Kilroy

3" DP from both turbos down to a 2.5" Y pipe. 3" from the Y all the way to the back, no cats. Nice low rumble and not too loud.

Don't cut the stock wiring harness off. Once you have a wiring diagram (I have a manual in PDF, but it's 32MB), simply put spade connectors on the radio side connections and then cut the spade connectors down the center with wire cutters to make them half as wide. Plug them into the appropriate plugs on the harness (they should fit quite tight if you cut them properly) and you are done. This way you can put the stock stereo back into the vehicle when you sell it and it will take you no time at all. If you have a way that I can get 32MB to you, let me know and I'll send you the entire manual.

I made this short video yesterday to send to people who have been asking me exactly what/where the noise was and things went from bad to worse. You'll notice it idles nicely at the beginning, but at the end it's a constant knocking now.

Who's your friend in Edmonton? I used William at JDM Connection to handle importing my vehicle. I've read that the EJ20H (and EJ20R) are quite reliable engines as long as you keep the oil topped up (and changed regularily) and don't over-detonate. I would think that a rebuild with all new forged internals and cleaned passageways should take care of any reliability issues, no?

From reading info on this and other Soob boards, the single turbo is the way to go. I'm just concerned about what is required as far as the wiring goes. I've been trying to find an aftermarket ECU (current ECU is VERY limiting) and I read that this motor already has forged pistons (THAT really surprised me).

I'm looking at doing a rebuild on the motor in my '94 JDM Legacy GT Wagon (EJ20H) and I've been quoted roughly $5K to do the job including pulling and reinstalling the engine. The motor starts knocking badly once I hit 2000 RPM, so I'm thinking it spun a bearing, but until we get in there there's no real way to tell. I've crawled all over the engine top and bottom trying to nail down where the sound is coming from, but there is no real way to tell even with a stethoscope. I was originally going to pull the motor and tear it down myself, but I only have experience with EJ22 engines and this twin turbo setup could be a real monster. Even changing spark plugs is a PITA, you have to remove pipes and wires just to get at them. :-\ I'm looking for other options to spend my $5K on while the motor is out and perhaps increase the HP numbers and still have a reliable vehicle. Any options other than just a rebuild (different engine, switching to single turbo, etc.) will have to include rewiring, which could be a nightmare. I considered purchasing another EJ20H and dropping it in, but then I have no idea what kind of shape the inside of the motor is in and I'm back to square one. The work will all be done at a performance shop which has extensive experience with Subaru engines. Thoughts? Options?

Hit that paint with some Turtle Wax Color Back and watch the oxidation disappear. I restored the original paint on a 1964 Rambler Classic with Color Back (the car was originally bought by a great-uncle, never garaged) and it looked like new paint when I was done.

MAF. Sounds exactly the same as the problems I had with my 1990 Leggy w/auto. and replacing the MAF fixed it.

I'm not sure about the accent (the only Canadians that say 'aboot' are those damned frenchies to the east), but I notice now and then that I say 'eh?' quite a bit to change a sentence from a statement to a question. I didn't really notice until I was visiting a friend in Seattle and I asked him if I was using it a lot, turns out I was. :-\ I still haven't found the wax I want (Turtle Wax Color Cure). It turns out it has been discontinued and replaced by their 'ICE' line of products. I used the Color Cure on my Acura RL and it's phenominal for hiding small scratches as it comes with a little lipstick tube of hard wax that you run across your scratches to fill them in and then you use the colored liquid wax over them. Voila! No more scratch. Zymol is supposed to be (arguably) the best wax on the market and I have tried it, but it is light blue and every little nick or scratch is filled with it and turned light blue. Not good on a deep red (or deep green, as my RL was) vehicle. I've purchased the ICE wax and cleaner ($40!!) and will give it a shot soon, but it's been raining on and off here several times a day for the last few days. 5 minute rain, add dust/pollen and your vehicle looks like crap again. I went out to check the spark plugs on the car yesterday, figuring it would be a simple procedure as most cars are. I couldn't even see the damned things, let alone find them! That engine bay is packed tighter than a flamer on gay pride day! And good luck finding a manual for the car/engine. Any manual I would be able to find would probably be in Japanese anyways.

Nice. Very nice. I wish I could find a place like that with a great backdrop in my area. I'll have to settle for pics of my car with chicks and titties all over it.

Yes, I am in Canada. My vehicle was 15 years old and legal to import on April 1/09, I believe they have to be 25 years old to import to the US. You may be able to get around this by purchasing a JDM vehicle in Canada and bringing it into the US, but make sure you contact the proper authorities before you attempt this just to be sure. I received my car about 2 weeks ago and it passed the out-of-province inspection and was registered/plated yesterday. I must say it's a blast to drive. I was originally looking for a manual, but they can't be had in the EJ20H engine until 1996 (when it changes to an EJ20R and 276HP). I got a nice surprise when I was inspecting it and changing/checking all my fluids. It has coilovers!! My 17s fit perfectly and it handles like it's on rails, completely flat cornering. My sound system took me 4 days to install (I'm very picky) and I'm heading outside to add some Dynamat to the trunk door as dual 12s cause some vibration at higher SPLs. I'll add some pics once I've completed the detailing, but I'm having a hell of a time finding the wax I want to use on the car. With regards to the 'valley of death', I don't really notice it unless I am watching for it under moderate-hard acceleration, but it's definitely there. At ~65 MPH it seems to be the sweet spot for cruising and the boost comes on instantly for quick passing. It pulls like a bull up to 100MPH (that's as fast as I have had it). The speedo tops out at 180 km/h (as do all other JDMs up to 2003) and apparently there is a 190 km/h limiter, but I don't intend to find out. Other little unique touches that I can't get in a 1994 North America spec car: Power mirrors that fold flat to the car with the touch of a button (for tight parking spaces) Heated mirrors Heated wiper fluid A winter traction mode? (Keeps the transmission in the current gear, button says HOLD AT and has a snowflake icon) Dual sunroofs Tweeters in the front doors by the mirrors and in the rear firing forwards (not down) in the ceiling just inside the hatch.

That's the way to do it. I pull both the engine and transmission together. It makes it much easier separating the transmission from the engine when it is hanging in the air as the alignment pins can really bind. When you have the whole thing in front of you it makes the separation much easier. You should be able to do the whole pull in under 2 hours, even if it's your first time.

That's exactly what it is, the time from the first turbo to max out and the second to spool up. I contacted a guy in the area who imports vehicles from Japan and has people in Japan to do his inspections and cleanup before exporting. He forwards me potential vehicles coming to auction and I review them and let him know if there are any I am interested in. My requirements were pretty high, so it took a couple of months to find one that I liked.