porcupine73

If the code(s) are P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 or any combination and you haven't had any issues with misfire lately I'd just have the codes cleared as it may have just been temporary from the oil burning, if that's what the issue was.

Flashing CEL was probably cylinder misfire. Not sure but my guess is maybe oil seeped into the cylinders or something from the very steep angle of parking, hence the smokiness for a short period?

No, that is only for the phase II 4EAT that has the spin on filter on the side of the trans case (or for H6 models remote mounted in the LH fender). Your '90 filter is more of a fuel filter looking item with hose barb connections. Check this out: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=10336

Hi starsea. Go with Subaru OEM reman from Subaru dealer or MWE axles. New OEM Subaru is available but they're much more $$$. Many posts about people having some strange vibration issues after installing either new or reman autoparts store axles. There was just one on another board where a guy had this issue with the 'new' napa axles and he put back in his original alxe and the weird vibration was gone. Not saying this happens to everyone who uses autoparts store soob axles, and of course correlation does not prove causation.

Hi billyfrank. If you go to http://www.wixfilters.com you can get the Wix part #, also available at Napa as Napa gold and at Carquest and some other places. The filter thread size and pitch are the same as the engine oil filter.

Here's some part # based info on the #'s you listed; difference in msrp is maybe $15. 10104AA060 reman ENGINE GASKET KIT COMPLETE FOR 1997-1999 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5 includes headgasket set, engine seals, orings, washers & gaskets (this kit does not include valve cover gaskets) NOTE this kit is for use with subaru reman block only) 10105AA401 ENGINE GASKET KIT COMPLETE FOR 1997-1999 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5 ALL includes headgasket set, valve cover gaskets, engine seals, orings, washers & gaskets

Are you sure the timing belt has not broken?

Yes you should be good to go HG wise on an '04; or on any H6.

hehe...yes I've seen a blue '08 5-door wrx around my area few times. The first few times I saw it I had no idea what make/model the vehicle was, but for some reason my mind thought maybe Subaru. Yep that's what it is. It is definitely different. The somewhat relatively long hood (in my eye; doesn't look so much so in the pic but in person it seemed longer) in comparison to the rest of the body stood out to me.

Hm..not sure. Maybe since your '98 is a relatively late build they switched to the '99 parts; not sure? 12108AA290 BEARING SET FOR CONNECTING ROD FOR 1999 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS 2.5

Good info! So how do you know you have an inner tie rod problem? Is there noticeable looseness or anything?

12108AA530 BEARING SET FOR CONNECTING ROD FOR 1996-1998 LEGACY OUTBACK 2.5 (oversize also available).

Hi gcleeton. If it's flashing 16 times on startup, you need to read the code(s) to find out what solenoid/circuit the TCU thinks has issues.

If you can get the plastic thing in the wheel well out, you can access that wiring fairly easily. I only know because that plastic wheel well guard fell out on my '96 after I bumped a curb and all that wiring is plain to see up in there.

I think there is an article on endwrench.com about this issue...let me have a looksee and report back... edit: ok, might not be related but could be something to check: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Fuse4Blow.pdf

Hi blaze and to the board! Here's some part # info...appears to be different depending on build date... 12209AA000 BEARING SET FOR CRANKSHAFT FOR 1995-1998 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS ALL 2.2 & 2.5 (item (FOR CARS PRODUCED UPTO 10 of 97) (oversize sets available if needed) 12209AA160 BEARING SET FOR CRANKSHAFT FOR 1998 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS 2.5 ALL (FOR 98 CARS PRODUCED AFTER 10 of 97) (oversize sets available if needed)

Hi. Often they seem frozen just because the old grease has cooked and become hardened. If there wasn't enough grease in there, or the boots weren't sealing properly etc, then any water that gets in there promptly rusts them in place. So I'd start by getting the old guide and lock pins out and see what they look like. btw, what year vehicle is this on? Earlier legacies/outback used a little different setup than say ~2000+. Here's a diagram just for reference; this is from a '96 legacy:

Here's some info about how to get the emissions I/M's to set to ready after clearing codes or replacing battery, etc: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6301

Ok, friction modifier. Well yes apparantley at some point in the past in an issue of T.I.P.S. newsletter Subaru did say you could add some limited slip friction modifier (normally used in limited slip differentials with clutch type mechanisms) to deal with torque bind. However that was like early to mid 90's maybe. I'm all for putting in fresh quality ATF with a flush. I would put in that shudder guard only maybe if you are experiencing torque binding problems; otherwise you could always add it later if desired.

Hi skybren. Yes I have a '94 Legacy too! These 2.2L's, with mileage/age, have a number of possible engine oil leak points front cam seals front crank seal - can also be oil pump rotor cover screws backing out and directing some oil out the front crank seal LH cam front support o-ring If you see the bottom of the timing belt covers a bit 'wet' with oil, there is most likely a leak in the above mentioned areas rear main seal valve covers RH cam rear support o-ring I have some pics of these various items if needed.

What's the mileage? I'd give it a good going over for torque bind, head gasket signs, etc. Check the ATF; the 'trans slipping' could be as simple as low fluid level.

If you can get/borrow/beg/buy/etc a scangauge or similar scantool, you can read what the ECU is reading from the engine coolant temp sensor (next to the coolant temp sensor for the gauge). If the ECU reading still appears normal when the gauge goes bezerk then you know it's something with the gauge or sender. If the ECU reading goes high when the gauge goes high then you've got bigger issues.

Ok well it can be worth a shot. The worst that can happen is they tell you it can't pass because the readiness monitors aren't set. In some areas actually if that's the only problem you can get an inspection extension. I guess it depends on what exactly your area's emissions inspection covers. I know here in NY all the relevant I/M's have to be set. '02 is going to be enhanced evap. In my experience the code that takes the longest to set is the evap I/M because of the pressure/integrity test, so the fuel tank has to have less than 9.6 gallons fuel or something, fuel temp has to be a certain thing, etc. for the ECU to run the test and set the evap monitor to ready. Oh yes one exception is many '96 soobs. They reset all the I/M's to not ready every time the vehicle is turned off, so they are exempted from the I/M readiness requirement.

Hi lorimansell. Sorry to hear about the check engine light (CEL) problem. Yes the first thing is we need to know what code(s) are being read, such as P0420. That is the first step. Even if the light is not on when you go to autozone some codes they can read out of the history. If you reset the CEL/MIL (malfunction indicator lamp), you most likely will not pass an emissions inspection. Resetting the lamp resets all the emissions inspection monitors (I/M's) to 'not ready'. They must be 'ready' to pass an ODBII emissions inspection. It takes several drive cycles and miles of driving to get it to do all the tests/etc it needs to do to set those to 'ready' and so the CEL/MIL may come back on before that is complete. Also you really need a scantool to know when the monitor's have went to 'ready'; if you go for the inspection and they're not 'ready' it will fail the test.

edit: moved my reply to lorimansell here -> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=669220