slideshow86

Welp im running 75/90 gl-5 up front (5sp) For the rear which is lsd, I havent gotten kendal yet but am running 75/90 w/ lsd additave and it seems good.

Ok guys, swapped out my weber for another and it fixed it. Im just going to run the other weber. Could have been jet size, choke, or some other issue. Now I just have a real bad vibration to deal w/. Got new eng and trans mount installed, tire pressures up and front axles arent too bad. Doesnt really feel like a doj vibration. maybe. All I know is I have to get this 4 speed trans out and a 5 speed in quickly! Thanks guys, thanks GD! Jess

Thanks a lot GD!

What are the differences of the hitachi and nippon denso? What would I look for to determine what one originally came in the car? Just wondering, as I am going to meet the guy w/ the dizzy in a few hours and don't want to buy it if it isn't even supposed to be in the car. Thanks Jess EDIT I never got a reply and have no clue how to tell what ORIGIONALLY came in my car, I pushed it back to picking up the dizzy on sunday. All I have is pictures of the new dizzy and dont know how to tell the difference, plus its aftermarket and doesnt say either brand name. Is the nippon denso right or did the p.o swap everything out? I dont konw. Well are all brats 4wd? I know mine is and ive heard that only hitachi came in 4wd. Could this be some of my issue?

Wow! Thanks soo much GD. I have to figure out what to do about my weber.... As far as the dizzy goes, I have 4wd and a nippon-denso dizzy. Don't ask me, just how I got it. Is there a visual difference between the two? I mean could this one im going to look at be correct? Any idea what its doing running the nippon-denso dizzy, cap and rotor? Thanks again Jess

Ok so I tested the voltage at the pump. It is getting 13+ volts when cranking. Which leads me to believe that its either the pump or not having the return line is doing somthing weird? Ill need a fuel pressure guage to know for sure if fuel delivery is my issue then I can narrow it down more. Ive heard its only 1.5-3 lbs of pressure in the lines. That really isnt very many GPM is it? Is is supposed to fill the upper fuel filter up to 3/4? Or is 1/4 full ok ( I know this is a very bad analogy, but I dont have a fuel pressure guage yet and just wondering how full one's fuel filter is that has correct fuel pressure) ? I guess if I were to get it running under very lean conditions. High idle could be achieved and driving (and putting it under any sort of load) it up to half or 3/4 throttle could acount for the bucking and unhappy sounds, eh? I still need to figure out the choke. But all my issues could be around this faulty pump not delivering correct amount of fuel. When my car gets up to temp the flapper door things on the carb want to open all the way up. It wants to die at that point and I have to un-hook it just to make them close enough to run (wish I knew more about carbs ). I was thinking that once warm the choke is alowing more air and my lack of fuel is leaning it out too much to not let it run? I dont want to hurt anything if im warming this thing up to temp, at a really "lean" mixture. I did the test on my dizzy's vac advance and I think its shot. I found one new for $75 and am picking it up this weekend. I sure hope my car was origionally supposed to have a nippo-denso dizzy? (But at a warm state, I should be able to get the rmp's low enough that the vac advance wouldnt operate and I would be able to shoot time right?) But this probably wont fix all my issues. Oh the fun of my $100 brat turned $500(ish) brat already. Thanks for the extended help Skip

Ok that makes a little more sence. ill make up a lead for it before I leave work. I had the return line disconnected from the very beginning and it was only after I replaced the rear filter and rehooked up the fuel pump, that I was getting the half full fuel filter thing. Anyone have any issues with not running the return line? Ok, my confusion. I just put in a regular filter and capped the return line.

