Kilroy

$50 part and 3-4 hours labour!!? The Subaru dealership quoted me $250 for the selenoid and 6 hours ($575) labour to change out mine in Edmonton, Canada!

OK, I've just done a lot of reading on torque bind and the duty b and c selenoids on the forum. I don't have the shuddering symptoms that people are experiencing due to the duty c selenoid, so I am thinking that the wire may be broken. Is there any particular place that the wire runs that is prone to cause a break or is it all internal? I just put the car up on stands and inserted the FWD fuse, only the front tires turn even if given a lot of pedal.

Thanks Matt!

I am trying to get the large nut off of the end of the front axles, right outside the disk brake rotor. It is coming off of a '93 Legacy Wagon LS as I am going to remove the transmission and front diff. The nut is recessed in the rotor, so it has to be removed with a socket, it looks to be about a 30mm size and I am going to purchase a socket in the morning. Does anyone know the exact size of the nut?

Definitely do the tranny fliud change, that should help at least a little. Let us know how it turns out.

Is your ECU throwing any codes? A problem like this would usually cause a code error.

Check eBay, I was just doing some browsing and I saw a couple of MAF sensors there.

Looking forward to seeing how this goes as this weekend I am pulling a 4EAT from the wrecking yard and (possibly) installing it in my '90 Lecacy Wagon. I have to replace the flexplate, perhaps I'll look for a lightweight one as well.

I visited a few 'pick-a-part' wreckers in my area and managed to find a '93 Legacy with an EJ22 like mine. A few of the sensors are small enough to put in your pocket, while the ones that are too large are certainly cheaper than laying out good $$$ for new ones. There are certainly no guarantees that the sensor will work, but the wreckers I visited had a 30 day return policy.

I just spoke with service at a Subaru dealer and was quoted $570 just for the labour to R&R the transmission plus about $250 each for the selenoids, which have to be ordered. He told me that there are about 7 different selenoids in the tranny and that they would have to find out which one(s) were the problem before even doing an order. Yikes! I have found a tranny that I can pull myself at a pick-a-part wrecker and it will cost me $80. I did a thorough external inspection and it is dry (no oil) and free of any damage, but the odometer indicates 270,000 km. Thinking of just doing a swap and crossing my fingers...

So you are saying he will wipe his headlights once a year?

I haven't driven mine since I read the TCU error codes last weekend, which were duty B and C selenoids. I was planning on dropping the tranny myself to replace them (and the flexplate), is this job really so technical that one should only take it to the dealer to have it done?

2005 SUBARU LGCY OTBK 2.5 XT LTD AWD 4S4BP67C454350167 STATION WAGON 2.5L H4 DOHC / ALL WHEEL DRIVE Standard Equipment | Safety Options CARFAX Safety & Reliability Report CARFAX Vehicle History - At A Glance • 4 billion vehicle history events checked from public and private sources • Qualifies - CARFAX Buyback Guarantee • One owner • Last reported mileage - 15,086 miles A CARFAX Vehicle History Report is based only on information supplied to CARFAX. Other information about this vehicle, including problems, may not have been reported to CARFAX. Use this report as one important tool, along with a vehicle inspection and test drive, to make a better decision about your next used car. The number of owners is estimated by CARFAX Year purchased 2005 Type of owner Personal Estimated length of ownership 7 months Owned in the following states/provinces Washington Estimated miles driven per year --- Last reported odometer reading 15,086 CARFAX guarantees the information in this section Salvage | Junk | Rebuilt Guaranteed No Problem Fire/Flood | Hail Damage | Buyback/Lemon Guaranteed No Problem Not Actual Mileage | Exceeds Mechanical Limits Guaranteed No Problem GUARANTEED - None of these major title problems were reported by a state Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). If you find that any of these title problems were reported by a DMV and not included in this report, CARFAX will buy this vehicle back. Register | View Terms Not all accidents or other issues are reported to CARFAX Frame Damage Check No frame damage reported to CARFAX. No Issues Reported Airbag Deployment Check No airbag deployment reported to CARFAX. No Issues Reported Odometer Rollback Check No indication of an odometer rollback. No Issues Indicated Accident Check No accidents reported to CARFAX. No Issues Reported Manufacturer Recall Check No recalls still require repair. No Recalls Reported Basic Warranty Check Estimated to have 29 months or 20,914 miles remaining. Recalculate warranty Interested in an extended warranty? Warranty Active 2005 SUBARU LEGACY GT LTD Body Style: Sedan 4 DR Engine Type: 2.5L H4 DOHC Free CARFAX Report Auto Line Distance: 18.07 mi Contact Dealer A CARFAX Vehicle History Report is based only on information supplied to CARFAX. CARFAX checked over 4 billion vehicle history events and found 5 record(s) for this 2005 SUBARU LGCY OTBK 2.5 XT LTD AWD (4S4BP67C454350167). Purchased: 2005 Type: Personal Where: Washington Est. miles/year: --- Est. length owned: 10/25/05 - 6/8/06 (7 months) Date: Mileage: Source: Comments: 10/25/2005 3,403 Washington Motor Vehicle Dept. Snoqualmie, WA Title issued or updated First owner reported Registered as personal vehicle Vehicle color noted as White 11/03/2005 Washington Motor Vehicle Dept. Snoqualmie, WA Title #0529819150 Title issued or updated Vehicle color noted as White 06/08/2006 15,086 Carter Subaru Seattle, WA 206-542-1166 http://www.cartersubaru.com/ Vehicle offered for sale 06/13/2006 Carter Subaru Seattle, WA 206-542-1166 http://www.cartersubaru.com Vehicle serviced 06/22/2006 Subaru of America No recalls open for repair First Owner When the first owner(s) obtains a title from a Department of Motor Vehicles as proof of ownership. Ownership History CARFAX defines an owner as an individual or business that possesses and uses a vehicle. Not all title transactions represent changes in ownership. To provide estimated number of owners, CARFAX proprietary technology analyzes all the events in a vehicle history. Estimated ownership is available for vehicles manufactured after 1994 and titled solely in the US including Puerto Rico. Dealers sometimes opt to take ownership of a vehicle and are required to in the following states: Maine, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Ohio, Oklahoma and South Dakota. Please consider this as you review a vehicle's estimated ownership history. Title Issued A state issues a title to provide a vehicle owner with proof of ownership. Each title has a unique number. Each title or registration record on a CARFAX report does not necessarily indicate a change in ownership. In Canada, a registration and bill of sale are used as proof of ownership. Accident Indicator Various events could indicate an accident in a vehicle's history, such as: salvage auction, fire damage, police-reported accident, crash test vehicle, damage disclosure, collision repair facility and automotive recycler records. See the glossary for more information.Airbag Deployment Occurs when the driver, passenger or side airbag has been used or deployed during a crash or other incident. If an airbag has been deployed, new or recycled airbags must be installed for the airbag system to return to operation.Frame Damage In most cases, a vehicle is inspected for frame damage after an accident or other incident. All levels of accidents from minor to severe can cause frame damage and in most cases it can be repaired. If frame damage is reported, having this vehicle's frame inspected before purchase is recommended.Odometer Rollback If a more recent odometer reading is less than an older reading, then the odometer may have been tampered with and "rolled back".Manufacturer Recall Automobile manufacturers issue recall notices to inform owners of car defects that have come to the manufacturer's attention. Recalls also suggest improvements that can be made to improve the safety of a particular vehicle. Most manufacturer recalls can be repaired at no cost to you.Basic Warranty Most manufacturers offer a basic warranty for new vehicles. These warranties vary by manufacturer and typically last for a certain amount of time and/or a set number of miles.Salvage Title A Salvage Title is issued on a vehicle damaged to the extent that the cost of repairing the vehicle for safe operation exceeds its fair market value; or a vehicle that has been declared a Total Loss by an insurer or other state or jurisdiction. Some states treat Junk titles the same as Salvage but the majority use this title to indicate that a vehicle is not road worthy and cannot be titled again in that state. The following ten States also use Salvage titles to identify stolen vehicles - AZ, FL, GA, IL, MN, NJ, NM, NY, OK and OR. Junk Title A Junk Title is issued on a vehicle damaged to the extent that the cost of repairing the vehicle for safe operation exceeds its fair market value; or a vehicle that has been declared a Total Loss by an insurer or other state or jurisdiction. Some states treat Junk titles the same as Salvage but the majority use this title to indicate that a vehicle is not road worthy and cannot be titled again in that state.Rebuilt/Reconstructed Title A Rebuilt/Reconstructed vehicle is a salvage vehicle that has been repaired and restored to operation. These vehicles are often severely damaged before they are rebuilt and refurbished parts are typically used during reconstruction. In most states, an inspection of the vehicle is required before the vehicle is allowed to return to the road. Loss Due To Fire Title The vehicle sustained major damage due to fire. In most states, fire damage titles are issued when the cost of repairing the vehicle for safe operation exceeds its fair market value.Flood Damage Title States issue flood titles when a vehicle has been in a flood or has received extensive water damage. Hail Damage Title The vehicle sustained major damage due to hail. In most states, hail damage titles are issued when the cost of repairing the vehicle for safe operation exceeds its fair market value.Manufacturer Buyback or Lemon A vehicle, generally with major problems, that has been repurchased by or had its price renegotiated with the manufacturer. The specific requirements for vehicles that qualify as a "lemon" vary by state but most states mark an official document or issue a Manufacturer Buyback title for Lemon Law vehicles. In addition, most manufacturers will, as a courtesy, buy back some vehicles that do not meet Lemon Law specifications; these buybacks may or may not be recorded on the title.Not Actual Mileage Title When the seller certifies, under the Truth-in-Mileage Act, that the odometer reading does not reflect the vehicle's actual mileage. This may occur because the odometer was tampered with, broken, or replaced.Exceeds Mechanical Limits A vehicle with a 5-digit odometer cannot accurately track mileage after 99,999 miles because the odometer rolls over. This title is the result of a seller certifying under the Truth-in-Mileage Act, that the odometer reading EXCEEDS MECHANICAL LIMITS of the odometer.Standard Equipment Power Windows, Power Steering, Air Conditioning, AM / FM CD, Power Brakes, 6-digit Odometer Safety Options 4 wheel ABS, Running Lights, Dual air bags front, head, and sides/active (manual) belts with automatic passenger sensor

