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Everything posted by porcupine73
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Since you already ordered the new knock sensor, I would just go ahead and install it. The mating surface between the sensor and block needs to be clean and the bolt specifies a particular torque. If the knock sensor became unplugged, the ECU was retarding timing to the maximum as a failsafe. Reduced power and fuel economy would be noticed.
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I think the blower motor is sort of under the dash/behind the glove box area on the passenger/right side. Does it not work on any setting? Sometimes the blower resistor goes bad and then it will work on the highest setting only. If you can find it maybe try tapping it and see if it comes on. Maybe see if it is getting power to it. There is only one blower.
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Main recommendations I see typically given: 1. trailer brakes 2. auxiliary transmission fluid cooler (if auto trans) (there is an OEM Subaru kit, or you can get them from places such as SummitRacing.com. They are dead easy to put on Subaru's since the ATF lines are just hose on hose barb connections; no fancy proprietary connectors). 3. make sure vehicle is in good shape, all maintenance done, brakes in good shape, etc. 4. don't tailgate 5. personally if I were doing this I would run a heavier gear lube in the diffs such as 75w110 or 75w140
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Hi! Did you make sure to not trap any air in the system? Based on some of the details you mentioned, (upper rad hose hot, but radiator cold, heater hose warm, but no heat) it sounds like coolant is not circulating. Even if the rad were clogged and/or thermostat failed closed, you should still get heat. Was this with the timing belt on? It doesn't seem like you should be able to rotate the impeller with the timing belt on unless the belt is loose. Maybe with engine cold, pull the heater core hot hose (coming off the coolant supply pipe), then crank it for a few seconds and see if you get a good stream of coolant coming out.