porcupine73

You could get the ABS light to flash out the code, then you would know what it thinks the issue is. If it is with that wheel speed sensor the code will indicate that.

I haven't done this job, yet. From other posts I've seen it is not overly difficult. One of the bolts on the start can be a little tricky. The plunger and some other starter parts should be checked as well. The contacts are like $5-$10; reman starter could be a few hundred. The only reman starter I would consider is a Subaru OEM reman from Subaru. I have had baaaddd results, like repeated repeated failures in the past with rebuilt stuff from the autoparts stores. Ok so maybe they gave you a 'lifetime' warranty but it's still your labor to R&R the thing each time, and with a starter you can be stranded. Often with remans only the part that went bad is replaced and the rest of the thing isn't touched.

The contacts tend to pit with use. They don't really corrode, but the pitting removes material from the contacts until eventually they don't make contact anymore. Right, the tapping is just an emergency solution; eventually they would pit enough that it won't work at all. Because we're talking about like I don't know what, 100 amps or more going through those contacts, it's rough on the make and break.

Well you have to pull the starter out to do it, which isn't too hard. There is a good thread on here somewhere with pictures of the starter apart. If it's the contacts, sometimes tapping the starter with a hammer (start with the smallest hammer) will make it work.

The info OB99W asked for would be helpful. If it's no crank or delay between putting key and start and cranking, sometimes it is the starter contacts pitting with age. Also sometimes it is the neutral/park switch, so you could try starting it in neutral when it's acting up to see what happens.

Also, http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html can be helpful for determing tire sizes that would just be narrower without being too much smaller in diameter (don't want to lose ground clearance for winter!)

You should be able to just replace the bleed screw if the rad threads aren't damaged. You'll have to get the nipple out of the rad if it is stuck in there. A small ez out used carefully will probably remove it.

Right, it might just not be tight enough. With engine cold I would remove it with a large phillips screwdriver and inspect it. Make sure the little rubber gasket is in good shape, there isn't any debris under it or anything, etc.

ARP makes a head bolt or stud kit I believe for Subaru engines; I've seen it on summitracing.com The torque procedure was revised for some engines; I've seen articles on endwrench.com about it.

It's just coincidence. You probably want to read the airbag codes and see what problem it is experiencing. I believe this article has the instructions for reading the code: Subaru Supplemental Restraint System Service

The service manual does not say the head bolts have to be replaced. I believe they can be reused because it is aluminum head and aluminum block so the bolts do not stretch to yield like they would on cast iron.

Right, typically the entire transaxle (AT and front diff) would be replaced. It is possible to service/rebuild the front diff though if that is the desired route. Here's where someone did that: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8718

Oh ok I didn't see the '95 or '96 restriction. I guess that means Subaru considers the 'useful life of the vehicle' to be maybe about 13 years? That's pretty reasonable I guess; I think many manuf's aim for a 10 year lifespan.

Nice finds! In another recent thread, someone contacted Subaru about a seatbelt issue and got it all fixed for free, as Subaru said something like 'Subaru seatbelts are warranted for the useful life of the vehicle'.

Alright that's good news! Congrats. Well hey that's still a pretty good batting average! When I pulled my first oil pump I didn't notice one of the bolts and bent the pump case whilst prying like crazy... :-\

Uh..d00d your age says 22! haha. Yes the 4 ft pipe is not a tool in itself necessarily, but it does help hand tools to work better! Like those old BASF commercials....

Congratulations! Thanks for posting back with results.

haha, well yes I do take pictures of every job I do. I always intend to do a writeup for it but I never get around to it. But then when someone asks a question I remember that I have pics so I figure might as well post 'em at least.

That's just one of the issues I have with the haynes and such manuals; for a lot of things they use some generic description without pictures of how to perform a task if it is close enough. I just did this axle job on '00 obw. It took me a while to think of putting the punch in a socket like that. Tried to punch it out from the bottom, nope that wasn't going to work. Not enough clearance down in there to really swing a hammer, as least not without hitting other things.... Here's where the bearing housing dropped out of the strut to free the axle; others do it different ways:

Hi. KYB GR-2 is one option; Bilstein's are nice but they only make them for a few Subaru's.

Hi. IIRC you drive the pin out from the non-beveled side and drive it in from the beveled side. I put some penetrating oil on the pin before trying to drive it out. It took a bit of force to get it to come out. I used this pin punch, but I forget what size it was (edit: I think it is 7/32", not sure): What I hear is you definitely do not want to use too small of a punch as it can mushroom the roll pin head and jam it firmly in place so it won't come out, and possibly jam the pin punch in the hole as well. From this pin punch set (just saw one of these for not too much on eBay; auction might still be on): This is how I drove it out since like you said access is limited. I pounded on the top of the end of the socket extensions, inside of which was the pin punch: New oem roll pin/spring pin:

Yes good pic of the failed bearing. Typically the toothed/geared one seems to be the most common to fail. No damage would have been done to the engine since that one is non interference.

Yes that would be a nice find. I see Subex location says international. So maybe s/he does not have to deal with the ODBII issue? Is that pretty much a U.S. emissions thing, or do other region spec vehicles use ODBII as well?

Does your '96 Outback presently have a 2.2L (I think the MT's had the 2.2L)...

A main issue may be the '96 is ODBII and the '90 is not.