porcupine73

Can you spin the key in a complete circle? I think that's the common symptom of the rod having popped off the cylinder.

Power steering hoses. There is a TSB or article on endwrench for this year vehicle about this clunking sound. I have a vague imprecise feeling in my '00obw over certain bumps; the back end as it drops back to the ground tends to swing slightly left or slightly right but is unpredicatble.

Using propane injection with diesel is a known way to get way more power output. Does his MPG include the cost of the other fuel?

Can you unlock the door with the key? If it doesn't work at all, there is this rod that goes from the lock cylinder that might be off.

haha right on, Harbor Freight. This caliper is seemingly very well built for the low price, esp on sale.

Ok, I finally got a round to measuring the OEM spring pin, and it is 0.25" diameter, drats forgot to check the length....

Here's some popular synthetic oil blenders; google will get you there: redline, amsoil, schaeffer oil, neo synthetics, torco, motul

Hi. Yes I just did a 2.2L timing belt and noticed a similar thing on the LH cam pulley. It looked to be a little too far cw to the indent on the timing belt cover. However, the marks on the timing belt were perfectly aligned with the dashes on the sprockets. When I pulled the tensioner, the LH cam moved slightly ccw and then it was right on. So basically I think you start with the cams aligned to the points on the timing cover, then hang the new belt and make sure the teeth counts/marks on the belt are correct with the hashes on the cam sprockets and you're good. And the crank sprocket too of course. The tooth counts are the important thing. edit: also are you using an OEM belt? Those marks seem to be dead on; not sure about aftermarket belt marks.

Intermittent problems like that are the hardest to find. Glad it's fixed!

Yes many of the items call for inspection only, but if you look at the 'footnotes', there are exceptions for various items for 'severe duty' including towing, cold weather operation, dusty conditions, short trips, etc. You can view the sched. at http://www.subaru.com and click 'owners' from the top menu. For fuel injector cleaners I like Lucas UCL with some RedLine SI~1 mix. I add a little bit at EVERY fillup. The detergent pack of even 'top tier' fuels is lacking.

hehehe "owner of said tires slid into back of vehicle in front due to emanation of orange oil esters from the tires, which caused a slippery condition between tires and road surface. But it smelled good doing it."

It's a fairly simple job. I just did it on '96 Legacy to get rid of that rogue napa alt. The only real 'issue' was the alt is somewhat heavy and my somewhat out of wack back didn't appreciate dead lifting it.

Ok, will do. Not sure what to make of it. It is confusing. These pirelli tires don't have a ton of tread left anyway so am considering new ones and an alignment; unfortunately I think I missed the $100 discounttiredirect.com discount.....oh well may see who Nile recommends.

Ew that doesn't sound good. Sounds like a potential wiring issue to me. Have you checked for any blown fuses? I might look later to see if the same fuse feeds the drain battery switch and the parking lamps normally. Maybe I would read the ABS code(s) to see if that reveals anything?

Yes it's kind of like a toggle switch. Make hard left esp over railroad tracks, then happily drive vehicle above 60mph no shimmy, can start/stop, sit overnight etc., but curse the time I make a sharp right, then go over 60mph, shimy is there, until I can find opportunity to make sharp hard left again.

It seems if I make a hard left turn, especially over railroad tracks, then the shimy is gone above 60mph. If I make a hard right turn, boom, nasty shimmy is back over 60mph. Does that sound like a shifted belt or something maybe? I know it is the front right tire from previous experiments.

One place to look is at the exhaust gasket donut after the rear cat before the resonator. Those can rust out and start leaking. If that's it, you can get a Subaru kit to fix it that includes the donut gasket, bolts, nuts, and springs (as all those will be fairly rusty too, and the bolts will probably snap when you try to remove the nuts). Some pics from my job for this on '00obw:

Good call on going OEM reman alt vs parts store. Yes slow charge battery overnight so it is completely charged when you leave. If you don't run the headlights, heater, a/c, defrost, etc., you can get a few hours runtime if you have a good batt. Yes definitely unhook a battery cable before starting work; the large gauge wires to the alt are always hot. Not sure if it is the same for your vehicle, but here is belt tension for '00obw:

Not sure; here's some related '94 Legacy wiring diagrams... I would double check that fuse 5 with an ohmmeter or just replace it to see if that helps; it seems that is a common fuse for many of these lamps.

If you look at the top right of the poster's information bar, you will see an 'iTrader' indication. You can click there if there is a number to see feedback the user has received from previous transactions conducted on the board, sort of like eBay's feedback.

I looked at FSM for '96 Legacy; diagram is below. For inner tie rod it says 'see steering gear', then it shows a couple basic things with the washer and some special tools, with the rack out of the vehicle.

There's some good articles on http://www.endwrench.com about how the VDC system works; it looks pretty neat. I looked at '06 baja's on http://www.cars101.com; it said the turbo adds "Optional SportShift automatic transmission with VTD awd system"; the turbo with leather package had "Automatic SportShift transmission with VTD all wheel drive". I didn't see VDC.

Hi. Sorry about the diff. Of course just make sure whatever rear diff you get has the same ratio as the one you have now.

For the rear diffs, a 1/2" drive breaker bar or such will work. I use a 1/2" pipe plug socket. It's probably actually metric like 13mm or something but 1/2" seems to work. Transmission drain plug might be 17mm; I have all autos. Common soob fasteners are headed 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 22mm Newer soobs use a T70 torx for the transmission items to hopefully keep the iffy lube type places from draining it when intending to drain the engine oil.

Hi; I forget, did you already replace the knock sensor?