slideshow86

It was snowing like crazy and I was under a 10x10 pop up tent when replacing the intake manifold and valve cover gaskets. When I dropped the new T-stat in. Im almost 100% sure it had a jiggler, I thought they all did? Come to think of it, I think it was gurgleing sometimes before (just not all the time). It only happened for a few mins and never gave me any trouble. I dont lose any coolant, but I can hear the rad cap making funny noises. Sounds like its faulty.. It doesnt spit any out or suck any into the system? (When I did the full service, I fully cleaned the over flow tank and hoses) Also- It is ONLY boiling under the t-stat and no where else in the system. When I shoot that spot with the pyrometer its 190deg. If I squeeze a rad hose it stops boiling. Thats what tells me its a trapped air bubble. Im going to try a new rad cap, I was thinkin of this. It is about a year old, it came on the dual core radiator I got from the custom rad shop by my work. Ill try an OEM rad cap and t-stat. The Beast I drive- What were the issues you were having prior to drilling the t-stat. What did it change?

Hello all, I havent been around for the summer. Figured I would drop in and say hello with an issue. Just re-sealed and fully serviced the GL-10 and noticed the heater wasnt working so well. I hooked up the heater core to a hose and flushed it both ways a bunch. Then I used one of those things that attach to the radiator to make it the highest point of the system. I proceded to bleed the crap out of the system. I got what seems to be all the air out of the system. I didnt use an oem T-stat ( I know I know) but using a hand held pyrometer, it is the same temp before and after the t-stat. My after market temp guage (mounted in the car) stays constant at temp and all seems just as it should. Well after a few weeks I ended up parking in a very quiet area and noticed a faint bubbling coming from under the hood. After futher diagnosis, it seems to be coming from under the T-stat. Once the system is cool, I open the rad cap and the system is totally full, same with the over flow tank. I didnt have access to the rad burping adaptor, so I drove the front wheels up on some cinder blocks and burped it again. I didnt get a single bubble from the system? (I left it up on the cinder blocks to cool and it didnt bubble? WTF?) I am going to go try it again, but being that there wasnt a single bubble that came out, I didnt change anything. I am also wondering if since the out side tems are soo cold right now and my car will only warm up to about 180-182 and my t-stat is a 185. Is my problem caused by my t-stat being only partially open? Mods. -New napa brand T-stat 185deg (at warmest I can get the car is 180-182 deg with the ambient temps out side right now) -water pump has 40k -Most all gaskets new (cooling system doenst leak a drop) -New dual core radiator I did a search but came up with nothing.. Any ideas?

Well shoot, because of the weather my fiance and I didnt get a chance to see her side of the family for Xmas and that is the day we have to go see them. WHAT A BUMMER... Let us know how it is... and when the next one is :-\

Merry XMAS everyone.... Long time no speak! Man I have been busy.... :-\ I know Reiter is along way for me, but I have to make it up there and meet some of you guys. Winter seems to me my USMB surfing time, So you should see some more of me for a bit I pulled my subaru's apart and have been messing with my other cars but finally got the wagon all sealed up, tuned up and ready to go! Shes running like a champ and not leaking anymore! I have a few small things I want to do before some serious wheeling. -Try to figure out a way to set up my muffler, so I have better departure angles (try to hide it somewhere further up, or tucked up tighter to the body) -Raise up the rear end a bit. (I was toying with the idea of zero rake, and It need to be a little high in the rear for squat, on throttle and for better rear clearance) Other than that it just leaves me with a question. When I made my exaust system, I kind of used what I had and didnt change it from when I raised up the car. So the system is the lowest part of the car ( it crosses under the driveshaft and is the lowest part of the car). Does this pose major issues at Reiter? Is there lines available through the trail, that alowes for not bashing the undercarage? I have a 4in body lift and 2in susp lift on 28's. Just wondering as if need be, ill try to fix that too.

WOW this is an old thread! I had receved a $100 brat about 6 months ago. I lifted it and did everything needed to run. After finding out I have to swap eng's or rebuild the one thats in it (its got hydro lifters), I just got to busy. It sits at the end of my driveway just taunting me.......It is insured and licensed, I just want to wheel the damn thing.

Sorry guys, I havent been on in awhile. I am training to be a MSF instructor. I have had no free time in along time. I have been riding my bike's everyday to save gas and money and havent even driving my cars in awhile, I am actually going to go fire them all up today and let them warm up... Hope to see ya guys soon...

