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Thanks Bucky. I love my wagon Thanks Mark. I would have done the same thing. We were wondering where to put them.

My gl-10 was just doing this too. Still isnt 100% fixed but hassent actually "cut out" again, sure does feel like it wants to but hasent. It seems mine is related to boost, If I stay in the boost, climbing a few hills in a row, it will cut out, but electrical is still on and car is still running. I had been playing around w/ 89 and 92 finding what octane it runs better on. I havent run 89 since that incedent, replaced the o2 sensor and retimed it a few times, checked the tps and temp control sensors. Good luck, im going threw the exact same thing right now. Jess

Thanks! The flares are these universal rubber flares that screw on. I did trim the front and rear fenders a bit. I got bored at work and built up a rear bumper a few days ago. I'm going to be fabbing up some hoops for recovery this weekend. Ill probably sell it here real shortly if any one is interested? Oh the front was fron an f-150 or somthing. It was just sitting at my shop and it has been my cattle grazer since my car was still stock 3 years ago.

I only got a few pix untill my memory card was full. Heres a pic of my wheel out the door. Heres a few pix I took of marks car

I did the same to my eng when I put it in 2.5 years ago. If you make sure your surfaces are clean then you should be good. I ALWAYS use ultra grey RTV. Just smooth it over both surfaces, it doenst have to ooze out and let it FULLY dry before use and your good. Mine still doenst leak. Good luck.

Yup the 2nd one down is the one im running. Works like a champ (when grounded)

Thanks guys. it only did it for a few days, now it seems to be working? It has been 20ish at night but batt still holds a solid 12.5. I'm thinking loose connection maybe at that fuse? Hmmm Jess

Oops forgot to say, I am currently running both oem and upper rad hose sensors, works great. They make diff adaptors for diff size rad hoses. If ya can't find an adaptor. They sell them down here at the rice shop. I could mail one too ya... P.S. I stayed up till 130 looking for those caps. Ill find them I promise!

Ok, IMO you have a few options. Your best bet is to tap/use an existing hole. Not sure how an ea81T is, but you COULD use the existing hole for oem temp sensor. You always want to go between the eng and T-stat. The other option is to cut the upper hose and go to a speed/ rice shop and get a temp sensor adaptor (like $30). Check to see if your sensor needs to be grounded or it won't work, mine did. this way you still have both sensors. The one in the upper hose will raise and lower as the t-stat opens but is still accurate, it really doesn't fluctuate too much, but it shows you 2 things. how far off you stock guage is and what temp you T-stat is opening. Hope this helps. Jess

Well its just that I like 1000 rpms better because I have solid trans mounts and it vibrates a lot, plus rpm's drop a lot when idling at close the the alternators max load? When set to 1K and running all my acc. at idle I'm at 800. If I were at 800, I would be at 600 w/ all my acc on. The harness was re routed when I put in the eng origionally, it looked to close for comfort. Thanks Jess

Two years or so ago when my car wasnt lifted on tires, I towed a single axle flat bed trailer and a quad and gas cans at about 1500lbs from Olympia Wa to Florence Or. It was a long haul and It made it Just fine till the end. It had a hard time boosting for LOONG periods of time in the last 3 miles or so. I made someone else who didnt have a trailer bring it back My shop builds custom hitches. Worked great.

This is exactly what I will be doing. Where are you guys getting the cap seals and O rings? Subaru doenst offer the O rings anymore and the cap seals (which match the same as Datsun 510 rear diff cap seals) are 5 days out from subaru. I will be calling a few nissan dealers tomorrow for cap seals. What is the propper term for this "cap seal"? And what are torque spec's?

Ive know where my idle is for along time. I dont like leaving it at 700 its just too low for me. I followed it from the dizzy to the plug but mine has 7 wires? Im sure its the same plug. Ill check/ change that along with the o2 sensor.

Thats my question as well. But EVERY manufacture claims only theres will work. Origionally I had a diff guy till I started doing them myself for my drift car. He used mainly this certain type of lsd additive? Always worked for me. I actually was debating not dropping it in while reading the SUBARU ONLY FLUID. Not even just LSD ONLY, so some moron at jiffylube doesnt swap fluids. I am having issues so I havent really tried it much But ill let ya know if it fails?

