porcupine73

Ah ok. I'm getting confused. I thought the original problem was it wouldn't crank at all via the key, but would crank when jumpering to the starter solenoid. If you've got it cranking via the key (with AT selector in neutral anyway, but not park then I take it?) If you have it cranking with the key, and it won't start, then you need to double check everything you disconnected when pulling the motor. i.e. cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, any other harnesses, etc., and that no pins got bent in any connector when reconnecting. Maybe also try starting while holding the gas at like 1/4 or 1/2 to see what happens.

Hi. Also I can't recall if you said you already did it, but did you try starting it with the key, but the shifter in neutral? And congrats on pulling the engine and doing all the seals! That sounds like an involved project. The neutral/park safety switch thing on the autos, at least the ones I've seen, is on the RH (passenger) side, right where the shifter linkage connects. I might have a blurry pic of one here somewhere....

Yes I knicked a few studs on mine when pounding the rotors off. I believe it was an M12x1.25 rethreading die and it worked perfectly with a socket to clean it right back up. Without it I couldn' get the lug nut on because some of the threads rounded over.

This is a schematic for a '94 Legacy; yours should be at least similar.

Ok, now we might be getting somewhere. If it cranks like normal with the jumper method, but just isn't starting, then the starter is fine. If when you have the solenoid wire/connector hooked up to the starter, and you get no crank when putting the key to 'start', then it's something upstream of the starter, such as ignition switch or neutral safety switch or maybe even a fuse of some sort. If you try the jumper method, with the key in run, I think it should start.

Hi ok. When you say "when I touch the wire on the starter that goes to the batt. and the lil tab that sticks up on the starter, I touch then with screw driver and it tries to turn over.." Do you mean with the above method the engine is cranking, just not starting?

Hm...okay, well if you tried the jumper wire to the starter solenoid and already tried starter contacts, then it pretty much has to be one or more of the following: (a) new battery is faulty, ( starter + batt bad connection, © starter ground connection bad, (d) some other internal fault in starter i.e. try different starter.

Typically when they're stuck in there it is because water got in there and rusted the splines into the hub. Assuming of course you've gotten the axle nut off...... If you replace the axle, get a Subaru OEM reman axle or an MWE reman axle. Parts store axles there seem to be a number of posts about issues after using them. Too much torch heat can melt the grease in the wheel bearing and/or melt the seals.

Ah ok...could be the starter contacts then, or a bad + bat or ground connection. The contacts are only a couple dollars, might be able to get them at napa or someplace. There is a good thread on here somewhere with pics of the starter taken apart and the pitted contacts. Didn't look too hard to do.

Next thing I'd try (if you didn't already) is the fused jumper wire from battery + to the starter solenoid and see what happens.

Maybe try starting it with the selector in 'neutral' then. Also maybe try tapping the starter lightly with a hammer and see if that makes a difference. Sometimes when the contacts just start going bad it intermittently won't start and the hammer tap sometimes will get it going.

Hi scoobyleg1 and Is this an auto trans or manual trans? First thing I would try is using say a 20 amp fused jumper wire from the battery + terminal to the starter solenoid and see if it cranks then. If it cranks then the problem is somewhere upstream. If it does not crank then the starter itself may be having an issue. Is the large ground cable from teh battery that connects to one of the starter bolts reconnected? Battery cables nice and clean and tight after the new battery install? Battery passes load test?

Not sure why this would impact mileage. It uses fuel temp to know when to run the integrity test. It basically makes sure you have no leaks in the fuel system, which would allow raw fuel in the atmosphere. In an endwrench article for enhanced evap soobs it says: To test the integrity of the [fuel] system, the system shuts off all access of the tank to the outside atmosphere. [then a bunch of other steps]. The testing of this system is only conducted once per drive cycle and only under very specific conditions: • The fuel tank must contain less than 9.6 gallons of fuel. • The fuel temperature must be less than 113°F. • Engine speed must be over 1500 RPM. • Vehicle speed over 28 MPH. • Throttle position must be mid-range. • Intake manifold vacuum must be equivalent to cruising vacuum. • 455 seconds must have elapsed since engine start.

Ok good fix and thanks for the update! I can't update my previous post because it's too old, but the ECU uses the fuel temp sensor input to know when it can do the evap fuel system integrity test.

First you have to get tires that say 'studdable'. Then you have to find a tire shop that is willing to stud them. Tire installers had doing studs because it is a pain to install all those little things in four tires. It might be illegal to sell studded tires in your area maybe. I got them a couple years ago here in NY; but it's like a $500 fine if you run them outside the alloted dates of November something to March something I think it is. Studded snows main advantage is on ice, that's where they shine. They tend to have longer stopping distances than good snow tires on almost any other condition.

Hi. I have been noticing an increased number of such posts now that it's getting colder outside. Sometimes it turns out to be one of the several short (1-2" long) rubber fuel lines underneath the intake manifold.

Hi Tide13. Not sure if you mean for SuperRu or for me, but for the '96 no I havne't noticed much of any change im mileage. I did, however, notice a lack of power for take off on my '96 with the larger tires installed. Others have said they notice no difference when larger tires are used, but there is a difference. It seemed slightly underpowered before. Now it seems reallllyyyy underpowered!

Wow.....sounds nice to have all those takeoff's from an H6...so I take it the H6 is hottttt t too!

All I can saw is...wow! The more I see of that style the more I like it. Congrats on the new soob!

Wow SuperRu that is hott! Looks great. Yes I have some 225/60R16 xice on my '96 now, and they do rub sometimes in the turns, but not enough (yet) to make me take them off.

mm...I don't think so but I could be wrong. Common causes of soob misfire on that era are (a) non NGK spark plugs, ( non OEM spark plug wires or old spark plug wires, © carbon buildup or other cause of valves not closing complety.

Congrats on getting Blu back nipper! He does look to be in his glory once again.

2000 Outback wagon 2.5L ..... 120,000 miles zero coolant leaks, and counting! Also '96 and '94 Legacy but those have the 2.2L's.

Check out http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html or the owners manual should have it in there somewhere too. I think yours is the code alarm.

Not sure about any 'universal aftermarket' units, but these are always available on ebay.