Mine is nice and shiny....but that's because I had a power steering hose come off and fluid was everywhere. I had to clean it all off. :-p

It sounds like you had a continuous short in your starter.

Heheh, I was doing some reading and came across a good description for the sound I am hearing: engine marbles! Hey nipper, take a look at this and tell me what you think: http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:PysSN4MnVAUJ:bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php%3Fp%3D115180%26sid%3D649f455717111c4a6f6187112261ece7+ej22+flexplate&hl=en&gl=ca&ct=clnk&cd=5 From what I am seeing on my schematics, the flexplate mounts to the rear of the flywheel and just before the front diff (either that, or this picture is showing both AT and MT all in one)? Is that correct, a flywheel AND a flexplate? Perhaps it was just the flexplate that I was seeing in the bellhousing all along and I thought it was a flywheel? It sure looked thick/heavy enought to be a flywheel. I am finding many references to the flexplate being the culprit here, is there any way to inspect it without tearing apart the tranny? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Flywheel failures. Members of the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Association report seeing an inordinate number of flywheel/flexplate failures when rebuilding some of today's modern powerplants. Typically, the failures take the form of cracks around the crankshaft or torque converter bolt mounting holes. In extreme cases, the outer portions of the flywheel or flexplate can completely separate from the mounting area. Following are some key causes of flywheel/flexplate damage, courtesy of AERA: *Installing a flywheel or flexplate when it's not absolutely perpendicular to the rear crankshaft flange. *An out-of-balance engine or torque converter *Too much crankshaft end play due to excessive thrust bearing wear. *A bad starter drive, which can cause the teeth on the flywheel or flexplate to wear rapidly. Tooth damage can also result when the vehicle owner repeatedly engages the starter with the engine running. *An excessively worn automatic transmission front pump bushing. *Failure to torque the flywheel or flexplate retaining bolts to the proper specs and in the correct sequence during installation. *Failure to install starter shims, where those shims were previously used to ensure proper engagement between the starter drive and flywheel or flexplate teeth.