Somthing really weird happened and It had to happen within the last time I fillled up. The constant power for my TRIP memory doesnt work. Now everytime I shut off the eng it resets. Bad Cluster? Its an ea82 Digi dash. Thanks in advance Jess

Where is the black connector between the dizzy and knock sensor? I havent looked for it but ill go look. This is all done w/o any green connector plugged in right? Can I adjust my idle when im done timing? I dont like idling that low. What do you guys run your idle at? Oh also. It did this one time a year ago. Almost all stock, I was trailering about 1500lbs from here to florance OR. It was a long haul. There were WAY more hills then expected and was in the boost much more then I would have prefered. I had to slow down to not hold it in the boost for LOONG periods of time. I started at 4-5lbs of boost and slowly worked my way down. When I was almost there, It did this exact same thing. Going up hill I thought I was done for. But getting out of the boost got me there. ( like 3 mi, ) It barely chugged in. I just chilled out and didnt drive it for 2 days. Fired it up and she drove the same till last week? It seems to be boost related? It wont do it boosting on the way to work at 20 +/- temps outside. Boosting freely. But on the way home at about 35-40ish degrees out, It will do it ONLY if boosting for a decent period of time? Other than that, It wont do it? Any ideas? Thanks again Jess

ya Ive got to do my lsd ratio swap.

I was too tired. It was at 22 BTDC i switched it to 24 BTDC Ive read 2 different ways to time it. First was to plug green connector at normal operating temp and 800rpm's and shoot time. Second was to disconnect the knock thing up by the mass air flow sensor and disconnect/plug the vacume advance, at 800rpm's I searched for awhile and found really brief instructions somewhere else mentioning the knock thing. The one I unplugged didnt have an 8 pin connector. Both ways gave me 24 BTDC. Im thinking timing isnt my issue? -UPDATE- Cleaned mass airflow sensor, checked and re-dielectric greased, tps, mass airflow plug, coolant temp sensor and checked ecu codes. No codes thrown? Didnt do anythig driving around town. Will find out if it changed anyting on the way home from work.

The car I saw had a d/r 4sp and no front axles? Same car?

Wondering this myself. Is kendal required? I found a few posts of people trying 80-90 w/ additive but w/ no report back?

So are you running a non turbo dual range 3.9 trans and a 3.7 final drive? How does it drive?

Ok so Ive heard that im supossed to run any where from 20 to 25 BFTDC 25 BFTDC is the CORRECT timing? I mean at 7000+ posts im sure your right. Im at 24 now. It bounces around alot. Is it crutial to get right inbetween 24 and 26?

What is timing for 86? -UPDATE- Yesterday my car did somthing really weird. I was driving along, just got off the freeway and I made it back up to 3rd gear and while in the throttle it like stopped giving the eng fuel, the front end dove down, but was still idling/running, all electrical is still on. Just as I let off the gas I went back on and BRRRRAAA Going again? Its like it would do it intermittently and only over half throttle. Like a bad connection at the TPS or faulty TPS or fuel pump or somthing? I thought maybe I got bad gas? I stopped at a Chevron and topped it off. It seemed ok? When I got home, thats when I messed w/ the timing. All my test runs were great. But I dont know the relevance of me driving it for 30mins prior to symptoms? When I would change/check somthing then test drive. It never did it. But when I started it up when freezing outside. It seemed to run fine? Could it be bad gas? Doensnt affect starting or idling. Been checking a few things. It was cold out when It first started happening but thismorning it was freezing and I made it all the way to work w/ no issues. It did it just before I got home. It wasnt near as bad but it still did it 2 or 3 times. Checked all my trouble codes, thinking a faulty tps circuit would be there but im only throwing a 12, which is starter circuit off. Soo stumped? Jess

So then the 3.9, 23 spline count at 1.5:1 would be the choice trans for offroading? If all turbo cars had 3.7 and my rearend was 3.9 then the p/o had changed the rearend. I ran that with the incorrect rear end in it for 2 1/5 years and since someone told me I could drive it on the pavement in 4wd, I drove it on pavement in 4wd for the past 8 mo. Ive never owned a d/r trans and It in itself feels weird. I just ran the new d/r at Im guessing 3.9? w/ my 3.9 open diff. It felt great offroad, just kinda binding, felt weird but good. I finaly just kinda tested my new lsd a few mins ago. I feels the same except grip from both rears. Would I be able to feel it doing any thing weird? I have the trans but dont know if if its worth the swap to 3.7 and getting a 1.2:1 low range :-\ wouldnt this be bad for wheeling? I now have a (from what Im told) 3.7 single range trans 25 spline count, 3.7 dual range from rx coupe 25 spline count ( bought it today), 3.9 open diff (came in the car), and 3.7. lsd ( just swapped in car). Im confused now and its been a long day. Correct me if im wrong but isnt the 3.9 gearing better for wheeling? woulndt 1.2:1 be worse along with being lower geared? Jess

Ok So yesterday when we were putting timing belts on the free gl-10 sedan we got. I was looking at the book and decided to check the timing on my wagon. It was at about 20deg BFTDC and I had a piece of paper in there that said correct timing is 22deg BFTDC so I bumped it to 22deg. It seems to boost slower and let me use more of my throttle. Seems to boost alot smoother too. As well as reving cleaner. I cant believe 2deg made that much diff? What is the correct timing for EA82t? Thanks Jess