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Everything posted by porcupine73
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Well the best reasonable bet is, get the new tires put on asap (and hope/check they all measure within 1/4" circumference). If you are experiencing torque bind as you say on a manual trans, a gear oil change is of no avail....the 'center diff' is a sealed unit with its own silicone oil and changing the gear oil will make zero difference.
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Some people make those up with those vinyl graphics printing/stenciling machines....I'm trying to remember who I saw that had a bunch of those for Subaru. Anyway, yes a Subaru dealer can get you the badges but as you mentioned they are not cheap. Here's one list with part #'s: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partlistbymod.php?model=Forester&subcat=Body%2C+Emblems You might be able to get the desired badges from salvage yards or such as http://www.car-part.com or maybe sometimes on eBay, etc.
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Towing another soob probably exceeds the rated towing capacity, especially if you're using a trailer. You probably already know for AWD soobs a dolly (like front wheels off the ground) is not permissible. I think soob wants trailer brakes over 1000lbs. http://www.cars101.com would show the towing ratings.
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Hm..sorry about the svx falling through. There is a guy that posts a lot in the subaru section of buffalogasprices.com that has many svx's and parts..... Well, for the '98 the normal Subaru checks are in order....torque bind check, tires matching, and assuming that has the 2.5L, head gasket check. If its timing belt hasn't been replaced yet, it is overdue in both mileage (105k miles) and time (105 months).
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I'm not sure about the ebay ones. They're probably ok; it's hard to tell without seeing one. Of course a lot depends on the grade/alloy of steel, etc. I hate doing springs because if one of the compressors snaps or something goes wrong, wellllll that wouldn't be good. The Lisles handled the king springs ok, though when really drawn down I could see a slight bow in the threaded rod. That harbor freight jaw type compressor is pretty bulky and heavy duty looking, but I only used it a couple times because it weights probably 20 lbs and it is a pain to get it on and off the spring.
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EJ20 is the 2.0L 4cyl; EJ22 is a 2.2L 4cyl. For a 'new' EJ22 engine, http://www.ccrengines.com would be someplace to check out. EJ22's are fairly readily available used for not too much cash. Here's the side view pic. That place embeds/streams the picture into the page instead of linking it, maybe that's why it wouldn't show up. I like how the axles are just sawed off.
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If you're sure it is the rear diff, probably the easiest thing to do is swap in a used one. Of course the gear ratio must match your front diff, but maybe circa '92 they were all the same anyway. For reference, this thread is continuation of the one started here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80588
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The spring compressors in that link look like they might work; I haven't seen them with those jaws before. Do not skimp on the spring compressor; if that thing breaks during the job it can seriously injure or worse. Sears has the Lisle spring compressor which is similar to that pic; it is like $50 but seems well made and easy to use. I went from stock to GR-2's with king springs on '00obw. Yes the ride got a lot stiffer, but doesn't really seem jaring, even in cold weather. The old struts and springs made the car handle like a wet fish compared to the nice firm ride now; it feels a lot more predictable and safer to me. If you want a softer ride, you might want to try monroe struts or something like that. Left, the Lisle compressor; right a Harbor Freight compressor (awkward to use)
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Hi Cincy Machine. If the vibration is due to the afermarket axles, the fix is Subaru OEM axles, Subaru OEM reman axles, MWE axles. Someone just had this issue on subaruoutback.org and then put in new OEM axles, problem solved. His description was the same as yours on centralohio. Have also seen the same symptoms in many other posts after aftermarket axles are in.
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Right, under normal operation there should not be a fuse in the FWD holder. If you go into a dry parking lot and make some tight circles, does it feel like the brakes are on or is there any binding or popping? If you have a snowy parking lot maybe you can try hammering it some and see if the rear wheels are getting power.
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Hi. A few thoughts. First, a dum question...you're sure this Legacy is AWD right? Not all of them were of that era. It has a rear diff and rear axles? I'm assuming this is an auto trans. The FWD (front wheel drive) fuse under the hood should not be installed. Also yes, dedicated snow tires definitely work better in snow. All seasons are ok but for serious snow not so much. Depending on how new the newer soob you were following is, it may have had a limited slip rear diff and/or traction control and/or VDC which can make it able to traverse even rougher conditions than earlier soobs. edit: also, how many miles does the vehicle have on? Sometimes higher mileage autos the transfer clutch plates can be worn out, reducing the amount of power it can transfer to the rear.
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It might just be a motivated seller or maybe cosmetically it isn't in the best of shape or something like that. I don't know why at that mileage it would have had the timing belt done already. Salvage title is 'brand' or 'mark' that may be on the title if the vehicle was 'totalled' in an accident. How exactly it shows up varies from state to state. Vehicles can be totalled and 'repaired' without having a salvage title brand; some insurance companies got in trouble for this for selling cars totalled in accidents to rebuilders without doing the appropriate steps. A vehicle sold in a desert could still have been brought in from a flood area. There are things you can check, like stains or water marks on the upholstery etc., and some other stuff.