porcupine73

Wynn's makes a 'shudder guard' product: http://www.wynnsusa.com/pdf/557xx.pdf I have no idea why a Subaru dealer would be installing/using this stuff as part of a flush.

hehe fill ATF, drain wallet, etc. If the AT is functioning properly all it wants is good fresh quality ATF. What is /shudder guard'? Is that a lubeguard product?

Are you seeing any arcing in there if it's dark out whilst cranking?

Hi gcleeton. Maybe you could try the code read procedure in this post to see what the issue is. It's fairly straightfoward. Hi newsance. The factory manual lists a host of voltages and resistances, etc. to check. This code has to do with the TCU telling the ECU it wants to shift, and the ECU telling the TCU it has reduced torque (by retarding timing and other things) so it can shift. edit: (purpose is to reduce shift shock)

Oh those green terminals. No those aren't the ones the diagram is talking about. You need to locate the black B82 connector, then pull it down and have a look at it. You should see the item #12 in the diagram 'diagnosis wires' taped up in the harness; they have bare little metal silvery pins on the ends of them. You might have to pull tape back or cut it to get at them. Or just use a piece of wire and ground it yourself.

Yes both of the diagnosis terminals, #12 in that pic, are ground. They provide two because in some cases you need to ground two terminals to perform functions other than reading the code.

#12 in that pic - those two diagnosis terminals - those are grounded wires you can use. You can use your own grounded wire too of course. If they've never been used before, those grounded diagnosis terminals will be taped up into the harness so you have to pull them out; the connector itself might be taped close to the wiring loom too. Some people have however in the past stuck the grounded 'diagnosis terminal' into the wrong connector or terminal and blown fuses.

From the http://www.endwrench.com 4EAT phase I diagnosis&service article: 1995-98 Legacy, 1996-98 Impreza, 1996-97 SVX, 1998 Forester, Diagnostics (OBD -II Vehicles) The AT Oil Temperature light operates under the following conditions: Ignition switch ON/engine OFF is the bulb check mode, the light remains ON. Normal: Ignition switch ON/ Engine ON, light remains on for two seconds from engine start. Note: A failure is never reported via the AT oil temp light during current operation.The TCU waits until the next ignition cycle to display the following AT oil temp light condition.Therefore the driver may detect an abnormal driveability condition (fail safe operation) with no AT oil temp light indicating a failure. Abnormal - With the ignition switch ON and the engine running, the light remains ON for 2 seconds from engine start. OFF for 0.25 seconds, ON for 0.25 seconds 4 times, then OFF for 2 seconds. Cycle repeats 4 times for a total of 16 Blinks. Abnormal - ATF Temperature is too high The AT temp light comes ON and stays ON until the ATF temperature returns to normal. Trouble Codes Trouble code retrieval is similar to previous models, except for grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column. Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU. They are displayed in the same format as old fuel system trouble codes, long Flash = 10, short flash = 1. For example: 2 long and 4 short = code 24, Duty Solenoid C. The clear memory procedure is simple and quick, just remove fuse No. 14 for at least one minute. OBD-II Operation Overview The system monitors components and their operation, conducting continuity and performance checks. The check engine light or MIL illuminates when a code is set into ECU memory. Problems with the 4EAT are communicated from the TCU to the ECU. There are 2 trouble codes that are generated as soon as a problem occurs, turning on the MIL.With 22 others requiring a fault or error during two consecutive trips, before turning on the MIL. A trip is defined as a driving pattern in which test parameters are reached for a given time. A failed trip will be erased if the next trip is a good one. Transmission codes generated in OBD-II have freeze frame information available on the Select Monitor in the fuel system section of data display.

Oh I didn't take note of your location. The endwrench info is valid for U.S. and maybe Canada spec vehicles only. It might apply to soobs built for other regions but it can't be guaranteed.

Here's a few excerpts from the http://www.endwrench.com 4EAT phase I article: The light controls indicate operating conditions to the driver. They indicate the POWER mode, manually selected 1st or 2nd gear, or hot ATF (AWD only). On 1990 and later Legacy models, the light controls indicate hot ATF (FWD and AWD), gears 3 -2 - 1, MANUAL mode and POWER mode. ATF temperature warning light was used on AWD vehicles only indicates overheating ATF. See description of TCU inputs for control unit logic in response of hot ATF. The Power indicator was a frame that illuminates around the word POWER on the combination meter. Activation logic of the power mode is the same as later models. ATF temperature warning light is provided on both FWD and AWD vehicles. It is activated by the TCU indicating overheated ATF.The TCU logic will shift the transaxle as if in the power mode, moving more ATF volume through the cooler. The indicator light was discontinued in the 1993 model year, but the logic for controlling hot ATF remained. Starting in the 1995 model year, the HOT ATF indicator light was reintroduced. It performs the same as in the past, with an added function.When the vehicle is started, it is lit momentarily. If it is flashing when the vehicle is started, this indicates the TCU has detected an electrical failure. When the TCU is programmed to do so, it will flash a trouble code to assist in diagnostics.

Yes I just did this job on '96 Legacy and it took a while to get the bottom nut off. I tried from underneath but no good, just not enough room to work. Once I finally realized there was enough room to swing a wrench from up top there with the washer tank out of the way it was easier. I was also replacing the heater hoses, so having those out of the way helped too. Just curious, did you use a reman starter from Subaru?

