Kilroy

I found these on the Aussieveedubbers website forum while doing a search for an engine layout for my EJ22, I'm sure they will help other people too. Props go out to Baja Wes, an admin on the forum who posted the links! I haven't checked them all out, but I did find a great deal of info for my EJ22. Here is a link to a full manual for the EJ22 and EJ22T: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990-1994_Legacy_Parts_Manual_-_Engine/ Links for full manuals for the EJ22, EA81 and EA82: http://64.233.167.104/search?q=cache:1erBqNhx5qUJ:www.ch601.org/engines.htm+ej22+service+manual&hl=en&gl=ca&ct=cln k&cd=9 Full professional service manual for 2004 Impreza WRX Sti: http://206.13.93.15/STi_Stuff/STi_Manual/index.htm http://www.northursalia.com WORKSHOP MANUALS & WIRING DIAGRAMS http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp - A collection of pdf Subaru manuals and service bulletins, the only catch is you have to pay money to view most files. http://www.saxonfields.freeserve.co.uk/ - this site has the EJ20T service manuals, including wiring diagrams, for pre MY97 vehicles and MY97/MY98 vehicles. On the left bar click 'Scooby page' then when that page loads on the right click 'Workshop Manuals'. There is also a link to fault diagnosos error codes. http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 - Subaru EJ22 (90-94), EA81 & EA82 Service Manuals http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/subaruvanagon/files/ - only for Subaru swaps into a Vanagon but a great resource for any Subaru conversion, also has some wiring diagrams. http://alexcajeaux.users4.50megs.com/subaru/90LegacyShopManuals/Engine/2-7FuelInjectionSystem/ - Wiring / Repair - 2.2L Engine Trouble Diagnostics > Excerpt from Subaru Factory Manual - all about diagnosing engine problems using the OBD-I self diagnostic system, trouble codes, etc. Based on a 1990 2.2L but useful for other years. Must click on individual page numbers one-by-one. http://www.mygyroplane.com/overhaulej22.pdf - Wiring / Repair - Overhaul EJ22 PDF > A 14 page PDF file with lots of color photos giving basic service information on the Subaru 2.2 liter engine. Includes detailed instructions on changing the timing belt. http://usmb.net/repair/ - Wiring / Repair - Ultimate Subaru Message Board > SOHC and DOHC, NA and Turbo, wiring diagrams. http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/elec/FtIgnitionDiagOpS00.pdf - Wiring / Repair - Basic info on Subaru motor ignition system and fault finding. http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/misc/wiring/diagnosisegi.pdf - Wiring / Repair - In depth fault finding of the Subaru EFI system applicable to 1999 and later versions, but some info applies to earlier models OTHER http://volksweb.relitech.com/subaru.htm - Aussie article on an EJ22 DOHC n/a conversion into a watercooled van. The article refers to the motor as a Liberty but I think it is actually from a Japanese Legacy. http://www.volkswagen.org/Vanagon/EngineSwap.htm - links page http://www.smallcar.com/sparts.htm - some good pics of exhaust maniflod, J pipe and other conversion parts http://www.type2.com/library/enginem.htm - type 2 engine conversion links page http://www.ricola.co.uk/engswaps.htm - RICOLA, kit roadster EJ20T conversion. http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/6813/specialpics.html http://www.offroadvw.net/vwrx/ - An awesome project...EJ20T with Porsche G50 gearbox http://www.cnr.colostate.edu/~kevinlh/type3_conversion_to_subaru.htm - Quite informative Type 3 conversion info http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/SAE_boxer.pdf - Subaru New Horiziontally Opposed 4-valve Engine - 1989 tech paper by 3 Fuji engineers before release of the EJ20 http://www.mcn.org/b/roadcow/default.html - Roadcow - The first web chronicle of a Subaru Vanagon Conversion Ron Bloomquist's personal site of his conversion http://www.cycoactive.com/Urabus/ - Tips of a Subaru conversion - Two brothers install two Subaru Legacy motors in two VW Westies in 12 days with Kennedy adapter kit. Info on the VSS circuit is NOT correct for 1991 and later vehicles!! http://www.tomcullen.org/Vehicles/Vanagon/vanagon_project.htmVanagon Conversion Project - Step-by-step guide on converting my Vanagon to Subaru power. Wiring Diagrams, KEP's flyer on this conversion, tips, etc...

You read my mind. I passed a wrecking yard on my way to work today and thought they must have a few there due to the fact the vehicle is 16 years old. I'll put it up on the ramps a little later and pull the starter. I imagine it will be like any other starter and just be a few bolts to remove. Where would I find the ignitor? I need to get my hands on a repair manual soon, been working so much I just haven't had the time! I'm really hoping the engine lasts as long as 200k miles, that would mean it is only halfway there now! The body has not a spot of rust and the interior is great, so the engine is the only thing out of my control at this time. I always do an oil change on my vehicles in the spring and the fall, regardless of whether they require it at that time. An oil change is by far the cheapest thing you can do to maintain the life of your engine. nipper, you are the equivalent of a guy named 'jinny' that is on the Acura RL forums that I frequent. He seems to have some good advice or answer for anything as well. Thanks a bunch for all your help!

The noise sounds the same at all RPMs, but seems to die down a little and then come back at random times. The starter theory sounds about right and the positioning is correct, but over time I would expect the gear to wear and the sound to eventually go away, perhaps until the point that the gear was fully worn away. The car just dies, no sputtering at all. It will do it pretty much any time after it is warmed up and when you are at speeds slower than 30MPH. It will idle for a short time at the light and then die and once it has done it the first time after initial startup will continue to do so every time you are under 30 MPH. Simple engine? This is the weirdest damned setup I have seen for an engine and I'm still trying to figure out what is going on. I'll probably need to see a full schematic to actually get my head around it. I must admit I was pleasantly surprise when I took it out on the highway and mashed it to the floor. It tached all the way to 6500 RPM (redline) and shifted smoothly to the next gear where it went to 6500 RPM again before switching to 3rd. With the exception of that rattling noise, the engine sounded excellent and it picked up very well for such a small motor.

I just installed the new sensor and it didn't make a damned bit of difference. The car died at a light and then again about a minute later doing 30 MPH. It runs fine at highway speeds though. I drained the ATF fluid and got over 2 litres of it and it is still a little above the full line! It's still making a damned racket as soon as I start the engine. It sounds like something is spinning and not quite engaging. I originally thought it was a loose heat shield on the muffler, but they are all fine. I slid under the car while it was running and up on ramps to try and track it down. It seems to be coming from the lower rear of the engine (the lower firewall area) and it is internal. The sound doesn't get any louder or quieter at difference speeds, either. I can't get the car into a Subaru service center until at least the 27th, so I am concerned as to whether I should be driving it at all until that time.

The ATF fluid is the proper red color, I don't think there is a leak to the rad. I've got my fingers crossed that it was just an overfill by mistake.

