porcupine73

I think there are two ABS fuses; one for the controller and one for the hydraulic unit. I think they might also run some other stuff too... Here's the article from EndWrench I was thinknig of... ABS Relay Sticking - Legacy, Impreza and SVX through 1996 If you encounter a case of the ABS hydraulic motor continuing to run or buzz when the ignition is off, and/or an illuminated ABS warning light and a Code 52 (faulty hydraulic motor and/or motor relay) stored in memory, follow these steps: Note: This condition may be intermittent and difficult to duplicate. 1. If the ABS hydraulic unit continues to run with the key off, confirm the trouble code, if any, and follow the diagnostic chart in the appropriate service manual. 2. Check the wiring harness to make sure it is not the source of the problem. 3. If you have determined that the ABS hydraulic control unit motor is indeed faulty, replace it with the modified relay, part number 26735AA012 (there will be a white line under the word “Japan” on the case). Always check part number supercession for any changes.

Hi. Sounds like a faulty ABS hydraulic unit relay. There were issues with these sticking thus making the pump run constantly. There is info on endwrench.com about it.

Hi and and to the board! What year is this soob? Here's a good article about IACV/ISV cleaning for the styles with the IACV on top of the throttle body: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

Sounds good. I like a dealer geographically close to me that stocks the common parts; this way you can get your order within a couple days without paying for air shipping.

It might be. I'd say have a looksee from underneath. I know on the drivers side it seemed the exhaust was really in the way.

Here's a better pic of the boot in question (left/driver side), circled in red.

Did you order using your VIN#? It appears there are two sets of possible wires for this vehicle based on build date.... SOA430Q119 WIRE SET, IGNITION FOR 2000-2004 LEGACYS (for cars produced upto 2 2004) (non H6) SOA430Q123 WIRE SET, IGNITION FOR 2004-2005 LEGACYS 2.5 (for cars produced after 3 of 2004) (NON TURBO)

hehe isn't that what caused that Mars explorer probe to crash about 10 years ago?

Hi. I think they are talking about the item by the red arrow in this pic. It is at the other end of the outer tie rod end. You can just see the end of the boot in this pic; it's the best pic I have at hand that has this boot in it.

They're nearly the same; probably just a conversion/rounding difference since soob seems to always list the main value in Newton-meters and then conversions to kilogram-meters and foot-pounds(force). For '96 2.2L and 2.5L alldata says 17.3 ft-lb(f) +/- 2.1 ft-lb(f). For '00 2.5L alldata says 17.4 ft-lb(f) +/- 2.2 ft-lb(f).

hehe good point; it's the old 'I asked you for a ride, you told me how to build a spaceship'.

http://www.subarupartsforyou.com is on the east coast and has been treating me well with fast shipping and their Web site doesn't use trademotion which is a big + in my book. There are lots of Subaru dealers who sell parts online though. Some local dealers are also willing to deal down on prices with you, but not all.

^^ ditto, check the connector, mating surface to the block for cleanliness/corrosion, and mounting bolt torque for looseness. If it was overtorqued the new sensor may have cracked. Anyway I replaced mine on '00obw with a resistor instead.

The 2.5L dohc's 'phase I' had the potential internal HG exhaust blowing into coolant. These were used up to and including 1999MY, except maybe Forester got the phase II sohc in 1999MY; not sure The 2.5L sohc 'phase II' have the potential external peeping leak until up ~2003.

Yes, that's true! Subaru for the 1.0 production class world record ftw!!!! Many of the modern FWD transaxles that call for ATF are tranverse mounted, and hence no high torque situations such as with the the Subaru classic hypoid front and rear diffs.

hahahhahha Argh..sigh..I wish I had a turbo engine.

Hi. If it were just truly that ATF were put in instead of gear oil, if it were not run for too long/too much load, that is not a horrid problem. There was just a post where someone put gear oil into the auto trans...that is ba..d.d.d.d. It may have done some extra wear on the gears, etc., since ATF does not have the E.P. (extreme pressure) additives that GL-5 gear oils have because of the hypoid gear components. But if it wasn't run for too long, I would just flush out the ATF and put in fresh gear oil and not worry about it.

Try removing the sway bar link, this gives more room for the bearing housing to move down and get the axle in. If the axle wouldn't go all the way onto the diff stub shaft (so that the spring/roll pin can be installed), you might be off a 1/2 tooth or something; try rotating it ~180 deg and see if that works.

Yikes that is not good for the AT, not good at all. Gear oil has a lot of sulfur and other EP additives which will proceed to attack various parts in the AT. It does however seem like the vehicle should at least move, though maybe not for long. Yes do you get fluid flow from the cooler line?

No do not remove the axle nut to get the rotors off. Of course the caliper bracket does have to be removed. Yes sometimes they come right off and sometimes they're rough. I had some on the front of my '00obw without the 8mm holes and it took a fair amount of sledge hammering, torch heating, etc., to get them off. If you aren't planning to reuse the rotors, you can get busy on them with a sledge.

Drats I wish I'd of seen that a few months earlier! Also if you register at my.subaru.com you can view the owners manual online, for certain model years anyway. A lot of times you can find them on eBay too.

Hello; I don't recall - what brand/type spark plugs, plug wires, coil did you install?

Hi mr1t5abcde and ! First, yes, on '00obw, the fog lamps work ONLY when the low beam headlamps are illuminated. They do not work when the parking lamps are on or when the high beams are on. There is an article on endwrench.com about this fact. I too have an '00obw. I had a recent issue with ABS which turned out to be a poor ground at the power steering reservour bracket. The other stuff you posted about lights sounds odd; I don't know maybe a bad ground or blown fuse somewhere? Either of those can cause odd things in lighting.

I'm sure it is possible to spray foam in there, you mean like that foam sealant for cracks? I doubt it can withstand exhaust temps though and might smoke and/or stink....