Ok so I went over there and pulled the heads off that engine. We know nothing about the engine, except it had 160k. When I pulled it apart the head gaskets look to be new (maybe a possible attempt to replace the head gaskets?) and the water jackets seemed to have a bunch of gasket sealent stuff in there. There was a bunch of gunk and rust and nastyness in the #4 cylinder too. The drivers side intake tube to header was full of water, somthing was letting water in. Heres what I got today. Now I just need to figure out if there bad or what to do with them Oh how I do this whole thing the correct way.... P.s. THANKS MARK! These coulndt be any closer! I had to borrow these crates. Ill bring them back tomorrow:rolleyes: Heres my box of stuff to try.... heres the pass side #3 looks good. heres both, theres some of the nastyness from the #4 cyl

Ya thats tru. It makes perfect sence. I need a manual, Never done this before. I have a hydro eng that was ran out of either water or oil? (some dumb lady) and its at a friends house. I just dont know if the damage done are to parts I may need. Theres only one way to find out! Plus by pulling that head, It will show me what I need to take apart on mine. Where are you buying your headgaskets and head studs? And if all else fails. Ill get an ea82...... I just wish I had money for the ea82 to ej22t wiring harness, ecu, then get AA's adaptor,, redrilled flywheel, a 5sp d/r, FANCY clutch, Oh yea ej22t and drop that whole mess in a cherry ea82t gl10 wagon (parts car) Lift it 8-10in (which its already going to get) on my custom frame and Make that cherry wagon, not so cherry by beating the snot out of it. Soon......Soon.... Thanks Jess

Oh ya it gets louder. The tick is soo freakkin loud! I was thinking exhaust valve on #3 too. The PO said it ticked really bad. When he got it the PO said it ticked really bad. I just dont know if these 2 guys are retards or just dont know any better? Or if this thing is absolutely beat to hell. One thing, when I got it. It was more caked with mud than I have ever gotten my wagon. Well the under carrage any way. Every mount was shot and both front axles were toast. Both front tow hooks were smashed flat (somehow they spared the oil pan, even w/o the skid plate) So Im thinkin beat. Looks like I have to figure out how to inspect this thing propperly?

Good point. I drove it over to someones house and they were using the tester. All I remember was him saying. Man, oh man, ya you have no compression dude. But I remember hearing a -whhhssst- when he pulled off the tester, so there was compression, some. I think it was like 35 or somthing with the other 3 plugs still in. He has one of those old school testers that have a rubber thing that you hold up to the sparkplug hole, but hay, its better than mine. We did try to drop some oil in the cyl and it didnt change it a bit. Jess

-Well I had a long post, but somehow deleted it :-\ , heres the brief version- I pulled compression on #3 cyl, to find it was very low (to find out later, I may have pulled compression incorrectly) I had put all new plugs in it and had to run it long enough to show signs of what its doing. #3 spark plug has no signs that that cyl is firing, it still looks brand new. It is fuel soaked and it I think it is getting spark. ( I am assuming its getting spark, B/c when I had the eng running and pulled the sparkplug off #3 cyl it didnt change note of the engine even a little bit. It did shock the hell out of me though, which makes me think im getting spark) People suggested that I may have a stuck valve. Followed what other said and pulled ATF and Seafoam through the intake. It did do one thing weird. After I got done sucking either fluid in there, It would leak out of the pass side exhaust port. Kinda coming out the gasket and down the manifold. Would this be a stuck exhaust valve in 3? It not being able to close all the way and leaking the fluid? (and compression) Same poor acceleration, It didnt fix it. I didnt re-pull compression though. This was all last resort for just pulling it out for somthing I know works. I just dont have the time or the help to mess with it. I just want it to run. When it runs, I can work on my ej swaps. Either way, this thing has a very loud tick. Almost knock. It gets worse as the enging warms up. My main issue is lack of help. The person helping me works 2 weeks on 2weeks off. I am just trying to trouble shoot this thing by my self and its hard to pull compression and test for spark when its just me. OOps forgot all my links to all the threads going right now for my car http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85550 Weber fixed now timing issues 85 Brat http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=85673 Troubleshooting Ea81 fuel pump http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86206 Help identify my coil...Ea81 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86114 I cant fix my brat http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86318 I need a solid ea81 eng in Washington

I think If I were going carbed. I would get an EA81. I want to go all or nothing. Not knocking the ej carbed. But I just think I can pull it off.

Very sorry guys. My wording is wrong, I didnt know if it was spfi or mpfi. I really dont know much about theses subies, other than what I own. I just started in these ea81 MY cars. I have never seen an ea81T and untill 2months ago, I had never seen under the hood of an ea81 MY. I can get an ej22 crate eng for $500 Looking for a legacy now.