Once I jump the fuel pump. do I test voltage of the wires I just jumped (wires that go to the pump) or the wires going to the fpcu? I was told I didn't need to run the return line? I don't know i f I have the right adaptor to hook it up to my weber. Would this cause low pressure? or negative vacuum on the pump? Also, when replacing the rear fuel filter, I thought someone said somewhere there were 3 hoses going into the rear fuel filter? (maybe not?) The rear filter was aftermarket and only had one input and one output. Don't know if this makes a difference. Thanks

Thanks Skip. I have read a lot of posts about fuel issues, most of which are for mpfi or ea82. Having a hard time to find posts regarding my same MY. I don't know if my original setup is an internal vr or external. I know the new one I got is internal VR. I have been using the new alternator since the beginning and the accelerator pump was puttng out fuel so I didn't even look into it. I will try to find out which style I require and will inspect it with the old one. Is there a visual difference between the two? I have 12v on both sides of the coil. The choke is getting keyed power. The front filter used to be 3/4 full and when I noticed the ground wire from the fuel pump had came out of the back of the plug and re-hooked it back up. The pump seemed to pump very weak. If I am not getting full 12v at the pump, when running, it would be the circuit(short)/fpcu(unit, pickup in dizzy or tach signal)/ground( add ground to common ground). If I am getting full 12v threw (fuel pump) plug and the pump is pumping weak (both filters replaced), it would be the pump. I should be more clear, whats the best way to test the fpcu? I ran out of daylight and will test it all out afterwork. Thanks Jess

Ok I have been searching for awhile now with not too much luck. Its soo hard to narrow the search down so I am forced to make a new thread. I have an 85 brat w/ a weber carb. I have no information on how this thing ran before I got it. I have replaced both fuel filters along w/ rebuilding the carb. Here goes. When I replaced the front fuel filter it filled back up to 3/4 full of fuel. Tried to get it running right to no avail. Went and got/replaced the rear filter. Noticed the front fuel filter is now empty (due to cranking all the fuel out of it) The fuel pump stopped pumping. I traced it to the plug and found a broken butt connector. I replaced the plug to the fuel pump but im getting very very low pressure. Once the level drops from half way on the front fuel filter, it becomes just a trickle. I no longer hear the pump working, but never really noticed it before either? Im wondering what the procedure is for testing a fuel pump and/or fpcu. At what times is the fuel pump powered. Does is have 2sec of power at key on then the rest durring cranking/running? Or is it ran off the tach signal? Thanks in advance. Jess

Anyone in the western washington area want to charge me to make my car run?

That was the page I was trying to download it from. It still doesnt work. Thanks

Thanks for any input. I hate that everyone comes on here and has different questions about the same thing and the same people are left to answer it over and over again. Ive read alot of posts where GD has just gone over board to find its somthing simple that "should" not be over looked and this forum is for questions beyond that. I am going to make sure everything I know can be taken care of, will be. If it costs me another $500 before it hits the road. I took today off to take care of it. Ill get back to you guys when I get somewhere. Thanks *EDIT* After posting this I was mad that it was getting the best of me. Found out the reason It stopped running was lack of fuel. I replaced the fuel filter earlier today and noticed tape around the plug to the fuel pump. I went back there to inspect the taped area. I found the plug had been cut off and butt connected back together at one point. One of the butt connectors came out and the fuel pump stopped working. Im wondering if my issue lies in the fuel pump. I dont have a guage just yet and dont know the fuel pressure. I do know, before all these issues, the fuel level in my fuel filter under the hood was at 3/4 full. When I hooked it up. I had to run the car to power the fuel pump. When running the car it really didnt fill the fuel filter at all. Seemed like it was barely pumping. I just went out to take a look and the filter is about half full. Im going to do a search for fuel pump tests.....

At idle it doenst sound the greatest. sometimes it stumbles and backfires in first gear it pulls really nice and sounds good soon as I hit 2nd it vibrates really bad. 3rd is undrivable on anything but flat or downhill road due to vibration under load. Back to first drives great. I have today off and am going to try to get as many parts for it as possible. If I need to just weld up the trans mounts for now, then so-be-it. Ill try running it w/o the choke today.

Ill go pick up the rear filter today. Ill pull the oem one out and match it up w/ a regular one. What type of fuel pressure regulator are you guys using? Also thinking of going msd blaster coil. pros/ cons? Thanks

I am also getting no luck. Dont know why? It just says PDFtown when I try to save it. I dont see weber.pdf? Its just a link pdf town.

