porcupine73

New one goes back in with a seal driver if you're driving flush, or a 1" schedule 40 pvc female/female joint adapter (any hardware store) works great for me. These can be tough to get in straight, at least in my experience, this is probably my least favorite job so far in automotive work. Make note not to drive too much further than the original is installed.

congrats! Ahhh yes, the trusty soobs, vehicles which were (are?) still servicable and have space to work. Well for most jobs anyway...

Where you can remove the cam cap, I just use a regular seal puller like from napa and it pulls right out. On the RH side where you have to pull the cam seal in place over the cam, the only method I have had work is to drill two small holes in the seal, screw in two small screws, and use pliers to pull the seal out. Nothing else seems to budge it. This time on 2.2L I tried some pullers and stuff and gouged the heck out of the cam which I could not smooth out even with 400 grit sandpaper and scotchbrite; hopefully it doesn't eat up the new seal.

Sure he would then have a working starter, but the rest of us would have had nothing to do in the meantime. hehe..

Sometimes they get so carboned up the valves can't close completely.

Sometimes but not always ngk spark plugs with oem plug wires takes care of this issue. Soobs can be picky about these items, esp around that era.

Ok thanks. I'm 99% sure now they are HLA's because I later found some stuff on EndWrench.com about it. I just made sure there was no air in the HLA's and then put the new valve cover gaskets and bolt hole washers in. I was a little surprised at their cleanliness as well. Cleaner than my '00obw. But soobs are pretty easy on the oil from what i hear. I don't know the previous history of this vehicle; I have had it about 27k miles, run on amsoil hdd 5w-30 with a shot of schaeffer's #132 moly ep with an amsoil flush before changeover. It is on its second oil change since I've had it.

These conversions seem to be popular in other countries, especially such as India. I was trying to find info on this a few years back and there didn't seem to be a lot of choices in the U.S. I would definitely be interested as well if anyone has info. CNG works if you are filling at a station which already has it pressurized; otherwise you need a compressor to take your home supply of ~4inwc up to a few thousand psig in the cylinders. Sometimes on eBay you will see CNG vehicles already for sale, especially certain Ford models.

There is a post somewhere with other contacts that will work, I think they were Nissan of some sort....or maybe that's Nissan key blanks I can't remember. An autoparts store might have them. I think someone also got similar ones at a parts store and shaved them down a little. $17....Well the price on copper is going up and up!

Hi. Can anyone tell what kind of lash adjusters are in this pic? This is a 2.2L in a '96 Legacy brighton AT 117k miles. Are there any checks or adjustments to be done while I'm doing the timing belt and replacing the valve cover gaskets and such? I'm assuming these are hydraulic lash adjusters, but I have heard some people say that the '96 2.2L does not use HLA's. Or is that the bucket type that you need the shims and special tools? Thanks!

Yes there is. I got these from a Subaru dealer. Not sure if it's a original Subaru part as they were just in a plain sealed little plastic baggy with no part # or name on them. You could order a Subaru reman from a Subaru dealer who sells parts online. I too have had baaadd luck on other vehicles with the parts store remans.

haha good point! Better wear splash goggles and gloves. Don't want any surprises....

Oh yah, you want to be careful not to damage the wheel bearing, or the wheel bearing inside seal during the axle extraction, unless you have another onhand. Here's a pic of the seal ('00obw):

I extracted the axle, after the axle nut was removed, by removing the strut bolts so I could drop the bearing housing down, and pound lightly on the end of the axle do free it from the hub. I don't know if this will work on the rear though....

Well, I don't know what it looks like on the rear, but here's what it looked like on the front of my '00obw. The axle rests inside the hub, and is held in by the axle nut....here's the pic

Well...I haven't extracted a hub before. I think you need to get the axle out, then often the Subaru procedure has some contraption where you use a slide hammer to yoink the hub out. Also it seems I have seen posts where people have hammered out the broken studs at this point without removing the hub and somehow put in the new studs.... I fixed my pics in my previous thread.

Use a screwdriver or small pry bar or whatever to 'unstake' the axle nut. A good strong impact wrench will just override the lock anyway. Yes a good strong impact wrench makes this a lot easier. The axle nut should be replaced after removal but if you don't have another one try to at least make it so you can 'restake' the old axle nut. Socket size is typically 32mm, though there is some other size seens ometimes too. Also if you can heat the axle nut with a torch or something that can help too. When I used heat and then impact the thing came off like butter.

Ok, here's roughly what you're looking at before caliper and rotor are removed (this is '00 outback) note: no access to studs Here is after the caliper and rotor are removed (note studs are accessible, though the Subaru procedure has you remove the axle nut, extract the axle, remove the hub, and press out the old stud(s) and press in the new stud(s).

Right the studs go through the hub, you have to get the rotor off to get at them. I would only use a 'raw' sledge against a rotor you aren't planning to reuse because the sledge will make a lot of dings/dents in the rotor. You could shield the rotor with a piece of 2x4 or something and sledge on that if you want to reuse the rotor. How many studs do you need to replace? I will see what pics I have to assist...

Hello. After the caliper and caliper bracket are out of the way, and the rotor won't come off, first make sure you have backed off the parking brake shoes. Sometimes these will stick. Next if the rotor has any bolt holes just inside the diameter of the hub studs. If so, the oem rotors will take an 8mm (don't know thread pitch; probably 1.0 or 1.5) bolt to drive it off the rotor. If no holes or you don't have the bolts, a 4-10 lb sledge is your best friend. I had to pound mine off my '00obw it was a real pain. Then once you get the rotors off, if you need to remove the hub to replace the studs (i've seen arguments both ways), then yes (if you need to remove the hub), you will have to remove the axle nut. Subaru says hot to hammer on the hub as it can deform it, but people often seem to use a hammer to remove and install the studs.

Good note. It would be more 'plug and pray?' The EJ22's should be somewhat readily haveable from salvage yards and such. If you want top notch http://www.ccrengines.com can help you out.

Yes you need to snake out the a/c drain. If you look under the vehicle, at the bottom of the firewall, on the RH (passenger) side, you should see a hose coming out of there. It's probably plugged up so the condensate can't drain through it and thus it flows out inside the vehicle. Snake that drain out and it should be good to go.

Sounds like a nice ride. I can't find it off hand but I think the timing chain cover is sealed with Threebond 1280B, which is a grey putty color. Anyway, none of the main Threebond sealants are red; they are white, grey, black, walnut, etc. http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1200list.html

Hi danspanno. Did you happen to have any autoparts store rebuilt axles/half shafts/cv installed at any point? Hm...adwolf last activity was late '06.

Hi ScottD and to the board! If the rear suspension is the regular mcpherson type, then eccentric camber bolts such as the ones below (typically by putting one in the top mounting hole, or if that doesn't get enough adjustment, one in the top and one in the bottom for the two bolts holding the strut to the bearing housing.) However if the Baja has the independent link or whatever they call it rear suspension, (such as this pic of my '00 outback), the camber bolts will not work because the strut does not mount to the bearing housing with two bolts like the regular mcpherson style. Eccentric camber bolt is in the top hole (this is front of '00 obw):