porcupine73

Yikes that's an expensive 'special tool'.

Ok, this article should be nice: 2.5 Liter Twin Cam Engine Vlave Adjustment

Hi. Oh that engine, 2.5L sohc is very reliable. It does have the possibility of the external head gasket peeping leak. Since the previous maintenance history is unknown, it is possible it got abused, low oil, poor quality oil, etc in the past. A couple posts have been thrown rods or other issues in 2.5l sohc but not a lot of posts. Of course with any mechanical device flukes do happen and you may have gotten a 'bad apple' so to speak.

Hi, sorry about that; I think I misread for my first post. How about timing, are you sure that's dead on? One tooth off and it'll have power loss...more than that it probably won't even start. It must be perfect. Also knock sensor can cause some power issues.

If it happens to be 2.5L, there's a complete detailed article on http://www.endwrench.com about it. Not sure if they have the 2.2L article...did '97 2.2L go to solid lifters? My '96 2.2L is hydraulic lifters.

Ok. You need to look into all those code's she's throwing. Triple check connectors, grounds, even if you're sure the connectors are seated, maybe pull them and make sure no pins got bent or anything. Battery connections are clean and tight?

Alrighty, I'll start looking these up. I assume these are all ECU/engine (not transmission codes....) I'll edit as I look up each one. I'm getting this from alldatadiy.com 11 - A faulty crank angle sensor will set code 11 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. 12 - A faulty starter switch will set code 12 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the switch with the diagnostic chart. 13 - A faulty cam angle sensor will set code 13 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. 23 - A faulty air flow sensor will set code 23 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. If an air flow sensor that is incorrect for the vehicle model is installed, code 49 will set (whether the sensor itself is faulty or not). Automatic transmission models use a hot film type air flow sensor and manual transmission models use a hot wire type. These are not interchangeable. 33 - A faulty vehicle speed sensor will set code 33 in the on-board diagnostic system. Refer to the schematic diagram and test the sensor with the diagnostic chart. With all these codes sounds like some connector/ground/etc type issues.

Hm....how does it seem to be idling/running up to 3500 rpm? Normal or rough or... You're sure the fuel lines are correct? Here's the best pics I have of some fuel line hookups...

Hello and welcome! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81925

On that model at least in the U.S. the FWD fuse holder is in the fuse box under the hood near the battery.

What!? I just got it back....

Did someone say Haynes book? sorry...couldn't resist...

Did someone say cam/crank position?

What brand/type plugs do you have in?

Here's a recent one someone did with a press with pics.

This should give you the part # info: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Outback&subcat=Engine+Parts%2C+T+Belt+Pulleys+%26+Tensioners&year=2000

Hm...that trans price seems a bit high. A similar year used USDM 4EAT should be a couple hundred dollars at most?

Wow glad you got it sorted! Good find....the fuel lines....hm.....AH HA!

Right on, 'throwing parts at it' is typically the most expensive and often most time consuming, and frustrating way to go, especially on a problem like this that could have many different causes. Step one is some good old troubleshooting. But since you asked, the ECTS is about $30 I think for the OEM part I don't remember for sure (note there is another sensor right next to the ECTS - which is the CTS but that is for the temp gauge). OEM FPR is about $100 I think it is.

Also to throw a CEL the ECU has to be able to detect a problem. If the sensor is just grossly inaccurate the ECU doesn't know its lying unless maybe it has another sensor to compare the value with or something like that. Like if I ask you what's the temp outside and you tell me 60 deg; I don't know if you're lying or not. If you don't answer at all or tell me something way off base like 200 deg then I know something is wrong. ECTS = engine coolant temp sensor FPR = fuel pressure regulator

Hm...well a fairly simple test would be to remove either the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter going to the engine, put it into a clear bottle or something, then cycle the key from acc to run a couple times waiting a few seconds between operations, and see if you're getting fuel out. In my experience you should get at least say two to four ounces per key cycle. Of course disclaimer here with the fuel flammable spray in the eyes :cool: thing Maybe the line isn't frozen completely closed, just severly blocked, or ditto for the fuel filter. Also did you try holding the throttle like 1/2 way down while starting (not just trying to step on it after starting)? I just say this because sometimes if it's an idle air control issue it will start and run with the throttle held down some but not with no throttle.

Ok, well fuel filter can definitely be something to change as preventative maintenance then anyway. When you move the key from acc to run (but not to start), do you hear the fuel pump come on for a second or two? Maybe you have water in your fuel system that has now frozen?

Nice info, thanks hohieu. That ebay link has a pretty neat animation of how it works. let's see how long this hotlink works....

How's about if you're holding the throttle down like 1/4 - 1/2, does it just die out then too?