Well, I called all the local eng importers and not one had an ea81 in stock. I was told that once they are gone, they will not order more. One place had one but they wanted 800. I finally foud an importer that had the 3 ea81T's. I have bought many crate eng's and never had issues. If i could, i would just rather take on the whole turbo spfi swap. Infact, im going to start looking into it.

Wow, bad day at work? Thats one way to tell me it has lower compression.

Well on my hunt to find a solid eng for my brat, i happened to come across a few crate eng's. I found a total of 3 EA81T's. I would love to do the spfi turbo swap, But need to get this thing going. I shouldnt have any issues if I bought one of these and pulled the intake and stuff and swapped it out for my carbed stuff, right? What are the major differences between the two? BTW i can get these crate eng's for 400 each, if anyone is interested. Im sure we could get a much better price if we bought all 3. He said he needs them gone.

Right on! PM Sent

Oh cool! im going to have to try this. I squirted a little bit of oil down there to possibly help "seal" up the rings a bit, but it didnt help, not even a little bit. Thants what was making me think rings were not the issue. Is there a name for thisb process, so i can search for it? im just a little unsure about a few things. Thanks for the tip. Jess

Well I really should have checked sooner but I felt like I have no compression on #3 and need and eng really quick to drop in. I am really getting this thing going pretty well. Whos got one laying in there garage, I dont need the intake manifold or anything. Even if its just a runner.

Wouldnt I get white smoke or coolant smell from exhaust and or oil mixing with the water? Even if it was blown its still really ticky. I just want another eng to drop in really quick (like tomorrow night) and go wheeling on saturday at walker with theses guys. On a side note. Ill probly not make it saturday but end up buying a decent running ea81 hatch or wagon (preferbly hatch) yarding the eng out of it for a bit, untill I find out what to swap in. Then give the hatch back its eng. Lift and sell it. (woman says I cant have anymore cars :-\ ) Thanks again GD, your soo much help!

I found out what was wrong with the brat today......#3 cyl has almost no compression. No wonder I coulndt get over 50, I really should have pulled compression sooner but I felt like If anyone has a good running ea81 eng I can get off them for reasonable price (local to western wa) I could possibly still make it to walker?? With 2 guys you could have that eng in and out almost topped off with fluids in an hour. Well I have another trashed hydro eng I am going to pull apart with this one and try to make a good one just for the hell of it and to learn about these eng's and such. I will want to swap somthing in with more power, just dont konw what yet. My goal is still to make it to walker. But not with this eng. I did get alot of things figured out and would like to thank you guys for the help. I feel bad for wasting time over somthing stupid. Somthing I should have done along time ago. Baccaruda- Thanks for the link!

Looking good Scott! Cant wait to hear that thing run!! Will be doing this swap here soon! I really want to see this at walker but dont know if I can make it.

Thanks anyways, alot of this stuff is new news to me too. I have reset the timing almost once a week for over a month, somtimes a few times a day. I dont think timing is my issue anymore, even though it seems like it. I was always under the assumption that if i were a tooth off i wouldnt be able to get it on perfect time. i thought it would either be just a little high or just a little low and I would have to bump it a tooth in either direction to get it on perfect time? Thanks Jess

Well after I started thinking about it, it totally makes sence. Setting it at 8 Makes it 8. Just depends how good you are at setting the rotor straight at a tower. I noticed that too when I shot time it on and was just over 8 btdc. It did/does sound stumbly at 8 and thats why I had bumped it to 10, then 12 and it still didnt run right (it starts to back fire at around 15-16, but I dont know what my jetting sizing is either). I was just checking the timing over a range, because it had actually started. I still think it runs alot better shooting it at 10, but if I have no oil pressure. Might as well run it at what ever timing makes it move..... Im just about to blow this damn eng and drop somthing with at least a little pep in its step....Grrrrr

All I have been doing is warming it up enough to drop the idle down to 800 (8-10 mins, t-stat opens, fan may or may not kick on), then plug vac advance and shoot time. One thing I have noticed. There is no bouncing up and down and guessing in the middle of the bounce when shooting the timing light. Its solid as a rock. 8 deg, 8 deg, 8 deg, 8 deg, You know what Im trying to say? I would love to see some one else look at this thing. Well, yesterday it didnt sound so ticky when I started it up. But, who am I kiding, im just getting used to it and this thing is loud. Also, either the oil pressure and water temp guages dont work or I have issues. Both dont even move.