Buick350X

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went and tried that Fuelly, got the same results. this is my wagon. You can guess that I don't drive like a granny 1980 Buick Electra Estate Wagon 350X Dave Ray custom built dizzy -MSD-6AL T/A Stage1 aluminum intake Pro built carb by National Hurst V-Matic 2 floor shifter PAE Built TH350 {3.08 1st, 5 clutch, 2200 stall } '75' 8.875"MP POSI Dual CherryBomb Glass Packs

Fuel Log Apps IM using FuelLog https://market.android.com/details?id=ch.simonmorgenthaler.fuellog&hl=en Anyone else using one like it? odd how it prefers full fill ups only, I never goto E or fill to F, so its always a partial fill up. After entering 3 months of receipts that I write down mileage on. Says im getting 14.49 MPG in my wagon. Allot better then the 11-12 it should be getting in stock config, but the way the gas needle moves at times, you would think it got 4-5 MPG.

So I could just weld the F'ed up O2 hole in cat shut, then weld a non fouler to the section of new pipe and it will shut the CEL off got a part number for said fouler adapter?

explain plz???

Thanks, I gotta do something about the noise n finish the exhaust. ears for the pipe junction by the last cat totally rusted away and those two pipes at that junction fit like a square peg in a round hole, even the 02 sensor was gone, wire for it were there but porcine and metal socket, everything had rusted away. And its not like the wires broke lose, the 02 sensor disintegrated around them. Just a hole in the cat and the 2 wires.

Anyone got a real pic of the front of the engine to clue me in better on where IM looking for the idler n belt. I can tell you the book isn't much help as on the real car you can't see much from the top, why I assumed it had just one belt for all.

00 Sub Forest AC making noise off [winter here, turn it on, same noise] Sounds like a PS pump on a older GM car when its low on fluid, noise goes up n down with RPM, kinda tappers off once running for a while. been doing it for quiet a while also but my Mom just drive things and ignores any noises. [fixing the exhaust leak today made the noise stand out loud and clear] Is this common, around 170,000 miles on the clock. Is there an easy way out or $5-700 for a new AC unit? What all cars can I get a unit from? Could we go to a smaller belt maybe and ditch the AC?

A good general read Fuel Economy, Engine Efficiency & Power http://www.viragotech.com/fixit/FuelEconomyEngineEfficiencyPower.html

Geese so many post and not one jokster??? Code 420 Its your Subaru telling you to pull over and smoke another one ------- Our bank 3 I think last cat in the line O2 went bad, problem was the threads pulled out of the cat, which meant a new cat or rigged, got it in, would not tighten, put a tack with a welder to ground it and keep it in place, JB weld around to seal it. worked ok. But needs changed again Used a cheap knock off $20 uni one and it didn't last long.

I would think it would be best to make it stackable, you get the base standard, then buy the stackable spacers as needed to adjust height. you would want a 1/2" and a 3/8" spacer

clogged or stuck PCV, building pressure in the engine forcing oil out where it can?

If its cold enough for a block heater, you also want a battery heater.

Have played with 205/70s in 215/65s as of late Id say if you don't want to change size much but change looks, gets some 225/60/15s using a tire size calc they are not much different then [205/70/15 and 215/65/15], but looks wise on a car they look like they are twice as wide and meaner then both of those. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalcold.html just pulled off 205/70s to run 225/60/15 Fuzion HRIs [on my RWD Buick wagon] and they grip like no bodies business in rain and snow and look much nicer. Narley bite for an all weather performance tire, which are usually near bald new. [Tread pattern on them looks 3 times better in person.]

Not a bad idea, but id say the whole problem is on our Forest the one cat is right under it. [right front, pass side] Which I bet caused the original to break down and crack [heat]. I then tried to do a home made split boot, some guy said that is what he does at his shop. Buy a new boot, slice it open, install and glue it back together with some special black goop. Didn't work great. One thing that does help keep it 95% closed is I put a zip ties all down it, in the valley of the boot. But when the cut side rotates on top, it flexes open, just enough to shoot out the grease onto the cat, so it smells good. I just wasn't going to pull it all apart to change just the boot, more cost effective / easier [lazy] to wait for the CV joint to go bad

DITTO We have had a torn boot on the front of our Sub for a good 5 years now, has yet to make any noise. Waiting for the axle to fail, reman one is only $100 or so and it would cost more then that just to take it all apart and change the boot. Only thing I do is once a year I squirt a bunch of grease into the hole, though most of it flings back out

I fear the reason behind that question Yes married and not handy in the shop. I can PM you more info if you want to know more about the things I do.

Pure genius, if you are in need of an apprentice / slave long as I learn something I have no problem working for fun BS’in in the garage. I got one of them screwed up brains where I only learn by doing. Probably 75% prepared for the things you do but lets say 50% to be safe, hours are flexible as I do what you would probably call hack work making [steel] parts for motorcycles no ones makes and do small parts powder coating. Which is enough to keep me off the street and out of trouble but not enough to have more then a 10x10 shed as a workshop. Though I have a good eye, allot of times all I have is a pic off the Internet to copy a part. Only helped build a trans adapter once and did mostly muscle work and it would be hack work also, but buddy wanted more gears so we put two cheap 4 speeds end to end in his Ford truck, some endput and input parts, a few junk clutch center and a $100 welder, but the sucker was strong, was neat shifting gears in reverse. [We did roofing then and wanted a cheap way to crawl around new construction houses safely, to use the truck as our starting platform when it was a mud pit.] I stay out in Oregon by Maumee Bay State Park right now.

Well dealerdirectparts.com was the cheapest price, $112 with free fedex ground, 12 month 12,000miles warranty.

Took a look at it and the connector must be inside the car. The wire form the sensors run outs the drum, up the LCA, then into the floor. Id almost expect the connector to be under the car.

Gonna hafta play with it, dealers say its $170 online from dealer direct parts, its $112, still not great.

Well speak up louder , whole point of this thread was the make it simple, you just keep refering to a pdf file. And yes so far this thread is all wrong, plug location and how to pull codes. only ground pin 6, I get code 27 rear left ABS sensor, but no auto part site list it, I hope its not dealer $$$ only parts???

The direction in the first post. plug the leads into 3 and 6 have tried it with the green plug still connected and un-done, as they are un-done in the first pic. But Im not getting any codes. It goes off and back on once and thats it, just sits there.

Any clues or hints why Im not getting any flash codes form the ABS even though the light is on???? Goes off then back on once and thats its.

A 1/4 difference would mean bald tires. all 4 are brand new 205/70/15 stock size, only reason they are different brand is by chance. I tried 205s on my Buick wagon and didn't like them, ran to low in the front, so they came right off. so when the Sub needed tires we already had 2 new ones ready for it, but could not get 2 more of the same brand, so we picked up 2 Yoks for the rear. That is not it. But side to side you should never miss match brands of the same size, new or not. front to back means nothing if they are new.