porcupine73

Those ignition timing values you mentioned sounds just like what I see in my '96 Legacy 2.2L (using scangauge). Are you having other issues leading you to be suspicious of the MAF, or are you just wondering since you're reading a value lower than what Haynes says the spec is?

Someone just posted a pretty detailed writeup at http://www.centralohiosubarus.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3991&hl=

Since you already ordered the new knock sensor, I would just go ahead and install it. The mating surface between the sensor and block needs to be clean and the bolt specifies a particular torque. If the knock sensor became unplugged, the ECU was retarding timing to the maximum as a failsafe. Reduced power and fuel economy would be noticed.

So what code(s) did you read?

That's good info. I ordered OEM the black (double row) and orange (single row) idlers. and rec'd two double row ones, which do look more robust.

How long did it take to compress the pin? The OEM tensioner costs less than the aftermarket.

Thermostat is in the thermostat housing, circled in red. When replacing, a new thermostat gasket is required as well: OEM thermostat is suggested; here's a comparison of OEM to aftermarket:

Unless it were a flood vehicle

Can you maybe pull an assembly from one in a salvage yard?

There is an article on endwrench.com about how to do it but I can't find it off hand.

Ok great, that answers the question. Thanks!

Hi. This is a '96 Legacy 2.2L. Is there an o-ring somewhere at this end of the LH cam?

That may be true; fortunately your vehicle is not in that category and does have adjustable camber.

Torque bind check of course. Maybe also test the a/c, some of these had issues with the a/c compressor speed sensor or something.

I think the blower motor is sort of under the dash/behind the glove box area on the passenger/right side. Does it not work on any setting? Sometimes the blower resistor goes bad and then it will work on the highest setting only. If you can find it maybe try tapping it and see if it comes on. Maybe see if it is getting power to it. There is only one blower.

Here's what they look like. I bought these for my scorpion/king spring but didn't need them: There is a really good article on endwrench somewhere about how to do Subaru alignment. It shows all the adjustments and how much turning the various fasteners will change the settings.

Main recommendations I see typically given: 1. trailer brakes 2. auxiliary transmission fluid cooler (if auto trans) (there is an OEM Subaru kit, or you can get them from places such as SummitRacing.com. They are dead easy to put on Subaru's since the ATF lines are just hose on hose barb connections; no fancy proprietary connectors). 3. make sure vehicle is in good shape, all maintenance done, brakes in good shape, etc. 4. don't tailgate 5. personally if I were doing this I would run a heavier gear lube in the diffs such as 75w110 or 75w140

Maybe the eccentric/camber upper strut bolt to bearing housing bolt is already at the limits of its adjustment. If so you could try a ingalls or intrax or other camber bolt; those allow a little more adjustment.

Ok great! Maybe the battery was not disconnected long enough. There was an article on endwrench for certain Soobs that could develop a poor idle if the battery was not left disconnected long enough.

Do the torque bind test, driving in circles slowly in a parking lot and seeing if it feels like the brakes are on or there is any popping or anything. If not you're probably good, at least torque bind hasn't set in yet.

It does seem like a vacuum leak. Do you hear any sucking noises under the hood at idle? Did you use a new IACV gasket as well? Do not spray it with wd-40, that just makes an oily surface that dirt can stick to and gum the thing up again.

Sorry to hear about that. It is unfortuate that Subaru has this issue on certain MY's. It is definitely not isolated to Subaru though; many other automakers have this issue much worse.

Hi! Did you make sure to not trap any air in the system? Based on some of the details you mentioned, (upper rad hose hot, but radiator cold, heater hose warm, but no heat) it sounds like coolant is not circulating. Even if the rad were clogged and/or thermostat failed closed, you should still get heat. Was this with the timing belt on? It doesn't seem like you should be able to rotate the impeller with the timing belt on unless the belt is loose. Maybe with engine cold, pull the heater core hot hose (coming off the coolant supply pipe), then crank it for a few seconds and see if you get a good stream of coolant coming out.

Nice keys! My '96 is a brighton, it does not have power locks, power windows, ABS, and it has rear drums. My '94 has all of those.