porcupine73

One of my local Subaru dealers does that too, double list price on walk-in parts sales. Pretty much any dealer where you just walk-in and ask to buy a part, you're going to pay the highest price that dealer charges anyone. It is up to the dealer to charge whatever they want; Subaru's MSRP price as far as I can tell is roughly 40% above dealer cost.

I have seen a few posts for circa this model year for front o2 heater circuit malfunctions and it was some relay or something that needed to be replaced. It could be the heater in the sensor has opened or shorted or a wiring issue etc. If you decide to replace the front o2 sensor, definitely go OEM on this one. It is a five wire sensor on a six wire connector. In other posts people have ordered the cheapest sensor they could find and the connector and wires were different....so it wouldn't work.

Hi. Ok first, need to know your soob year and model. P1nnn and P2nnn are manufacturer and model specific.

Absolutely! Good call getting it from a dealer though; not sure about PA but in NY cars sold by dealers come with an implied warranty if the vehicle is under 100,000 miles and some mileage.

Possibly starter I suppose; though that would not explain why it starts when it is jumped. Typically when soob starter contacts, etc go, they won't crank at all, or you have to bump the key several times to get it to crank. Cranking a little and then stopping sounds different.

Hm...okay, well that could be true. It seems odd it would act up right after you got it though it is certainly possible. I wouldn't want to say 'oh yah i was having overheating problems like the dickens with that car, that's why I traded it in'.

Wow that sounds like a local dealer, double the list price. Not sure if they ship to Canada, but places such as subarupartsforyou.com sell that part for USD$122 plus shipping. I'm guessing you would have to pay GST or whatever that is tooo.....

Hm...definitely make them make it right. It may be becoming evident why someone traded this vehicle in.....

Definitely battery should be load tested (a simple voltage test is not sufficient), and pull both battery terminals, clean them and the battery posts, reconnect snuggly. Ideally leave the battery disconnected for an hour or so to avoid potential memory corruption issues that some years had in the ECU.

That is kind of weird. I'm not sure if that is typical in an HG failure or not. It definitely would be a symptom of clogged radiator or clog somewhere and/or failed closed thermostat. Also could be an air pocket trapped in the system or low coolant level possibly?

Battery should be load tested; like 100 amps load for 10 seconds then read voltage. Make sure your battery cables and connections are clean in good shape and tight. Check the ground connection to the starter also. When you say it starts right away if jumped, is the jumper cable ground cable at your vehicle connected to the battery terminal, or somewhere else?

If thermostat failed closed, you should still get hot heat out the heater. Radiator could be clogging. Water pump could be failing (not too likely but it could happen, especially if the impeller became damaged somehow or something...) Other clogs/blockages in the system. Is there any mucky murky stuff in the overflow tank or any bubbling?

No oil draining required. Main valve cover removal tips are clean the surrounding area thorougly; any grit on the old gasket or around the valve cover will promptly fall onto the rockers when the valve cover is removed otherwise. Of course new valve cover gaskets, bolt hole washers, and spark plug tube seals (if your engine has them) are good.

Not sure....I haven't seen a soob with that style. I think those are the kind that mount sort of under the brake rotor. The newer style the tone ring is pressed onto the end of the axle and the sensor is behind the bearing.

It should work. The Subaru part # shows 28021AC281 AXLE FRONT LEFT or RIGHT SIDE NEW FROM SUBARU FOR 1996-1999 LEGACY OUTBACKS & SUS Sometimes the axles from turbo models are different, like more splines or something. Same with the rears, except they have different # for left and right. 28021AC111 AXLE REAR RIGHT passengers SIDE NEW FROM SUBARU FOR 1995-1999 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS 4WD 28021AC121 AXLE REAR LEFT drivers SIDE NEW FROM SUBARU FOR 1995-1999 LEGACY OUTBACK & SUS 4WD

Hm...let's do a part # check to see what that shows... Yes they are different part #'s. Interestingly the rear left costs more than the rear right, so I suspect they are not just the same part with different #'s.

Absolutely, good transmission shops are haardd to find. If you start noticing any torque bind issues even slightly, get the ATF changed again. Soobs, and no doubt other makes, likee fresh ATF.

Right on, hubtamer! Did you get the elite kit? Man how did you get that for $200, they're going for twice that now. I know harbor freight makes something similar....not sure if the adapter sizes are good though.

In addition to the possibilities already mentioned such as stuck caliper, pins, etc., sometimes if there is enough dirt/corrosion between the pad ears and caliper bracket, the pads get stuck against the rotor instead of getting knocked back. Usually it would be just one pad worn much more than the other on the same wheel in that case though.

Duty b is for torque converter lock-up. Here's some cut and paste from and endwrench.com article: Lock-Up Torque Converter The torque converter is designed to match a wide range of engines from large to small displacement. It is also designed to improve acceleration from a stop and reduce fuel consumption. The torque converter has an electronically controlled, hydraulic lock-up clutch system that prevents slip loss during medium to high speed operation. This system replaces the previous centrifugal lock-up type clutch. There is a friction surface on the back of the lock-up clutch (piston) which locks against the back of the impeller housing. Clutch engagement shock is minimized in part, because of the torsional clutch dampers and the wave spring/friction washer combination. The lock-up operation is controlled by the TCU which then regulates Duty Solenoid “B” mounted on the lower valve body. This solenoid controls the lock-up valve located in the transmission upper valve body. Finally, the lock-up valve activates the lock-up clutch (piston) located in the torque converter. Operating Modes The TCU regulates the cycle of Duty Solenoid “B.” When the duty solenoid operates at five percent duty, i.e., substantially more “OFF” than “ON,” pilot pressure is directed to the lock-up control valve. In this condition, the control valve is pushed UPWARD by the combined pilot pressure and spring force. This allows regulated hydraulic pressure to enter the The release pressure then pushes the lock-up clutch (piston) rearward and the lock-up clutch is released from the impeller cover. On the other hand, oil drains through the apply circuit to the oil cooler in the radiator. When Duty Solenoid “B” operates at 95 percent duty, i.e., substantially more “ON” than “OFF,” it reduces pilot pressure to the control valve. In this condition, the control valve is pushed DOWNWARD due to the reduced pilot pressure. As a result, regulated hydraulic pressure is directed to the lock-up apply circuit and the release circuit drains. The apply pressure then pushes the lock-up clutch (piston) forward which engages the lock-up clutch with the impeller cover. When engaged, the transmission is coupled directly to the engine.

Sometimes it is just the starter contacts that need swapping out. I just bought a Subaru reman starter from subarupartsforyou.com; here's a comparison pic. The reman starter for some reason was missing a rubber boot over one of the contacts, hence the blue rtv holding the one I ripped off the old starter.

Yes I think I read it is designed to open above a certain exhaust back pressure, i.e. when operating at high power output, to increase performance. What!?! this is a soob!!!!

Not sure about '05, but the issue in earlier imprezas and foresters iirc was that subaru used ball bearings in the rear wheels for some reason, and those just weren't up to the task, whereas the legacy and outback used tapered/roller bearings which held up much better. You can do the bearings with a hydraulic press by removing the wheel bearing housing. Subaru revised the procedure to use the slide hammer technique, I think, because too many wheel bearing housings were being deformed by the pressing process, thus resulting in a cascading series of wheel bearing failures during the rest of the life of the vehicle.

haha yah I was looking at that after I first posted. Anything and everything that had a connection elsewhere was just snipped off. At least they're being efficient! Drive out the axle spring pin? Nah! hack off the axle! I'm sure at the minimum it is more fun that way for the person removing it!

Well, this thread can be a little confusing as there are at least three different users posting issues. Of users who had aftermaket rebuilt axles installled, No doubt there have been posts in the past of users with some weird vibration when stopped in 'drive' after having said aftermarket rebuilt axles installed. It could be coincidence or something else. Not all users of aftermarket rebuilt axles have this issue, but some do. Maybe some get this issue but do not care.