enough. I'll probly search and post again when its time to change the rotors.

sweet! while I may yet be crazy, my thoughts on seeing that photo are NOT evidence of such. Sounds like you were being sarcastic about a crummy camera? if so, I feel for you on that one; those are well framed shots (and the snowy one is GREAT) but it stinks trying to get nice photos like that, then looking at the high res shot and seeing how much nicer it could be...

IF, finding a way to direct warm air winds up being too difficult, this would actually work rather well. Chances are it would be easier to route warm air there instead, but hot water would work just as well.. Especially if you could wrap the little heater coil and the carb both in a "blanket" of sorts. So, No Lame!

Looks GREAT man, can't wait to see it with the ground effects on. What does this car sound like? I can't recall hearing a good, loud-enough exhaust system on an NA engine yet.... In that rear view photo, it almost looks like you've got some camber issues on your passenger side rear wheel.... is that just a photo illusion???? Oh, and make sure you let us know when it gets EJ20 DOHC STI goodness:burnout: