RedLance

The actual shaft part of a half shaft assembly for a 4WD is a larger diameter then for the 2WD. I have checked this by laying them side by side. RedLance

Well, I don't think you'll be anywhere near me, but if you should find yourself in need, and yer within about 200 miles of Lincoln, Nebraska, just lemme know. I've got parts, tools, and if it comes down to it, a flat bed trailer. Brian 402-560-2805

Was this done on a mandrel bending machine? Or did you use a manual tubing bender? Just curious, as I have been wanting to make this same thing, out of stainless steel, but none of the muffler shops will do it, of course, so I've resinged myself to buying a tubing bender. But I don't have the scratch for a mendrel unit. I'm hoping I can use one of the ones that uses a bottle jack. I don't see why they won't work. RedLance

The red Camper Special 1980 BRAT that I have, is an EA71 with the 4spd and S/R transfer case. A neighbor noticed that we have lots of Subaru's, and gave me 2 2WD 5spd trannies. Would it be possible to transfer the "transfer case" from the 4spd to a 5spd? Thus making the 2WD 5spd, into a 4WD 5spd? I plan to travel alot in my "mini-mini motorhome" and would like to have the overdrive gearing of the 5spd. Thanks! RedLance

On both of my XT's (85 and 86) there is a little square cover next to the trip computer. Pop it off, and you'll find a screw. Take that out, and the computer comes out. Looking in there, you can now see the 2 screws that hold the radio/tape player into the dash. The screws are verticle, so you'll probably need one of those right angle screw drivers...at least I did. RedLance

Well, last time I did it, I took 3 years...I'm not doing that this time. I hope to have it done in a weekend. No reason I can't, unless it's a crack in the head. I'll charge up the extra capacity battery for the digital camera, and have at it then. RedLance

I remember looking at a DL when I was like, 12 years old. They just have a plastic parcel shelf back there, instead of a seat. It clearly states that no one is to ride back there. But as far as I can remember, the area is the same size as on the GL or GL-10, they just didn't bother to put in the seat cushions. RedLance

Well, I found out why my XT has been running hot, and not idleing very well. Seems I have only 10psi of compression on the #2 cylinder. All the other cylinder's are fine. So...now I get to yank the engine again, and find out what happened. I'm guessing that the new head gasket either got damaged when I was reassembling, or it was defective when I bought it. Coolant leaks out of the driver's side from somewhere too, which is why I suspect the gasket...although I suppose the head could be cracked. Anyway, should I document this? I have both a digital camera and a video camera. Would anybody be interested is seeing how this is done? Let me know. RedLance

My 86 XT Turbo has the factory down pipe, with the cat still intact. After the first factory connector, it's got 2 inch all the way back to the stock muffler location, and there it has a 2 in/2 out glass pack, with nothing after the muffler. It's pretty quite inside, and out at idle...it dosen't really roar until over 4,000 rpm...then it just plain sounds mean... RedLance

I've been noticing several people on here refer to a two row turbo radiator. Did EA82T's come with a two row radiator stock? Both of my Turbo XT's had single rows in them, and they both run hot. I had a hell of a time finding a replacement radiator that would fit, so I finally settled for a single row. Is this probably a big part of my overheating problems, on these turbos? Thanks! RedLance

My brother was driving a previously ill cared for EA-81 wagon. It's carberated. The 2 pole connector on the back of the alternator fell out while he was driving. It did exactly what the original poster described. Plugged the plug back in, and off he went. RedLance

I have a weird noise coming from my right front wheel. It sort of sounds like the click that a blown CV joint makes. But it gets weird after that. It only happens when I turn right, not when I turn left. It only happens while the car is "coasting"...If I touch the gas or the brake, the noise instantly stops. It even stops, while I'm turning right, if I'm on the power, or the brakes. I can feel it through the steering wheel, and the floor under my feet. When I touch the brake pedal, the noise stops, but the steering wheel shakes for a little bit, until the brakes come on. This wheel has new bearings, new seals, new rotor, and new pads. The CV was new before the ~3 year's of down time, while I replaced the head gaskets. (Yes, I know it shouldn't take that long, but I had other vehicles to drive, and other stuff to do). I'm getting tired of throwing parts at it, in hopes of fixing it. My only guess is a ball joint. I had it jacked up today, and the ball joints seem to be tight, as do the tierod ends. And the wheel was tight too, when I took it off. Any ideas? Thanks! RedLance

It was always my understanding that the "carb stove" also kept the carberator from iceing over in the winter time. The venturi effect that carbs use to pull gas out of the float bowl, also makes the humidity in the air condense out, and then, if it's cold enough, it will completly ice over the barrel. I've seen it happen. This explains why injected engines, don't have one. They don't have a venturi. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. RedLance

Please define "rough"? What all is wrong with it? Is it complete, just in bad shape? I found an 87, Turbo, that has been sitting with the windows down for several years...the interior is totaly toasted. The outside needs surface rust removal and painting. I offered $200...they want $400 cuz the engine, turbo, and tranny have like, under 10,000 miles on them. This is but one example. RedLance

You should be using a grease that says Disc Brake Wheel Bearing grease on it. It should come in the same kind of can that mixed nuts come in. Or a plastic tub. The last grease I got was red...most are dark grey, I think. Anyway, you'll be fine as long as the can/tub specifically says disc brakes and wheel bearing on it. RedLance The heat from disc breaks will make normal grease break down very rapidly. When that happenes, it becomes thin enough to leak out past the seals...

What kind of grease did you use? Was it actual wheel bearing grease, or just plain old ordinary grease grease? When you packed the bearings, did you make sure that grease came out from around all the balls? You did pack the bearings, right? Not just dump some grease into where they go, and drop them in? Or just coat the outside of the balls? It takes me 8-10 minutes to properly pack a bearing, and I've done it quite a few times... RedLance

Sounds like all you did was blow a head gasket. This is a fairly common thing for Subarus, it seems. While not a trivial repair, it's not all that bad either. A set of gaskets typically runs $200 to $300 depending on wether or not it's a turbo. But that includes every gasket you will need, and then some. If it were me, I'd fix her and drive her another 100,000 miles...I can't imagine there are that many XT's over there. RedLance :-)

We've got at least a couple Subbie's that you can leave running, and remove the key. Works great in the winter, so you can leave it run, while you dash into the store or whatever, and still lock it. Also, several of our keys will work in different Subbies. RedLance

I agree with everyone else. I like the new board! Great job everybody! RedLance