-
Posts
5252 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by porcupine73
-
I haven't done this job, yet. From other posts I've seen it is not overly difficult. One of the bolts on the start can be a little tricky. The plunger and some other starter parts should be checked as well. The contacts are like $5-$10; reman starter could be a few hundred. The only reman starter I would consider is a Subaru OEM reman from Subaru. I have had baaaddd results, like repeated repeated failures in the past with rebuilt stuff from the autoparts stores. Ok so maybe they gave you a 'lifetime' warranty but it's still your labor to R&R the thing each time, and with a starter you can be stranded. Often with remans only the part that went bad is replaced and the rest of the thing isn't touched.
-
The contacts tend to pit with use. They don't really corrode, but the pitting removes material from the contacts until eventually they don't make contact anymore. Right, the tapping is just an emergency solution; eventually they would pit enough that it won't work at all. Because we're talking about like I don't know what, 100 amps or more going through those contacts, it's rough on the make and break.
-
That's just one of the issues I have with the haynes and such manuals; for a lot of things they use some generic description without pictures of how to perform a task if it is close enough. I just did this axle job on '00 obw. It took me a while to think of putting the punch in a socket like that. Tried to punch it out from the bottom, nope that wasn't going to work. Not enough clearance down in there to really swing a hammer, as least not without hitting other things.... Here's where the bearing housing dropped out of the strut to free the axle; others do it different ways:
-
Hi. IIRC you drive the pin out from the non-beveled side and drive it in from the beveled side. I put some penetrating oil on the pin before trying to drive it out. It took a bit of force to get it to come out. I used this pin punch, but I forget what size it was (edit: I think it is 7/32", not sure): What I hear is you definitely do not want to use too small of a punch as it can mushroom the roll pin head and jam it firmly in place so it won't come out, and possibly jam the pin punch in the hole as well. From this pin punch set (just saw one of these for not too much on eBay; auction might still be on): This is how I drove it out since like you said access is limited. I pounded on the top of the end of the socket extensions, inside of which was the pin punch: New oem roll pin/spring pin: