porcupine73

For spring compressors, here's a method that is probably not the best to use: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=33154

Towing another soob probably exceeds the rated towing capacity, especially if you're using a trailer. You probably already know for AWD soobs a dolly (like front wheels off the ground) is not permissible. I think soob wants trailer brakes over 1000lbs. http://www.cars101.com would show the towing ratings.

Maybe you could put in one of those air ride seats like some buses have for the driver. Whenever they hit a bump the seat absorbs it. All the Hertz car rental shuttle buses have these for the driver, they always look fascinating.

Hi 96OutbackGNW and welcome! Anyone know is there any way brake fluid could get sucked in the booster vacuum line?

Sounds good; I'll measure it when I get home. Ace does have roll pins; I think they're just black oxide rolled steel. I don't think they have the serrations like the spring pin, though it would probably work fine. I put some antisieze on my roll pin as it seemed to take a bit to drive it in there.

I have a new one I can check....but not until I get home this evening....It must be about 1/4", since a 7/32" pin punch fits in there, but 1/4" pin punch is too big. Since it's probably metric I"m going to guess 6mm.

That is a nice writeup. I love the use of the duck decoy 'special tool'. Can you get those from snap-on?

Hm..sorry about the svx falling through. There is a guy that posts a lot in the subaru section of buffalogasprices.com that has many svx's and parts..... Well, for the '98 the normal Subaru checks are in order....torque bind check, tires matching, and assuming that has the 2.5L, head gasket check. If its timing belt hasn't been replaced yet, it is overdue in both mileage (105k miles) and time (105 months).

Also, just about anything you find like that compressor on eBay, can be found for less at harbor freight or homier.com Often they are the same item.

I'm not sure about the ebay ones. They're probably ok; it's hard to tell without seeing one. Of course a lot depends on the grade/alloy of steel, etc. I hate doing springs because if one of the compressors snaps or something goes wrong, wellllll that wouldn't be good. The Lisles handled the king springs ok, though when really drawn down I could see a slight bow in the threaded rod. That harbor freight jaw type compressor is pretty bulky and heavy duty looking, but I only used it a couple times because it weights probably 20 lbs and it is a pain to get it on and off the spring.

EJ20 is the 2.0L 4cyl; EJ22 is a 2.2L 4cyl. For a 'new' EJ22 engine, http://www.ccrengines.com would be someplace to check out. EJ22's are fairly readily available used for not too much cash. Here's the side view pic. That place embeds/streams the picture into the page instead of linking it, maybe that's why it wouldn't show up. I like how the axles are just sawed off.

If you're sure it is the rear diff, probably the easiest thing to do is swap in a used one. Of course the gear ratio must match your front diff, but maybe circa '92 they were all the same anyway. For reference, this thread is continuation of the one started here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80588

The spring compressors in that link look like they might work; I haven't seen them with those jaws before. Do not skimp on the spring compressor; if that thing breaks during the job it can seriously injure or worse. Sears has the Lisle spring compressor which is similar to that pic; it is like $50 but seems well made and easy to use. I went from stock to GR-2's with king springs on '00obw. Yes the ride got a lot stiffer, but doesn't really seem jaring, even in cold weather. The old struts and springs made the car handle like a wet fish compared to the nice firm ride now; it feels a lot more predictable and safer to me. If you want a softer ride, you might want to try monroe struts or something like that. Left, the Lisle compressor; right a Harbor Freight compressor (awkward to use)

Yes, scratching the cam isn't fun. That is some hard steel in there. I worked away at my scratches with emery cloth and then fine scotchbrite but couldn't get the scratches completely out. I worked at 'em until they at least didn't feel like they would eat up the new cam seals.

Right on man! One step at a time. Then you can work on that ashtray issue...j/k haha

Hi Cincy Machine. If the vibration is due to the afermarket axles, the fix is Subaru OEM axles, Subaru OEM reman axles, MWE axles. Someone just had this issue on subaruoutback.org and then put in new OEM axles, problem solved. His description was the same as yours on centralohio. Have also seen the same symptoms in many other posts after aftermarket axles are in.

Right, under normal operation there should not be a fuse in the FWD holder. If you go into a dry parking lot and make some tight circles, does it feel like the brakes are on or is there any binding or popping? If you have a snowy parking lot maybe you can try hammering it some and see if the rear wheels are getting power.

Hi. A few thoughts. First, a dum question...you're sure this Legacy is AWD right? Not all of them were of that era. It has a rear diff and rear axles? I'm assuming this is an auto trans. The FWD (front wheel drive) fuse under the hood should not be installed. Also yes, dedicated snow tires definitely work better in snow. All seasons are ok but for serious snow not so much. Depending on how new the newer soob you were following is, it may have had a limited slip rear diff and/or traction control and/or VDC which can make it able to traverse even rougher conditions than earlier soobs. edit: also, how many miles does the vehicle have on? Sometimes higher mileage autos the transfer clutch plates can be worn out, reducing the amount of power it can transfer to the rear.

It might just be a motivated seller or maybe cosmetically it isn't in the best of shape or something like that. I don't know why at that mileage it would have had the timing belt done already. Salvage title is 'brand' or 'mark' that may be on the title if the vehicle was 'totalled' in an accident. How exactly it shows up varies from state to state. Vehicles can be totalled and 'repaired' without having a salvage title brand; some insurance companies got in trouble for this for selling cars totalled in accidents to rebuilders without doing the appropriate steps. A vehicle sold in a desert could still have been brought in from a flood area. There are things you can check, like stains or water marks on the upholstery etc., and some other stuff.

How about the throttle body and iacv, have those been cleaned?

Yes it seems poopboys is becoming more and more like that too. It's already been said but right on Subaru OEM parts and Subaru OEM reman parts in general are known good quality and durable, which I think makes them a good value. On certain items the aftermarket part costs nearly as much as the OEM part anyway. Become a regular client of a Subaru dealer who sells parts online; there are dozens. Or some local dealers will work out more agreeable pricing.

Sorry; I've never worked on a 1.8 I can't think of any reasons why drilling and tapping if no existing spot is available wouldn't work just fine.

Not sure how code clearing works on other setups; I'm assuming you have something different than the ODBII setup here in the states. The sensor is self replaceable, at least on US spec vehicles. I would imagine yours in the same location. If you look down under where the throttle cables are pretty much you will spot the knock sensor. If you can see it down there then you could figure whether it's something you want to try yourself or not. You need a 12mm socket, like a 12 inch extension, and ratchet, and possibly a flex joint. Yours is probably the 'double pole' style, so it looks a little different than the pic below (yours probably doesn't have the pigtail like this one) but the same idea.

Hm yes could be clearance differences of something between vehicles then. I have '00obw too and the axle slid out with two light taps of a ball peen hammer. Putting grease or antisieze or something on the splines before installing the new one might help if it ever needs to come out again, esp if the issue is corossion. Even a little bit of corossion in there can make it bear to get it out. I think the service procedure does say to grease the splines but I don't recall for sure.

That doesn't sound too bad for all that work at a dealer. If you get it done you mightb want to get a water pump, front crank and cam seals, geared/toothed idler near the water pump, check other idlers and tensioner. To do these items when the engine is out is not much extra labor. If this is an auto trans, do you notice much delay when cold engaging from park to drive?