daeron

your mom kicks rump roast! my buddy has turned every innocuous statement made by anyone for the last two years into a "yer mom" joke, and I have picked up the habit.. it makes getting to know new co-workers... interesting to say the least. Ah well, keep 'em on their toes, is what I always say.

thats what happens when you buy an XT6 for your "winter car..." you wind up restoring it to the point where its too NICE for that, and you have to buy a NEW subaru because your old one just wont cut it for a "winter" car.... :-p:-p:-p

I want a real wood woody subaru wagon

You, sir, are a thin, wimpy, emaciated timing belt!! :-p

you are looking at "re clocking" the turbo housings. that might help you in your search. sorry, but thats all the help i've got

this is the post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=677280&postcount=14 this is the photo

it has been done before, i'm 90% positive.. so searching might help. no idea who, where, or when though... but it isn't a new idea, so you may be able to find some tips in the archives or the USRM. Good luck; I cant see myself ever bothering doing something like this, but I can understand why you might want to.

+10 for the normal bit, + a billion for the bold part. restoring a daily driver is an exercise in futility, and you wind up asking yourself why you are sitting here polishing this terd so much, but never revealing the diamond within.... 'Tis better to park and repair, than drive and despair.

MPFI is just a much bigger headache for not very much, if any, gain. The gain is in the turbo system that usually (but not always) goes along with the MPFI system. SPFI is more common for parts, easier to work on, more reliable simply through having fewer components to fail, and above all else cheaper. The swap has been done several times, if not many, and is well documented. This SPFI system is fantastic in its simplicity and functionality. It works well; more modern systems may reap minimal gains but for the simplicity versus performance tradeoff, it is hands down one of the better fuel systems this shadetree has ever worked on.

thanks for replying with some actual knowledge and experience to follow up on the point I brought up. I catch little details like that alot, and hesitate to mention them because I have zero firsthand experience to speak from.... but I try to point it out and open the door for someone who HAS "been there" to make comments I feel may be of assistance... sometimes I wonder if this is just a really well rationalized excuse for post-whoring and talking too much :-\ but you people seem to tolerate me OK, so I can't be doing too much evil.

the black trim pieces on that car look really dark, I have seen many that were pale grey by now. Nice score, what was the final price?

cut and pasted into a jpeg from the 89 fragmentary FSM found here: I thought one would set the flywheel to 20* but I do not understand why A: the book doesnt state that outright in the procedure and B: why the book appears to suggest setting it to 0* on the plate to install it.. I cannot remember right now, does the dizzy rotate a bit as its being inserted or are you supposed to line the mark up to 20*?

He's serious.

Did you get the bottoming tap?? A normal tap is tapered at the end, and won't fully tap out the bottom ~1/4-1/2"(?) of the thread.

Cool.. I just was trying to encourage you to keep up on it even tho its now the DD. I know what a pain it can be to try and restore your daily driver, and I was empathizing.

the funny thing is that I just fixed her Volvo the other day. (theres a pun in there, if you look.)

mine died 45 miles from my home, on an outing with a lady friend, while the sun was going down. I had affirmed to her that my car, old tho it was, was perfectly in good shape, better than hers, to make the simple but fairly long drive to boca... I had her AAA tow me to the discount (advance) auto parts, bought a new alt, and was saying the EXACT same things, bragging about how, even tho yes it broke down, this will take me five minutes. Ten at the outside. She saw and understood, but then I could not for the life of me get the fershluggin T-plug out. The plastic is buggered ALL to hell, i dont think the alt had EVER been removed (definitely original equipment) and I couldnt push the tab.. OTHER THAN the twenty minutes spent trying to unplug the T-plug, the swap took all of five minutes. I didn't get the girl

Unless its a matter of removing the beautiful, but useless NGK's that you beat your head over, tested all wiring and components, swapped components, and tweaked for two or three months over, only to install four rusty nasty NGKs from your datsun that were old when it got sidelined, and havent been fired in three years, only to make the car purr like a kitten. Or, doing something equally stupid only to discover its an easy fix. You know. :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:

+1. Usually if its a heater hose going bad, the metal tubes that the hoses connect to will show rust at the seam, or there will be some rusty staining on the hose where the leak itself is. If its a pinhole leak spraying from one of the heater hoses, then it might not leave much of a rust stain, BUT you can try to rule that out by fishing a laser pointer all around the engine bay when it gets good and hot, and look for steam. Wiggle hoses around, try to loosen any theoretical "pinhole" up and the laser pointer should make it easy to see even a tiny amount of steam, if its pointed in the right spot.

