DishMan

www.rockauto.com claim that the OEM part is: "OE Part # 22060AA070A {Knock Sensor #22060AA070}", and their price for that is only $42.89!

Kragen have them for $5-10. Note: there are at least a couple of different types. I have done numerous CV boots on my Saab and Subarus, but the last joint I bought had a different type of band, and I ended up using a pair of pliers. That worked OK but was not really very satisfactory ...

I did not much like the look of the split boot so I went for the conventional type. If it is the outer boot you are replacing, then there is also a version that is not split but will push over the CV joint using a special cone to stretch it. Of course you still have to remove the hub, so given you have to do that it is probably not much more work to remove the axle. That also has the advantage of allowing you to properly clean and check the CV joint which is particularly advisable if it has been torn for a while. One thing I learned is that if you have the inner end pinned to the stub axle it is better to remove the pin before you try to remove the hub from the axle. I did not do that and the stub pulled out. Turned out to not be a major problem, but extra work and risk of contamination in the differential.

Thanks everyone for the replies. I thought that the mechanic meant that the sensor was indicating that the engine was knocking. Looking into it further, it seems that there is only one knock sensor code, so everyone's advice to replace the sensor seems reasonable. The CEL has been off for a while but it is maybe still prudent to replace it anyway. Does anyone have any opinion about whether a $50 sensor would be any worse in terms of performance or reliability than a $90 one?

Hi All, I found some similar threads about check engine light and knock sensors, but they seemed to be concerned with faulty sensors rather than an actual knock problem. My situation is that I had the engine replaced recently on a 2001 Outback A/T (engine is rebuilt with 7/70 warranty). Shortly after it was replaced, the CEL started coming on intermittently. It seems random when it comes on and it can stay on for a whole triip (us 1/2 hr in town), or just several minutes. We also think that it is not running as smoothly as it should, though it is not terribel. We took it back to the shop (not a Subaru one since there are none in the area) and they read the code and found it was engine knock. They reset it and said to come back if it came on again. It did, with the same code, but the light went off. They seem to be at a loss as to what to do. What should I have them check? They do not have an exhaust gas analyzer, but I was under the impression that that was required for setting up engines these days. Any suggestions most welcome...:-\

I tapped it in with a hammer and piece of wood and it seemed to snap in quite nicely It stlii runs a bit roughly, and yes, after the engine replacement. It is not very bad, but you expect things to work at least as well as previously ... It was torn more than half way round, but most of the grease was still in it. There was no sign of contamination and it ran smoothly when I turned it by hand. Cleaned it out and saw no pitting or damage, so replaced the boot and reassembled axle. I replaced the seals on my 87 GL a few years ago and it seems like it would be a similar procedure for the Outback. However I don't intend to do it if it is not required. When I put the vehicle back together and lowered it to check the diff oil level it was perfect, so I guess it must not come up to the level of the axle when it is not running.

I pulled the left half-axle on our 2001 Outback 4 cyl AT to replace the inner CV boot, and the stub transaxle came out too. This was a bit disturbing in itself, but more so because no fluid leaked out. We just had the engine replaced, but I assume that the transmission, differential, etc., were not disturbed? I tried to reinsert the stub, but I didn't know how much force was permissible. The snap ring is still on the end. So, should I replace the oil seal, and what is the best way of putting the axle back? The car was running a little rough (could feel vibation through the accelerator pedal) after we got it back a week or so ago, but was smooth before that, so I hope there is no significant damage. Any advice appreciated.

I need to get new tires for a 2001 Outback Wagon. This is a family car driven on long and short trips, mainly in the CA high desert. We have some snow on mountain roads in winter. I don't need ultra-high performance, just safety under normal driving, comfort, and treadlife. Does anyone have any recommendations for all-season tires? I have Michelin Hydroedge on my '97 Saab 900s, and I like those, but I'm not sure if they are still available (they're not at Costco anyway). What about BFGoodrich Traction T/A, or Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, or Michelin Pilot XGT Z4? Any suggestions appreciated.

One more embarassing question -- what's the DOJ ? (I can guess what the BFH is!!)

Please excuse my ignorance, but I would also like some enlightenment on axle removal. I read the post by 'edrach' but still have some questions. As far as I can tell, removing the hub from the axle does not leave you with a free axle. The Haynes manual for my 87 GL HB states that you can remove the axle *with* the steering knuckle, but that you need special tools to remove the knuckle from the axle. The way it was described in the post made it sound like you could take the axle off without removing the steering knuckle . What am I missing? So far I have removed the hub (with a hub puller) and the pin from the axle. I could remove the axle from the stub axle with the lower arm free (the above-mentioned post says to remove the pivot bolt from the arm, but which end?). What do I do next??

Thanks for the tip. Now that you have pointed it out it is obvious!

After my earlier post regarding ignition problems I replaced my coil and ignition amplifier (from junk yard) to no avail. I remade some wires that looked bad and still no luck. Eventually looked at the EFI controller and did not see the LED light up, so I took it apart. Maybe there were some shorted wires to the distributor that damaged the controller? Anyway, I found a 0.5 ohm resistor that looked burnt and I replaced it with a cpuple of 1 ohm resistors in parallel. Now I get the LED lighting up and spark! Anyway, I had the distributer off and need to replace it. I have followed the instructions in the manual but have come to a point that is ambiguous. After setting the #1 cylinder at the top of the compression stroke and the timing at TDC, I am supposed to lign the mark on the spur gear up with that on the distributor body and then insert it into the engine. As you do this the rotor turns because of the spur gear, so the question is: Do I insert the distributor body straight down, or should I rotate it with the shaft? This is not clear from the manual. Thanks, -James

Thanks everyone for the help. Looks like I need to find a junkyard with Subaru parts...

I have an '87 GL 3DR Hatchback 1.8L efi, no turbo. Engine was replaced some years ago and ran fine. Recently had intermittent misses (very occasional) and now it has stopped running altogether. There is no spark from the coil, but the coil is OK (resistance measurements). Distributor cap center contact in bad condition, but new cap and rotor had no effect. I thought it was the ignition control module and ordered one but does not look like mine. Reading posts in this forum it looks as though I am thinking of the ignition amplifier (or igniter??)? My Haynes manual shows distributors with reluctors -- mine has an optical sensor. Questions: Am I looking in the right place? Is there an ignition control module as well as the amplifier? If so where is it? Any hints greatly appreciated. This is my first time on the Forum.