porcupine73

Hi. Maybe go to http://www.endwrench.com, click archives, and search for 4EAT. They have several thorough articles for the 4EAT phase I, which I know has the info you are looking for.

Yes warming the exhaust for a couple minutes has always been the thing that got them to finally break loose after a good Kroiling.

Right on, so don't use vaseline for brakes! Some lubes...

There's a good article on endwrench.com about this issue. There's also some metal lines that can plug up or rust out.

hehe...yes my '96 has that tow hook recall open too. Says if you bump a curb or parking curb with the tow hooks the airbag could go off. Mine are still intact. I used these to pull out my max atv from deep snow last winte.r

Timing belt may have snapped.

Right on, 98. http://www.cars101.com/forester.html#about Introduced in 1998, it shares wheelbase and dashboard with the Subaru Impreza. Only one engine, the 2.5L is available. Turbo starting in 2004.

Subaru says use them on the drive wheels only (if it's front wheel drive) or the front wheels only if it's AWD. Your owners manual will tell what type of chains or cables are permitted. Certain models cannot use them because there isn't enough clearance. Usually it says something about SAE S type chains and then don't exceed 19mph or something like that. I think the assumption is you won't be driving for long periods on dry pavement with the chains on. If you can't find your owners manual, register at my.subaru.com and view it for free (if you have a '95 or later I think it is). Or contact Subaru and if they have the manual they will send it free, at least that's what their web site says. Also cars101.com has info about the chains for soobs.

Hi Bob K. I think that is the illumation level setting. I saw another post like this, and the person I think corrected it by rolling the adjuster forward and back a dozen or so times (to clean the potentiometer/rheostat). Maybe if it's right on the cusp of switching from say 4 to 5, then periodically it does so.

I got the Russell speed bleeders from summitracing.com for my '96 and '00 and they were different sizes. Darn if I can remember which year took what size. I know for the '00 I removed a bleeder, measured the threads, and ordered by size because the application chart didn't list '00. edit: ok I checked my order history and it was 7MM X 1.0, Russell 639570 The other was 10mm x 1.0 Thread Russell 639560 Hm....now way was it... I'm pretty sure the '00 was the 7MM x 1.0 But if you have the GT you might have different calipers than my '00obw.

Yes, the coolant temp sensor (CTS) for the temp gauge is a different sensor from the engine coolant temp sensor (ECTS). The CTS is located right next to the ECTS though.

hehe...right on a 1 is definitely involved! I have noted that the normal hardware store bolts are good for maybe one or two uses in wedging off the rotor or drum. It seems to gall the bolt threads. The drum/rotor I believe is cast iron, which is pretty hard compared to the typical hardware store bolt. Even the bolts from the 'puller' kits bend pretty easily in this job.

22mm or optionally 7/8" 6pt wrench is your friend on this job. On '00obw though, connector might not fit through the wrench, in which case 22mm or 7/8" flare nut wrench would be helpful.

AFIAK this is OK. You should however recheck valve clearances after everything is assembled. Yes you can have intake to exhaust valve interference on that engine.....

Hi. It has a separate DRL bulb? Different year/model but on my '00obw the 'DRL' is simply the high beam head light bulb run at reduced power.

The rotor/drum tapped hole (on OEM parts anyway) is M8. The pitch is standard; I forget if it is 1.0mm or 1.25mm. I think 1.25mm. Right on with the brake bleed order. It is opposite of many other makes.

Probably; I used a purolator one once. You can compare the 'nominal' filtration level if the data is available; usually it's about 20um.

It's not too difficult. It's only two nuts per endlink. You are supposed to replace the nuts as they are captive/self locking, but many people just reuse them and maybe put some blue loctite on them. You might go for something like whiteline endlinks as they are not much more or maybe even less than new OEM endlinks.

Yes Subaru calls for a sealant for the rear diff plugs. Your manual trans drain plug has a copper sealing washer I believe, which is good for at most one use. It is covered in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82095

I have an '00obw too. I think the manual says for chains use only SAE S type chains or something or cables, on the front wheels only, and don't drive more than 19mph with them on. There isn't a lot of extra clearance in the wheels wells for chains.

Any signs of bad battery or ground connections or anything? '00 Outbacks, at least U.S. ones don't have a MAF (they use the MAP speed density thing). Good point about the LPG stuff, unless it has a piggyback controller it seems sometimes running on lpg causes bad memories in the ECu for switching back to petrol.

Which cylinder # is not firing? Here's where the ignitor is on my '96 2.2L...not sure if the location is the same for yours..

Hm...I've seen this posted a couple times before for that era soob and I think in those posts it turned out to be the relay/control circuit.

According to endwrench, unplugging the trans harnesses puts the trans in failsafe mode. The AWD is engaged as it indicates turning a front wheel by hand with it in neutral will make the rear wheel turn as well. The problem I can see with switches is the TCU controls most of the solenoids with varying duty cycles from 5% to 95% at 50Hz; a switch can't really mimic that (unless you're fast!); maybe that's already been addressed in this thread.

When you cycle the key from off to on, how many clicks is that? Do the dash warning lights come on when you go to on?