funcle

Whats the best method to obtain new pins?

The spring pins did not go back into the outer CV assymbly while a drill bit of the correct size slid easily through. Is it possibly misaligned, or do I just need new spring pins? Also, can I put somthing in the holes besides the spring pins and change them out after a few days of driving? One of the pins broke from trying to tap it in, the other is bent, but in over half way. I think the rear transmission case needed to be more level. Can I get back on the road with the springpins in the above condition and just switch them out in a few days? One other question: How can I tell the difference between binding and good connection -gear to spline- in the transaxle? (ie): is there a tolerance I should be "feeling" for? --god bless heated shops-- Jeff

Im doing mine now, and Im at ~146k, it should last as long as the car if its driven correctly. I think when I bought the car, it had allready been abused.

=Manual Transmission 1. What solvent can/should I use to flush the front transmission? 2. How can I flush the rear differential? 3. Are there any clutch alignment tricks I should know about? 4. whats the best way to break it in? -thx, Jeff

Ok, heres the deal: mom to the rescue! --Im getting the dealership certified tune up, all genuine subaru parts, and the speedo sensor replaced. The tune up oncludes all new ignition system/plugs/wires/pvc valve etc etc etc...I believe they are going to thouroughly go through the engine and replace alot of the "incidentals". (the dealer said my ignition coil was arcing) --What I did, was to check the plugs/wires, not replace, and found corrosion on that #1 sparkplug/wire (so really nothing). --since mom is fitting the bill for this, I think it will be covering all the bases discussed in these two threads. Should I have any further problems after this, I at least have a good idea what it will be (VSS #2). Without tools or a decent garage in which to work, I dont feel comfortable doing this myself, which apparently thanks to my mother, I wont have to. You all rock, and thank you so much for all the advice, this is definately the place I will come in the future (if needed). Hopefully I can get this better job that Im going after and get the godly 06 GT wagon =) thanks again, jeff

My problem is discussed here, its rather old so I thought Id make a new post... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=60791&highlight=funcle I got hosed at a dealership for a diagnostic fee, which essentially told me exactly the input recieved from that prior thread, via all that responded. Here is the new information: The dealership wants me to get a tune up to the tune of 600$ and then see if the codes still appear. Next, they want to "clean the carbon from the heads" to deminish the idle control system code. Finally, if the Speed sensor codes still appear, they would replace them. Cumulatively, the price is far beyond my budget. The only thing new information the dealership told me is that I need a new ignition coil. (I need a tune up now because of the prior problem), also, they are not familiar with "limp mode". Rodents and flukes of nature were also ruled out by the dealership. The thing that urks me is that I went to this dealership with all of the knowlege gained in the previously linked thread, and they came back to me with less information than I recieved from this community. I guess Im asking for advice here, should I do my own tuneup and then get the VSS sensors replaced, or should I bite the bullet and send myself through the financial ringer? --There is a degree of ignorence.dishonesty that I feel Im dealing with at the dealership (ie: after I told them that one of the vss sensors was in the transmission, only then did they look it up and confirm what I said, and I learned that here, from you all that responded). My train of thought is to give the car a tuneup myself (with mechanic friend) and then take it to a certified shop to get the speed sensors checked. I just dont want to get taken for more money than need be....what do you think? Appreciated: Jeff

Ok guys, more information: the codes may tell the story; P0301, P0500, P1507 and P1540....and as far as actually driving it, Ive avoided it at all costs, however, when I gas it, the engine feels normal. fuel/air+VSS+misfire=??

Im headed to autozone now, Ill get the codes, but as far as I know, this all happened at the same time. I havent noticed a tremendous loss in power, but it certaintly feels like something is unbalanced in the cylenders. thanks for the continuing info, Jeff

Excellent advice, thank you. Ill get the codes and move on from there, and start pricing plugs/wires. thank you guys, I appreciate the input.

Hello all, this is my 1st post, idk why I never joined before, but here I am =) a subara enthusiast. Anyhow, I am having a problem with my 98 Legacy GT Wagon. Here are the symptoms: 1. Check Engine light is on, not flashing, but on. 2. The spedometer stopped functioning, (tacometer is fine). 3. There is a rocking in the engine, noticable at idle, and highway speed (any time the rpm's are constant). 4. The idle is far below normal (approximately 100-200 rpms). I am sure that its an issue with one of the cylendars firing, but would like to get input from some more experienced ppl. Also, can someone suggest a course of action? I am on a very VERY limited budget and would like to resolve this myself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeff