Kilroy

You don't need to run a turbo EJ22 to run it hard. About once a week I will run my NA EJ22 in the 6k RPM range for a couple of minutes (3rd gear does it very well and it runs great at that RPM) and it seems to help. The car seems to run smoother for awhile after doing it.

I put the Silverstars in my Honda Odyssey. I really liked the extra light output, but they both burned out within 9 months. I wasn't expecting this and it was a real disappointment. I put back in the stock bulbs and they still work fine 2 years later, but with lower output, of course.

Slipping belts?

If you do decide to go the wood route, you may want to go with MDF. It will cut nicer and leave a nice clean edge that shouldn't fray pieces of wood off over time like plywood will. Take out the carpet and use it as a template, just trace it on to the wood. Cut it out about 1/4" inside the line with a jigsaw.

If you want to put in an aftermarket radio/cd player and can't find the proper male plug for a direct plugin to the oem female plug, you can take a 14-16 GA spade terminal and snip one side off of it. The size is perfect to plug into the female head.

I replaced my stock radio with a JVC AVX33 yesterday. If you have a cup holder, slide it completely out and there should be screws behind it. I'm not sure if this is the case with the '97, but give it a shot.

I fired off a question to him regarding struts for my Legacy about 6 weeks ago, he never replied either.

The JDM motors typically have 30,000 to 60,000 miles on them. Still, $1200 is a steal if it is installed with warranty!

I looked into the same thing and found that there was a small difference from the '90/'91 to '92+ years. Not sure what the difference was, but it was in the harness.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html I'll be going from my stock 14" tires to 17". Try it, I think you will like how they look.

I tried to use a 3/4" ratchet with a 32mm socket, no way it would come off even after soaking it with pen oil and leaving it overnight! I added a 4' section of pipe to the handle and slowly applied pressure (thought for sure I was going to break something) and it finally came loose. Stubborn buggers!

I ordered a passenger side halfshaft for my '90 Legacy about 2 months ago from Bumper to Bumper. There were 2 shafts and they looked damned near identical, but there were grooves around the middle of each shaft that were different that would allow you to tell the difference between them.

Once you do find and remove it, spray the top of it with a bright colored paint to make it easier to find in the future.

http://www.tirerack.com Many reviews and comparisons by people like you and me.

Nice looking wagon, is it fully stock?

1990 Legacy Wagon 4EAT with 106,000 miles. I agree that the rear diff would be making noise if there were a problem with it. I wasn't concerned that it was the problem, I was just concerned with how hot it was. I had the car up on ramp on Monday and did a thorough check of the driveshaft and it is solid from front to rear. I looked at the U-joints, but I don't think I would be able to tell if they had seized. I have ruled out the problem as anything related to a tire/wheel due to there being no shake/vibration in the steering wheel. It is quite hard to describe this 'fluttering' that I feel. It is like I am feeling it through my body, like super low bass on a good subwoofer. At first I was not even sure it was there, but after a period of 2 weeks I am very sure of it. I also thought it could have been my rear spoiler 'fluttering' in the wind. I checked it and it is solid and tight. It isn't a spoiler like on the newer Subarus, but an aluminum fin type that creates a downdraft over the rear window. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4836&d=1177617203

I have been getting a mild 'fluttering' type feeling throughout the car when driving at highway speeds for the past couple of weeks and have been trying to track it down. The steering wheel seems to be rock solid and I more feel it through the seat (very little to feel really, but there is something there). It is not a vibration, but more of a feel that something is loose and fluttering in the wind. I have checked the external body of the car (found a missing screw in the grill and replaced it, thought I had nailed down the fluttering) and everything is securely in place. On the way home tonight I thought it might be in the rear of the car as I felt it through the seat and not the steering wheel, so I crawled under the car as soon as I got home from work (25 miles on the highway @ ~70 MPH). I put my hand on the rear diff and found it to be quite hot. Not hot enough to have to remove my hand, but very close. The temperature outside was about 55F, but with the air moving past the diff it would be quite a bit cooler. Should the rear diff be this hot? Has anyone encountered this type of 'fluttering' feeling throughout their vehicle?

My '90 Legacy Wagon does the same thing with the fuel gauge. The light will come on and then go off. It's probably due to the location of the level indicator being towards the front or rear of the tank and you are either driving uphil or downhill. I hit ~400km and the gauge is rock bottom. The gas tank is supposed to be 60 litres, but I can only get 44-45 litres into it! So I typically have 1/4 tank of gas left when I am on empty, I thought that was kind of strange. I typically fill up around 420-450 km.

:slobber:

An 8 guage power wire will be fine for that amplifier. There is no way you are going to get the full 600W out of a Pioneer amplifier. Mainstream names like Kenwood, Pioneer, Alpine, etc. typically overstate their power capabilities, the 600W you see on that amplifier is usually something seen once in the lab while they were developing it. You may want to hedge your bets and install 4 guage wire, just in case you increase the size of your amplifier in the future. That being said, the amplifier gets good reviews and should power pretty much any speaker you choose to install, plus it has line-in inputs for easy connection to your HU. Go with the fuse rating the manufacturer recommends for your amplifier. You can use any kind of fuse you like, you just need to make sure it is in-line somewhere within 2' of your battery. Capacitors are typically only used for subwoofers. Subs can draw a lot of current in a very short time, the capacitor allows the current to be available for the subwoofer at any time. If you are still considering your storage cubby for a subwoofer, bear in mind that a subwoofer NEEDS a box to reproduce sound correctly. If you just stuff it into a plastic surround it will sound terrible and vibrate the plastic housing like crazy! There are subwoofers made just to fit within your spare tire well (with the spare tire still there), but they are not very high quality. Pioneer has recently introduced a VERY low profile subwoofer (TS-SW1041D/TS-SW1241D, 3"-3.25" depth), but I have not seen any reviews commenting on the quality of the sound. If you have a tool tray immediately above your spare tire like my Legacy has, you can simply remove the tray and build yourself a 0.5-1.0 cu/ft. MDF box the same shape of the tray to mount the subwoofer in. You will need another amplifier if you plan on installing a subwoofer, so it may be a good idea to run all the cables necessary while you are installing your current HU/amp/speakers. I have found that the stock speakers in my Legacy are only 20/22 guage, so you may want to run new speaker wiring from the amplifier to your speakers as well. I would suggest 14 or 16 guage wiring if you are going to a speaker with a 40W RMS handling or higher. Also, be sure your amplifier is well grounded to eliminate a ground loop. You will know you have a ground loop if you hear whining in your speakers that goes louder when you rev the engine.

Fender wells typically rust due to dirt stuck up inside of them which in turns traps moisture. Keeping the inner fender well clear of debris each time you wash your car is something many people overlook. On my vehicles I remove and boots/rings/liners that may trap this dirt each spring and fall and get them good and clean, then give them a shot of rust inhibitor on the inside.

I was wondering how to remove that! My motor works great, but my washer sprayer hasn't been working. I took a look at it a few weeks ago and everything seemed fine. I had the wife twist the sprayer button on the end of the wiper arm to get it going and the little pump went like crazy, but no liquid came out of the sprayer. I had the wagon lift gate up during this, so I pulled it down to try and get a closer look and water spilled out from the inside plastic panel on the gate. Uh-oh! Took the plastic panel off and found that the little plastic nub on the wiper arm base had broken clean off and the sprayer hose was hanging freely inside the panel. The only way to replace it is to replace the whole arm assembly which is fitted through the glass (or glue it back on, that didn't work at all). Currently looking for a wiper arm at the wreckers. :-\

If you pass through the Edmonton area on your way to Alaska I can put you up for awhile if you want to stop and check out the sites. You can see the new HU and video system I am installing in my Legacy. Seriously, keep it in mind.

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but.... ROFL!!

Hmm, got me thinking now. I was originally going to put 16" low profile wheels/tires on the car and lower it about an inch, but the extra 4" of clearance for next winter sure would be nice. Perhaps I'll do the lowpro for the summer and install the OB struts next fall when I put my winter tires on.