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Everything posted by porcupine73
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Very carefully. haha sorry that's not that funny is it. Primary methods for the home user are probably injector cleaner such as amsoil redline lucas techron etc xylene acetone toluene naptha in the fuel tank, or a rebuild place such as http://www.witchhunter.com There are those motorvac jobs that run something through the fuel rails; not sure how much benefit there is.
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Gas Leak ??
porcupine73 replied to d_b's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Oh yah good point!!! -
hehe...the axle discusions get almost as heated as the oil discussions. All I know is I have seen at least a dozen posts over time where soobs develop some wierd vibration when stopped at idle in drive or reverse after installing one or more parts store replacement axles. And I have seen people say the vibration then went away when they installed OEM Subaru axles or reinstalled the axles they had on originally. Obviously it doesn't happen to every soob that gets parts store axles. Anyway I'm just throwing it out there as a possibility. It very well might not be the original poster's issue.
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If an aftermarket axle is the issue, it's not a big deal if you can deal with the vibration feeling. If you or the dealer can confirm one or both front axles is not OEM, you could ask for it to be replaced with an OEM reman by the dealer. Parts price on that vehicle would be ~$170 for us to buy (meaning their price is less) which they should be able to eat.
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Hi Porterdog and Sorry to hear about your '92. Do you know if either of the front axles were replaced on this vehicle? Often if they are replaced with aftermarket units i.e. napa etc they will develop the vibration you described. The RH (passenger) may have been replaced due to tear at the right inner cv joint boot (since its near the exhaust). I too am in Buffalo and have an '00 Outback that I love.
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Gas Leak ??
porcupine73 replied to d_b's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Glad it's fixed! Yes the filler pipe is rusty on all my soobs in this salt belt area. -
I don't think the end link bushings can be replaced: I think they're integral to the link itself. Cheapest thing might be a salvage yard part or surely someone on here would part with tbeir old ones. Upgraded aftermarket links such as whiteline (sold in pairs) are not a whole lot more expensive than new OEM.
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Hi. I'd get on top of those MAF codes. Based on these descriptions I'd say when those codes come up, the ECU no longer knows how much air is coming into the engine which makes it tough for it to get the right amount of fuel in there. P1141 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit High Input P1142 Mass Air Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input It may not necessarily be the MAF sensor itself, especially if it's intermittent. It could be a bad wiring connection, harness, or ground back to the ECU MAF input somewhere.
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I resealed mine with the reseal kit. I think the kit to do both fronts or both rears is maybe $30. The only time the reseal kit isn't a good idea is if water got into the piston/caliper bore area and pitted it; then it might just be time for a reman caliper. Right on, you need silicone or some other synthetic based grease. Petroleum based grease swells the rubber parts.