porcupine73

Looks good. I think what happens is, ODBII protocol allows a value to be requested, such as fuel pressure. If the ECU does not support that value, it has the option of somehow returning a zero or null value or something; or not responding or returning anything at all, which seems to be what happens in the case you mentioned, since the SG just kind of hangs. I had that issue on my SGI with my '96, but fortunately for some strange reason I read some parts of the manual before using it and noted the different setting for that era Subaru. I did not in my '00obw it works with the setting on 'all'; it doesn't have to just be 'supported'.

You can just ground one pin on the ABS diagnostic harness and it will start flashing out the code on the ABS light. It gives a good idea of where to look.

Didn't see anything like that for 2003 or 2006. Cars101.com shows: For 2005 there was a "Satin White Pearl with brilliant Silver metallic accent" available with the turbo. For 2004 there was a "White Frost pearl with Silverstone lower accent" available with the turbo.

Not sure if these are what you're looking for, but they are for a 1996 Legacy 2.2L: The images are kind of big so you might have to save them and open them in an image editor/viewer to zoom in.

Yes additional things keep becoming required. Not sure about VDC's requirement. Is ABS currently a requirement? I think in the upcoming EndWrench Subaru noted that TPMS is required on all U.S. vehicles beginning in '08.

Or autozone or similar place may have them available for free loan. Esentially in those cases you buy the tool and if you return it within the prescribed time they will refund your money.

From cars101.com, discussing the 2007 Outback lineup: There are a lot of variables in an insurance rate, so even if VDC got some discount, it might be more expensive to insure because the Soobs with VDC are generally more expensive.

Yes as mentioned make sure the axle nut is 'unstaked', else it won't budge. Penetrating oil and heat can make it easier. I've used a 3/4" breaker bar from Sears and a 32mm 6pt Armstrong socket from mcmaster.com A small compressor can operate an air impact wrench in short bursts.

Sure. I like that article. I found it accidentally when looking for something else one time. Unfortunately they mis-spelled 'valve' as 'vlave' in the title so it doesn't come up in a search for 'valve'.

Whoops! Fortunately that is a non-interference engine so no damage was done. If it's a manual trans, put it in 5th and set the parking brake that should be sufficient. Prybar inserted into the bellhousing works well and is fairly easy to do. On my 2.2L, if you look kind of along the plane of the starter near the top of the engine, you will see a black plastic/rubber plug. If you pull that out then you can shove something in there like a big screwdriver, socket extension, prybar etc to hold the crank still. I have a picture of it at home if needed. Be careful not to damage the TPS or anything that may be nearby. Chain wrench holds the crank pulley fairly well. Harbor Freight is the only place I could find locally that had a chain wrench with a chain big enough to fit around the crank pulley. Wrapped the pulley with some old accessory drive belt to protect it from the biting of the chain. I found the prybar method above to be easier to do though:

2.5 Liter Twin Cam Engine Vlave Adjustment

Glad you got it straightened! The arrow denotes piston position for checking valve clearances, though on models with HLA's this isn't used as oft. Fortunately you had a non-interference 2.2L; anything else would have bent valves.

Sheesh if Scion's are popular in the U.S., Subaru should definitely be able to sell that thing!

Top speed was 123.224mph. Check out the article: http://www.driveperformancesubaru.com/version4_1/atticpart2.asp

Ah ok thanks. Well it must be since it did turn out to be the timing belt! Yes check the oil pump rear case cover screws for backing out if it hasn't been checked previously, as this did happen on earlier 2.2L's. If your front cam and crank seals are still the older black style (that tended to leak) might as well update them with the newer brownish style.

Or if you want to pull out all the stops, http://www.ccrengines.com you could even stay with a 2.5L then reliably if desired.

Yes, that kit sounds like it has all the gaskets and seals you need to R&R the valve covers. Those are the seals that go over the valve cover bolts to prevent oil from leaking out through the bolt holes. They look similar to the washers in my first pic above.

I haven't used it, but it looks pretty neat. I've seen a somewhat similar device but it only works on CAN bus vehicles.

No it is not necessary to drain the engine oil before removing the valve cover gaskets. You will get a little bit of oil coming out but not much. Draining the engine oil will make no difference. Obviously do not start or crank the engine with the valve covers off or then you will get oil spilling out. I forgot to mention, optionally wash/spray the areas around the valve covers, and definitely blow out with compressed air, before removing the valve covers. Otherwise all kinds of little pieces of grit and stuff will get in there when you take the valve covers off. If you're changing the oil, I would do it after the job is completed. Subaru dealer who sells parts online; there are many - example: http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=3497

Would you get code 13 if the timing belt broke?

Hi. Focus on the code 13 first. The vehicle will start and run without the o2 sensor, but not without the cam angle sensor. Check the cam angle sensor. It is located at the back of the LH (driver side) cam cover. Make sure it is firmly mounted and the connector is on and looks good. If those look good maybe take the sensor out, tap it some, etc., put it back in and see if it works. There are some tests you can do for the sensor with an analog voltmeter. I can post more details if desired. Here is where the cam angle sensor is. This pic has the timing covers off and some other parts removed, but should give you a general idea of where to look. It's near the engine oil filler cap.

For tools, an assortment of 10mm stuff can be helfpul; like socket, ratcheting wrench with flex head, flex head socket, etc. When you reassemble, do not overtighten the valve cover bolts - they will strip. Tighten each one a little bit until they are the desired torque. Don't tighten the first one down all the way, then the next, etc. Valve cover bolt hole washers for a '96 2.2L: Valve cover gaskets for a '96 2.2L: Spark plug hole seals for a '00 2.5L (sohc). Note: On my '96 2.2L, the spark plug holes/tubes do NOT penetrate the valve cover so it does not use these seals.

What's those cars with 3 wheels called? Has that single wheel in the front for steering...those are kind of freaky. I saw some of those on the main highways in England which seemed insane!

Well there are foreign auto importers if the desire is strong enough

Yes, for Subaru and many other manufacturers, alldatadiy has the OEM factory service manuals, with all updates and service bulletins.