yah srsly, i would chop off my pinky toe (the right one, it has a deformed toenail anyhow. little freak.) to find an AWD XT6 in the junkyard. The only thing I would leave in it would be the engine and powersteering.. Unless the AC components were basically the same. Larger AC would be nice. Wheels, foglights, suspension/brakes/complete drivetrain, seats, steering wheel, heck I might even consider trying the stereo out if it worked, and if we were talking about for my GL-10, i would be looking at trip computer components. (might would do that anyhow.. I wanna see if i can hack one of those to run on an MSed car..... find a way to drive the soob VSS and drop the soob tank sender in, who knows?) Honestly, I would quite frankly try to buy the whole car, IF i could arrange that. can you tell i wanna see an XT6 show up in my junkyard?

doesn't really sound like you NEEDED to park it to do the needed work.. unless you have a problem running around for a little bit with mismatched fenders or something. In that case, just find a good rustoleum or rattlecan match, use a flat or matte finish if needed to more closely math the color of the car, and just give them a quicke 50/50 job. That means that it looks okay, and doesnt stand out, looking from a distance of fifty feet, while the cars moving 50 mph. Good enough for the time being. As for the D/R swap, there are plenty of little buildup tasks that can be done without any downtime on the car; that can be done to make the actual trans swap more of a daylong/weekend thing. Just saying, that DDing it doesn't have to preclude the fender and trans swaps, and most of those tasks can have lots of little bites taken out of them in spare time, leading up to the swap. Using that kind of method simplifies these old car "resto-mod" projects. Course, if you already know that, then I'll go back to my little corner and shut up :-p

So in the end, you get to be thankful it was a relatively simple stupid intake coolant issue!!! :clap: :clap: :clap: GREAT to hear, TomRhere! good luck with the JB. Ever think about finding a copper pipe plug with a square head on it, saw off the square part, and maybe try brazing the sqaure bit in? or did i make a fool of myself just now for thinking you could braze aluminum and brass together?

THAT'S right, you are overseas right now. If you enjoyed the read that I gave you, then I would recommend either mining the stickies on that website, and skimming topics that might have something of bearing.. Basically go through any subforums you might find something interesting in, and breeze through looking for things to catch your eye.... BUT, if you really don;t have idle web time to do the hours-long browsing it really takes to glean the full effect from the forum, I am more than willing to try and go through at some point and pull out certain other bits that may be vaguely pertinent to the head discussion at least. I am about due for another periodic re-read on everything I read several months back, over there, to review the information covered, so this would be a good first step at doing that anyhow. Since you seemed to appreciate it, I will try to update this thread anytime I come across something that may be of note to the EA head customizer, unless many people think its really too much of a stretch to think that the datsun/soob head similarities are close enough to make the info useful.

Bumpage! I somehow missed this thread, mustve been while I was without telephone/internet earlier this year... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104420 this is a link to a VERY long thread about headwork on the L-6 Nissan motors, and contained within that thread is an ENORMOUS horde of knowledge from a few very very experienced engine builders. I have heard some talk that there is a distinct possibility that the engineering that went into the EA series combustion chambers, was very closely related to the engineering that went into the Nissan motor; FHI and Nissan and Hitachi have ALL been making lots of subcomponents for each other in the past. I know nothing of the factual CONCRETE-ness of this, but its been bandied about and I sure see alot of similarities between some of the cL-6 combustion chambers and the EA. Anyhow, thats my disclaimer as to why this is relevant to subaru people... Now, in that thread, read post fifteen. BRAAP is the poster's name. TonyD and johnc and a few others are also among the true wise men of that very wise place, just FYI. The rest is rigamarole that is essentially tangential to the soob-world, but from post fifteen (and likely more later in the thread, I didn't review the entire thing) There is ALOT of good head designing information in some threads over there (mostly what has been stickied in the "L-series" subforum) and ALOT of it is very very applicable to our own heads, at least in terms of combustion chamber design, and in a more theoretical way the port flow stuff. Skim through most of it to find the meaty nuggets of knowledge, backtrack to read the posts where questions were asked if needs be, and sponge up some knowledge. I would KILL to be in a position to start working on a cylinder head for my datsun, just so I could start getting my hands dirty and cut up on this subject and have some actual firsthand experience! Seeing pictures of things like this only teaches me so much; I need to be able to handle it and see things in person to REALLY grok the full four dimensional machine that the cylinder head and bottom end wind up forming in the end.... Anyhow, if I dug this up, and wrote a novel, just linking people to more novels that they won't read, I apologize.. but, as I said, there is experience and knowledge to be gleaned for those who want. Oh yah, any updates? :Flame:

You bought a new car. Your License to Weld has Been Revoked.