That one looks just like mine except mine is a darker blue, very nice shape! I could see myself bidding $2500 on this car quite easily. I haven't gone through more than 1/2 a tank of gas in my car so far, what kind of gas mileage should I be expecting? I purchased the car with the expectation of at least 30 MPG. I drive about 65-70 on the highways for about 20 minutes then another 5 minutes of city driving each day on my way to work and then back home.

I found the sticky from Legacy777 on how to check error codes. Good news, no ECU error codes. I'm resetting the ECU/TCU codes now and will take the car for a drive in a little bit to see if they come back. I'm hoping the TCU errors stay away. Doing a look for the flex plate now, not too sure what that is. EDIT: I tried to reset the ECU/TCU, but it states you have to let the engine idle for about 10-15 minutes without hitting the gas pedal to get it up to operating temperature after you have the battery disconnected for 30-45 minutes. I can't get it to idle that long, it goes about 3 minutes then dies. I can restart it if I wait about 15 seconds, but will have to hit the gas to keep it going longer than about another minute. I checked and the TCU code was still there.

I just found a writeup on how to check your TCU codes via the POWER light and they came back as code 12 and code 24 (duty B and C selenoids). I've been doing some Googling, but I can't find anything that lets me know exactly what they look like or where they are. Anyone? Found selenoid C, it's in the tranny. DOH!

Hit a wrecking yard today, but they only had 5 Subarus and none of them were even close. Going to have to find another yard tomorrow that will let me pull parts myself, I want to get my hands on a bunch of sensors. I found the ignitor today (directly in the center mounted on the firewall) and it has been punctured in the middle by something, probably a screwdriver. Any moisture at all in there would definitely effect it's operation. The starter is not new, but the wear marks do not look shiny and fresh on the teeth of either the starter or the flywheel. I just took off the starter and put a 2mm washer between the starter and engine and tightened it up. This allowed a little more clearance for the starter. I started it and the sound was still there, it hadn't changed at all. Remove starter, remove washers, retighten. Starting to worry the sound may be coming from below/behind the flywheel.

I pulled the starter gear out with a pair of pliers to check how it went back in (it was way too hard to pull with my fingers) and it has plenty of tension in it. I seats right back as far as it can very firmly. Is there a gasket of some type required between the engine and starter? I'll check out the relay in the morning after I track down where it's at. Another thing I found that was a little peculiar was 2 small hoses right next to each other coming out of the top of the front diff right at the rear of the engine. They didn't plug into anything. Drain hoses?

Had one heck of a night working on the subby. Took out the starter and the spring is working fine. About an hour after that I had a brain fart and realized that there was no seal or gasket (I imagine there should be a rubber seal) between the starter and the engine. Even another 1/8" away from the flywheel would make the difference. I can see a tiny bit of wear on the very edge of the starter gear as well as the flywheel and upon a closer examination of where the sound is originating it really sounds like that is the problem. Is there supposed to be a rubber seal there? I took the car for a run and I was almost back to the garage when the steering started to get tougher. Up until this point it hadn't died yet and I was feeling rather good. I pulled it into the garage, popped the hood, then jumped back as a cloud of fumes came at me. There was power steering fluid EVERYWHERE! After 20 minutes of cleaning, I topped up the fluid again and cringed while I had my wife start the car. I couldn't find any leaks or blown hoses anywhere, so I was prepared for the worst. With a sigh of relief, I saw that the blot on the steel hose connected directly to the side of the power steering pump was leaking. It was so loose I could turn it with my fingers. I cranked that down and everything was fine. I had to go to the in-law's house for a few minutes about 12 blocks away and on the way back home the car died 3 times. I'm starting to think it may be the fuel pump as it did give a little sputter before dying and I managed to keep it running another time by pumping the gas pedal on and off quickly. I took off the fuel filter and blew it out and there was no resistance, the fuel came through very easily. I'm hoping the fuel pump isn't mounted in the gas tank as I want to check on it tomorrow.

I would be having a face-to-face in a heartbeat with whoever did that timing job... :mad:

I'm a steel fabricator and we use K-Wool over a weld so that it cools down slower. You can put a 1" piece of this stuff in front of a blowtorch and your hand on the other and not feel a thing. Perhaps something like that stuffed into the heat shield would be a good solution, my only concern may be that the pipe itself would get TOO hot! It would definitely lengthen the time the vehicle takes to cool off.