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Everything posted by porcupine73
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Yes it seems poopboys is becoming more and more like that too. It's already been said but right on Subaru OEM parts and Subaru OEM reman parts in general are known good quality and durable, which I think makes them a good value. On certain items the aftermarket part costs nearly as much as the OEM part anyway. Become a regular client of a Subaru dealer who sells parts online; there are dozens. Or some local dealers will work out more agreeable pricing.
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Not sure how code clearing works on other setups; I'm assuming you have something different than the ODBII setup here in the states. The sensor is self replaceable, at least on US spec vehicles. I would imagine yours in the same location. If you look down under where the throttle cables are pretty much you will spot the knock sensor. If you can see it down there then you could figure whether it's something you want to try yourself or not. You need a 12mm socket, like a 12 inch extension, and ratchet, and possibly a flex joint. Yours is probably the 'double pole' style, so it looks a little different than the pic below (yours probably doesn't have the pigtail like this one) but the same idea.
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Hm yes could be clearance differences of something between vehicles then. I have '00obw too and the axle slid out with two light taps of a ball peen hammer. Putting grease or antisieze or something on the splines before installing the new one might help if it ever needs to come out again, esp if the issue is corossion. Even a little bit of corossion in there can make it bear to get it out. I think the service procedure does say to grease the splines but I don't recall for sure.
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That doesn't sound too bad for all that work at a dealer. If you get it done you mightb want to get a water pump, front crank and cam seals, geared/toothed idler near the water pump, check other idlers and tensioner. To do these items when the engine is out is not much extra labor. If this is an auto trans, do you notice much delay when cold engaging from park to drive?
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Yes Ny has different tests for different areas. All the requirements are up on their Web site. I think all areas are subject to the 'enhanced test' which includes ODBII emissions passing (not necessarily including a sniff test). My area (Buffalo, NY, as are most areas outside the main NYC area) get that test. NYC and nearby outliers and such areas as Westchester I think get the high enhanced emissions test which includes at least tail pipe sniff testing, and possibly even dyno testing.
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Not sure about your area; here in NY, there is a space on the back of the Title, which is filled out when selling/transferring ownership to another person. It has a spot where the odometer reading must be filled in, and it has a box for 'exceeds mechanical limits' (like a 5 digit odometer which has rolled over), and something like 'not actual odometer reading' or something like that for cases like you described. Note that then the title is branded with some statement about 'not actual mileage' or something.
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Right, if the axle nut has been removed, and the axle will not come out of the hub with a few taps, then it probably has some corrosion in there. Penetrating oil good. The splined part is pretty long so you may need a lot of penetrating oil and some time to let it get down in there. If the axle nut has not been removed, the shaft will not come out of the hub.
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Are you trying to remove the crank pulley, or the crank sprocket? The crank sprocket drives the timing belt; the crank pulley is the harmonic dampener which also drives the accessory drive belts. Either way, when either of those are hard to get off it is often corrosion between the crank snout and the pulley/sprocket. I apply good penetrating oil and try to let it get soaked back and down in there real good, this helps a lot. For the crank pulley, I had good results freeing it be tapping it with a deadblow hammer different ways/directions and it came off. For the crank sprocket, I kept gently prying behind it evenly on each side, using a strap wrench to nudge it clockwise, counterclockwise, etc, then when it started coming off and stopped, I applied more penetrating oil and tapped it all the way back on the snout, then repeated, getting a little further each time. If you cracked one of tangs off the crank sprocket, you will probably want to replace it, since that's what the crank position sensor on the oil pump 'reads'.