I picked up the car this afternoon from the seller and found the lever quite quickly once I took a little better look, it locked the steering wheel in place quite nicely. THANK YOU!! That's the good news... The bad news is that I drove the car away and 8-10 minutes later it died at a stop light. It started right up again and I got to the next light, where it once again died. This time, it would not start right away although I tried several times. I waited about 30 seconds until the light turned green and tried it again, it fired right up like there was nothing wrong (computer reset itself perhaps?). At this point, I just wanted to make it to work, which was another 5 minutes away and about 4 more lights. I ducked into a residential area to avoid the lights and did some rolling stops at the stop signs. I made it with no more stalls. I headed home from work about 4 hours ago, bearing in mind the stopping problem. I managed to avoid all the lights except for one, which was about 5 minutes from work. The car died right away. I waited for the green, fired it up and proceeded across the intersection where the car started to hesitate and buck and I pulled over where it finally died once again. I waited about 3 minutes, fired it up and drove the remaining 20 minutes home on the highway. The only time it seemed to hesitate and stutter again was when I had to slow down to about 30 MPH for an offramp and a 270 degree turn to the final highway home. The car ran beautifully on the highway. I immediately pulled the car into the garage and up onto a couple of ramps so I could do some looking underneath. The car makes a rattling sound non-stop and it seemed to be coming from underneath to the rear of engine. I was expecting it to be a loose heat sheild on the exhaust. This was the first time I had been able to pop the hood and see the engine under some really good light. It looked good, I mean REALLY good. Very clean and well laid out without a drop of oil or any other fluid anywhere. Upon sliding underneath on the creeper, I saw ATF fluid from the rear of the engine all the way to the rear differential. It had been raining for a couple hours while I was at work and the roads were still wet, so it may not all be ATF, but there was a distinct red tinge to the liquid wherever I put my finger. Alas, there was no loose heat shield either and I'll be damned if I can figure what the noise was. I took the car off the ramps and checked all my fluids (all were full and looked very clean), I had to check the manual to find where the tranny dipstick was hidden. The transmission was still warm, but the vehicle was not running. The manual instructs you to have the vehicle running and the transmission fluid warm when checking the fluid. Well, even without having the engine running I am pretty sure the ATF should not measure on the dipstick 5 INCHES ABOVE THE FULL MARK! I had to check 3 times, I couldn't believe someone would fill it so much. At first I thought that perhaps the fluid was just running up and over the dipstick tube and down the underside of the car, but a close inspection of the tube found it to be dry. Now I am thinking the seller knew about a fluid leak and topped it right up so that I would be many miles away before I found out about it. Hard to say for sure... ANNNNNNNNNNNNNNNYWAYS..... Could the temperature sensor that the seller said needs to be replaced be the reason the car dies when coming to a stop? Any idea what the rattling noise could be? Where would be the best place to look for the ATF leak (other than the bottom gasket)? The car was such a good deal and in such good shape (body and interior, still not so sure about the engine!) that I could toss another $1000 at it and still be ahead. I'll be cleaning the ATF off tomorrow (well, today actually as it's now 4AM!!) to try and track down the leak as well as trying to get it into the local Subaru service center this Saturday to have the engine checked out.

Thanks for the replies! It looks like I have been spoiled with my other vehicles as they all have power adjustment on the steering column. I'll have a look for that lever when I pick it up in about an hour.

I just put a deposit on a 1990 Subaru Legacy Wagon with 165,000 km (about 100,00 miles) which I plan to use as a daily runner to get me to work and back (50 miles highway round trip) and I will be picking it up tomorrow. It fired right up nicely and I took it for a quick test drive (wasn't insured, so I couldn't take it on the highway) and everything seemed fine and pretty much as it should be (except for the squishy brakes, probably needs bleeding). I am quite mechanically inclined and have done most of the maintenance work on my vehicles in the past, so I will be thoroughly inspecting the engine and drivetrain this weekend. I have a few questions about it that I am hoping previous Subaru owners can help me with. The tilt on the steering wheel won't stay up, it always rests on the bottom and almost touches my legs (I'm 6'1"). Is there an easy way to fix this? The ABS light stays on. It there some way to reset it, should I be inspecting something in particular or is this a common problem? The seller says that when you start the engine when it is cold, it will run for a few minutes and then dies. He says it fires right back up again with no troubles. Anyone have some insight on what this could be? The seller states that the mechanic told him it needs a new 'heat' sensor. I've done a couple hours of reading on the internet (Google is your friend!) and found references to a 'temp' sensor. Anyone know what he is referring to? Are there any tweaks or mods that can be utilized to get the most out of this engine (I am assuming it is the EJ22)? I'll be doing the basics such as oil/air/fuel filter change right away and checking the timing. Any insight/tips/advice you could give me would be much appreciated! THANKS!

I couldn't get the sound click to work, but I may have some info that will help you. I have an older Chevy 4x4 that had a distinct knocking sound coming from the engine that I could NOT get rid of. When I finally tracked it down, it was actually a small crack in the bottom of my exhaust manifold. Even a badly mated manifold to exhaust can cause the sound as well as I found out once I pulled the manifold and replaced it, then didn't fit the exhaust perfectly back to it. GOOD LUCK!