Ok well tonight I tried all my tuning at 15btdc at 1k rpm (still cant get the idle low enough) After the eng warmed up. I unhooked the choke. It seemed to run better? Revved it a few times and it didnt stumble. How to you set the choke? I think mine is set wrong. I see the screw to adjust it. What is my objective? With the choke hooked up, I took it out on the main road. 1st revs really nice. Really smooth, no vibration (almost thought I had it fixed). As soon as I shift to 2nd it starts to vibrate very bad ( I dont know what this is, the trans mounts seemed pretty warn and I dont know the status of the axles). I can still accelerate though, enough to get to 3rd. In 3rd, 1/2 throttle, it vibrates much worse than 2nd but wont accelerate. At 1/4 throttle it seems ok. Push in the clutch there is zero vibration. Top speed tonight is 42! WHOOT Keep in mind, I got this thing in pieces and have never actually driven it. I dont know how anything is. Thanks

Ive tried it at 8-12btdc with so many different combonations of idle and mixture. I tried retarding it a little more and it seemed to run better, just backfired when I let off the throttle. No matter what I do it either back fires or stumbles. All of witch have no power. After all the messing with it. I lost the ability to keep constant idle. I will get it ok. Blip the throttle a few times and it drops to like 500rpm and/or dies. Im going to to mess w/ it some more. Got the plates/tabs today so I can road test. p.s. This is the first carb I have ever layed my hands on, let alone ever adjusted/tuned. For the rebuild, the diagram was good so the rebuild went smoothly. Made sure every thing was very very clean. Every thing operates smoothly. I just need to read a book on carbs or somthing? I have no idea about anything about a carb.

Bump Im soo frustrated.

Im pretty sure this is what my jetting is. If this helps?

I was wondering this too. I just did the swap and wanted to know if it would be worth it to keep the ones from open diff as spares. They didnt look different.

Double checked vacuum leaks. Timing must have changed when playing with mixture screw and idle. Reset timing to 10btdc, Im having issues making 100% sure of timing. I cant get it to run smooth enough to stay at 750. Either just over or it will die. Screwing the mixture screw all the way in should lean it out enough to make it die, no?(mine doesnt really do anything screwing it all the way in) I dont really know what im going for when adjusting it, other than I have heard to start at 2 turns out. I guess im just having issues with either timing or jetting or both. I dont know what the carb came off of. I got a redline rebuild kit and installed everything. I used the old jets and installed them as they came out. I dont remember my jet sizes? Damn me.... It seems to idle ok until I throttle on a few times then it will die. During this test drive. It reved much better threw first and better in 2nd, enough so I thought it would push 3rd, but I had to go back to 2nd :-\ Theres just no power.

Would the eng run 180 out?

Well it seemed to run good enough for a test run. I took it out on the back lot. It had alot of hessitation between 1st and 2nd. I stopped and my roommate messed w/ the mixture screw. It was kinda stumbleing on idle. It ran ok just no power, we went over a few things and seems cool up to like 2500 in 1st. Tested 4hi and low and they work. On the way back it woulndt idle. Still lots of hessitation just driving. When I got back I plugged the vac advance and shot time. Now its at like 18deg advance? WTF I just set it to 10deg advance? So I bump it down to 10 and it is really ruff. I just cant get it to idle correctly and theres no power? Im missing somthing. Ive been at this all day. The drivers side motor mount is shot and the eng is rocking bad when stumbling and running ruff. Changing that out tonight when it shows up. (30 mins) Being that I set the rotor at #1 plug at 8deg btdc (not zero), am I to be shooting time for 0? +2 to go to 10btdc and +4 to go to 12btdc? OR shoot for 8-12btdc on the flywheel like normal? It runs too ruff to get it down to 750. It was stable before the test run now I cant get it under control. Im overthinking this......

Thanks again. Goin to get gas and drive it on the back 40. I didnt make it down to get tabs for the damn thing yesterday so it cant see pavement till monday. Heres a quick video, idles great, good throttle response and no dieseling on shut off.