porcupine73

Look at the label carefully. GM is not renewing Dexron licenses anymore, so products will start saying 'for applications formerly calling for dexron' etc. (They can't really say Dexron without the license). Or check out mobil1 web site it will tell you the applications for all the products.

The other axle nut part # has a 1 at the end; I think the other is the 'olive' color; this is the gold color. I don't know what the difference is other than color but the service manual calls for one for the front and the other for the rear.

Right on...: Give not that which is holy unto the dogs, neither cast ye your pearls before swine, lest they trample them under their feet, and turn again and rend you. :Matthew 7:6

My guess would be it can run petrol or LPG.

Subaru calls for Threebond 1105 (can find here though I see you're in Australia...), or alternatively 3M T-3 silicone which is probably available at the parts stores. I have used sealant (permtex ultra grey) and have not used sealant and haven't had any leaks either way. You should use a sealant because the threads are tapered, sort of like threaded pipe. The taper is what keeps the plug from being driven all the way into the diff. It's not a straight thread like on a bolt. So even when in at the ideal number of threads of engagement there is still a potential leak path between the thread crest and roots.

Did some searching and found out "the Subaru B11S was unveiled at the 73rd (2003) International Geneva Motor Show." The front grill looks very much like that used on the Tribeca. http://www.motortrend.com/features/auto_news/112_news030304_sub/ Combining sophisticated sporty design with ample interior space, the Subaru B11S represents a new type of four-door coupe. While it was developed to demonstrate FHI's future design direction and its strengthened design capabilities, the Subaru B11S also promises superb driving performance, ensured by a five-speed transmission with VTD (variable torque distribution, Subaru's unique, electronically controlled torque distribution system), symmetrical AWD, and a horizontally-opposed six-cylinder engine.

That should work. The only real difference could maybe possibly be the offset of the wheels. Even then if they're like +40-+55mm it should stil work. http://www.cars101.com would have more info.

I think you're in valet mode. http://www.cars101.com has all the info about how to work the thing. My '00obw has the code alarm; not sure if that's what you have, but on that one to get in/out of valet mode, you close all the doors, then open the drivers door, then hold unlock for about three seconds.

Hi as far as I know only the turbo ECUs support access ports such as Cobb. Maybe give engine a good seafoaming, make sure brakes aren't sticking etc. If you live in an area that switches to winter blend gasoline that will make mileage worse. Especially if the two tests you did were recent; I think most areas switch to winter gas around early/mid november. Ethanol reduced mileage too. Actually that is not really too bad a mileage for the H6 at those speeds 65-75 mph. I believe the H6 has two front o2 sensors. H6 came only with auto trans.

http://www.cars101.com would have the programming info. Sounds like you had a bad connection at a battery terminal. The alt by design responds a little bit slowly to load changes hence the voltage dropping so much at a sudden load i.e. the brake lamps.

Yes, especially the junk parts store rebuilt alts. Does your battery pass the load test?

Thanks for the info. Yes I like Blizzaks too. I can make my shimmy problem above 60mph go away by making a good sharp left turn. Then it's fine until I make a sharp right turn and the shimmy above 60mph returns. I think right front tire because it was shimmying bad, I swapped in a different tire (snow tire), the shimmy was completely gone, put the original tire back on, and the shimmy was back.

I think you're only supposed to run tires for six years max, much increased risk of blowout after six years?

ewww ok that does sound bad. In addition to whatever leak fix they do, I would definitely push for a new power steering pump, especially if you can document (i.e. take pictures when you get to the dealer - especially showing low/no fluid in the reserviour). The pump is not cheap and running it without fluid is not good.

Ok I didn't realize the serp belt was already replaced. The belt itself is what probably 105k mile interval (that's what the H4 accessory belts are). Anyway they probably didn't replace the tensioner/idler; there would be no reason for them to do so unless it failed. It's just I've seen a few posts where they just break off or something. Prestone as far as I know is an OAT coolant (like dexcool) that Subaru says not to use in Subaru's. Many people do run it though. It is important to check your coolant level by removing the rad cap (not just looking in the overflow tank) periodically, as air in with OAT coolants makes this silty stuff form on the metal parts, then the coolant washes it away and makes this gloppy clogging result.

How does the steering feel in normal driving? It's not uncommon for some vehicles go groan or feel tight when turning the wheel while stopped, especially if on pavement. If you mean you are turning the wheel to lock (as far as it will go) and holding it there you will definitely hear some noise as the pump internal pressure relief valve will open. Visually it is hard to tell if a tire is soft. The TPMS lamp comes on if any tire pressure drops below about 27psig. Now that temps are dropping your tires probably need a bit more air; ideally check them when cold or vehicle hasn't been driven more than a few miles.

I think Subaru specifies that bleed order as it has the best shot at getting any air in the lines out in one bleed of all four wheels. If there is already no air in the lines, especially near the master cylinder, then the bleed order is probably not so important. When TCS, VDC, and ABS are involved it can be more steps and the order may be more important especially if air is trapped in the hydraulic unit. Nonetheless, if the bleed order were not important Subaru would not specify a particular sequence.

No that's not the right bleed order for Subaru. Haynes manual is wrong. That is the bleed order for many domestic vehicle makers but not Subaru. Here's an article about bleeding Subaru brakes: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/BrakeFluidSumm02.pdf

This is an H6 so no timing belt to worry about. Do NOT let the vehicle overheat (i.e. maybe replace thermostat WITH OEM now....overheating is not good for the water pump seals either). What brand/type coolant did you put in? I think you've hit the hilights. Check out the service/maintenance schedule and take special note of any 'severe service' etc items noted. Flush power steering fluid (it's Dexron II/III just like the ATF) (turkey baster method works; just do it like half a dozen times). Also I would replace your serpentine accessory drive belt and tensioner/idler now. Replace tensioner/idler because I have seen a few posts about those failing on the H6. Maybe replace your ATF filter (on H6 it's remote mounted in the LH (driver) side fender).

Hi. In this recent tuneup, were NGK plugs and OEM spark plug wires used? That era soob sometimes doesn't like other plugs or wires too well and will startup with the P0301 to P0304 (cylinder misfire #1 to #4) codes.

The most straightfoward route might be to run a used 2.2L. '95 might be tricky as Subaru started ODBII in '95 though it wasn't required until '96. For top of the line you could check out http://www.ccrengines.com If you're planning to rebuild it yourself you could get parts from a Subaru dealer who sells parts online; there are many. However if it threw a rod do you have a hole in the block?

The knock sensor code is making it run rough. The knock sensor code always indicates a problem with the knock sensor circuit. It never indicates the ECU is detecting knock. So it is retarding timing to the max, and that causes poor fuel economy, lost power, and possibly rough idling.

Hi bansheercr. I'm assuming you're talking about resealing the oil pump. The Subaru alternative is Permatex Ultra Grey RTV. Anaerobic sealant is a great product but is harder to use successfully than RTV; hence I think why Subaru says RTV. Yes while you are doing this job it is prudent to do/check depending on age/mileage a number of things including front cam seals, crank seal, oil pump rear case screws for backing out, cam retainer o-rings if the engine has them, replace water pump, replace geared/toothed idler near water pump and check the other idlers. Oil pump o-ring part #/style varies depending on engine/year.

You should measure the tire circumference. They should all match within 1/4". Visually you will never notice 1/4" circumference difference.

Haven't heard of it before but I don't have a MT. Meeting OEM specs (like dimensions, surface finish, etc) and actually being OEM quality are two different things.