porcupine73

hehe...too late for that. All the new ones are already installed. I used the yellow Scorpion/King Springs. I still have the new Legacy springs I was sent (though I ordered Outback springs); will probably use those on my '94. I might have some pics of the OEM legacy spring side by side with the Scorpion spring but I"d have to look. Anyway in the pic both struts are fully extended.

Banana perhaps! Fortunately Subaru is just assembling the Camry's in Indiana at this point, not engineering them..... although AFIAK Toyota owns some portion of Subaru now. Better than when GM owned a portion though no doubt (in my opinion).

Sweet! No problem flat towing it then all wheels on the ground. Sounds like it should be back in top condition with a new engine!

That should have the phase I 2.5L dohc. If it's an auto trans don't just tow it behind another vehicle or anything; get a flatbed.

The PCV valve is typically on the intake manifold right near the throttle body. As with most parts you are generally better off paying the extra couple dollars and getting the Subaru OEM part.

Well if you've never replaced it just put on a new oem one; they're about $7. People tell me if you remove the old one and it rattles, it should be good. If it's all gunked up in there you can either replace it or some people try to clean them out. I believe on my soobs it takes a 22mm or if not available a 7/8" wrench to get it out.

Ok finally actually getting around to doing this changeout! Unfortunately it turned out that, although I specifically ordered OUTBACK springs, the dealer sent me Legacy springs anyway. So I ended up getting Scorpion springs for a '96 Outback from Renick a few months ago. Here's a comparison pic of one of the front stock original strut assemblies (note the 'spring guard' for that recall about the spring fracturing and puncturing the tire):

Hi obskermit and congrats! A common thing to check for mysterious oil consumption is PCV valve. For the timing belt and water pump, also replace the geared/toothed timing belt idler near the water pump. At least inspect the other idlers and tensioner for wear/freeplay/etc for possible replacement. Front crank seal on oil pump, front cam seals, cam cap o-rings (assuming that year 2.2L still has them). Possibly reseal oil pump and replace discharge o-ring and while pump is out check rear case cover screws for backing out (was more a problem on earlier engines) and loctite them in.

Yes it is just a cap with an o-ring in there; very easy to replace. There is also a cam cap on the LH, at least on this 2.2L:

Glad it's running smoothly. Yes ATF gets dirty, oxidizes, shears, etc. so at 86k it's definitely not a bad idea to get fresh in there. It holds maybe 10-12 quarts; the 16 quarts must've been the total they passed through the system, you know a few extra to help push out all the old.

According to http://www.cars101.com 2007 Outback 2.5i, Limited, XT, LL Bean- 17x7jj, offset 48, alloy, tire pressure monitoring 2007 Legacy 2.5i, Limited- 17x7jj, offset 55

You wouldn't swap in an older engine, at least not earlier than '95 anyway, because of ODBI/ODBII issues. Also if you have/do not have EGR it helps if the replacement engine is the same. I'd imagine grossgary would be veery helpful on this project.

I would suspect your scan tool is not reporting the value. If you were really getting a reading of zero I would imagine you would have a CEL/MIL.

There is an article on http://www.endwrench.com about this. Can find it if desired.

Hi. AFIAK it is sometimes sulfur buildup on the sending unit. Some people report good results with a couple stiff doses of Techron. I've been using Lucas UCL and Redline SI and I have no fuel gauge issues in any of 3 soobs so I'm not sure.

Hi. I see only one camshaft position sensor and one crankshaft position sensor... 22056AA062 SENSOR CAMSHAFT ASSEMBLY 1995-2004 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.2 & 2.5 for cars produced upto 2 of 2004 (about $50 from Subaru dealers who sell parts online - sounds like it is the same or cheaper than aftermarket plus you can get the OEM part! Anytime you order from a Subaru dealer just give your VIN and they know all your parts based on that.) 22053AA052 SENSOR, CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY 1995-1999 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.2 & 2.5 ALL (about $31) (extra info you didn't ask for but I thought I'd post anyway....)

Labor shouldn't be too bad. The covers are easy to R&R on that era 2.2L; only 3 bolts holding the valve cover in place. You can get a Subaru kit with the valve cover gaskest and bolt hole washers. The biggest tip I can offer is clean thoroughly around the valve covers before removing them. Any grit promptly falls onto the valvetrain when removing the covers. Here's some pics.

My soobs run quietest on amsoil TRO 20W-50 racing oil. Have run it in Buffalo winters without any issues; a little slow cranking at startup maybe but started up nonetheless.

Hm...when you say seam, do you mean timing belt cover (near the radiator fans)? If so it could be the water pump seal has given up its special seal, and oil may be leaking in from a cam and/or crank seal leak thus yielding a special mix leaking out.

Sorry I don't know the magic number but I know there is a note on endwrench.com about exactly what you mentioned.

From any movie I've seen, aluminum foil would be the way to go. Ideally whatever keeps foreign matter from getting in there is good; you know bugs, mice, voles, etc.

Hi nipper I hope your trip is going well! hehe sorry to make work for you. Actually I'm not sure if the brake bands are adjustable with the external lock/adjust nut on all phase I 4eats?...might have to check out the 4eat service manual to see. Hi rverdoold. It does look like a pain to do the adjustment. I don't know if its bad to drive it like that.

Well I was just looking into this for my '94, which seems to have a braking/slowing effect on the 2-3 upshift and slow 3-2 downshifts. The manual says... Adjustments If engine speed increases abruptly on 2-3 shift, or if there is a delay of more than 1 second on a 3-2 kickdown, excessive clearance between reverse clutch drum and band may exist, adjusting screw should be rotated clockwise. If there is a braking action on 2-3 shift, excessive small brake band clearance may exist and adjusting screw should be rotated counterclockwise. If slipping occurs on a 2-3 shift, excessive small brake band clearance may exist. If transmission shifts directly from 1st to 3rd, excessive large brake band clearance may exist. This is not an easy adjustment to do from what I know as the adjust and locknut thing is in a hard to access area. There is an article on http://www.endwrench.com about how to access the adjuster (for U.S. spec vehicles anyway)...

If it's the 2-3 upshift and downshifts that are at issue, maybe the brake band clearance needs adjusting.