Should be a solid vehicle. Some had an a/c issue which was relatively simple fix I think with the a/c compressor rotation/speed sensor or something. Some of these have had failure of the accessory serpentine belt tensionser (that drives the a/c compressor, ps pump, alternator), so I would look at it and maybe just replace it now. Oh and like any AWD soob check for torque bind and make sure all tires match. Might want to make sure it doesn't take too long to engage into drive when cold as well, though that was more a 99-00 issue.

Maybe also see if there is any arcing off the spark plug wires; if so replace wires.

haha yes on some of those prices it's like no, I just want one, not a bag of 10....oh that is the price for one...whew I need to sit down for a minute. I used GR-2's on '00obw and '96 legacy and yes I don't think they came with nuts for the rear strut mounts to strut either. Some of them were loose in the box and some were lightly screwed onto the top of the strut but I don't remember the details. The M8x1.25 are the three nuts for the strut mount to body.

On my soobs the wheel studs/lug nuts are M12x1.25 pitch so I don't think lug nuts would work anyway. The strut to bearing housing nuts are self locking/one time use. If using an ace hardware nut, I would go with the 10.9 grade flange nut (approx sae grade 8); I would not use anything that says 8.8 (more like sae grade 5). The OEM nuts are about $7 ea. IIRC; these are a pretty important fastener so I'd buy the OEM is possible. The strut mount nuts I think were M8x1.25 pitch, again self locking. edit: also the OEM nuts are typically yellow zinc dichromate plated which seems to be fairly corrosion resistant; not sure about hardware store coatings.

I was bored so I copied some info from cars101.com Brakes: 4 channel Anti-lock - Heavy duty, dual caliper piston 10.7" front disk, 11.3" rear disc. new all 2001 Outbacks get larger front, 11.4-inch ventilated disc brakes with twin-piston calipers

Hi. Here's the location from my '94 2.2L. If you follow that hose you'll see the IACV/ISV there (well not in this pic of course because the plastic engine decoration is in place). Here's how I clean mine; seems to work pretty well without even removing the IACV/ISV: 1. remove IACV intake hose from air intake snorkus 2. run engine at idle (may make system a little upset as idle airflow is not passing through MAF at this point; I haven't had any problems though). 3. give a dozen or two short blasts of throttle body cleaner into the iacv intake hose. Engine will die out if you give too much of a blast.

Right on, go with OEM thermostat, which is very stout in comparison to aftermarket. Also you need the rubber gasket that goes around the thermostat. Thermostat is in the housing circled in red below:

Hi. Closest manual I have is for '00obw. DTC P0133 - FRONT OXYGEN (A/F) SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fault Loose installation of front portion of exhaust pipe onto cylinder heads Loose connection between front exhaust pipe and front catalytic converter Damage of exhaust pipe resulting in a hole CHECK: Is there a fault in exhaust system? YES: Repair exhaust system. NO: Replace front oxygen (A/F) sensor. (Note by porc: OEM sensor is highly suggested, not aftermarket) The front o2 could also be causing your P0420, catalyst efficiency below threshold (could also be exhaust leak causing both). P1442 is an emissions code; the ECU doesn't know when to perform the fuel system integrity/pressure test without this signal. DTC P1442 - FUEL LEVEL SENSOR CIRCUIT RANGE/PERFORMANCE PROBLEM 2 DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fault CAUTION: After repair or replacement of faulty parts, conduct CLEAR MEMORY MODE and INSPECTION MODE. Refer to How To Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes. 11CJ1: CHECK ANY OTHER DTC ON DISPLAY CHECK: Does the Subaru Select Monitor or OBD-II general scan tool indicate DTC P0461, P0462 or P0463? YES: Inspect DTC P0461, P0462 or P0463 using "11. Diagnostics Chart with Trouble Code for AT Vehicles". NOTE: In this case it is not necessary to inspect this trouble. NO: Replace fuel level sensor and fuel sub level sensor.

The brake flex hose connections can be tricky. I heat 'em up, soak 'em with penetrating oil, then apply 10mm flare nut wrench and use a set of vise grips to secure the flare nut wrench securely. crapsman and similar flare nut wrenches will open up under severe stress which rounds off the fastener. If you need to replace a caliper, you don't have to mess with these; you just pull the 10mm banjo bolt from the caliper and use new sealing washers.

Does messing with the parking brake handle make any difference? What's your voltage when the brake light is on? Sometimes the brake light can indicate an alternator getting ready to crater, since the brake and other warning lights get their ground through the alternator field circuit.

You may be able to get caliper brackets from a soob that came with smaller wheels and maybe they will fit your current calipers. Otherwise you could get calipers and brackets that are smaller from a soob that came with smaller wheels and hopefully the bracket will match up to the bearing housing. Plus of course you need smaller rotors then too. Ideally you'd do the rear too to keep it balanced.

Hm ok, not sure why it won't unlock/lock then. I find the key lock/unlock not helpful on my '00obw as it sets of the alarm unless it's in valet mode. Sounds like you have some soobs that have taken a likin' and kept on tickin'! Good story about the window getting smashed out when the door was unlocked anyway...reminds me of that episode of cops where the guy threw a cinder block at a drugstore window....but it was lexan and the brick bounced back and hit him in the face. Yes we're not that far apart. I'm in Angola. I work in Tonawanda. Sounds like we probably cross paths and don't even realize it. I just found a Buffalo/Rochester/WNY specific soob board the other day; haven't quite yet gotten a feel for its atmosphere.... http://www.buffaloscooby.com