porcupine73

It only looks clean because I cleaned it before doing the axle. It was pretty caked up with what I assume was gear oil coming out and then getting dusty/dirty making a muck. I bought that black seal but I don't think that's where it's leaking. The nearest I could tell in a diagram was maybe there is an o-ring behind that retainer but I'm not sure. I was thinking a socket like this but I'm not sure what size.

That's a great idea!

Ok yes I guess that would be easy to see! Hm...what is the main purpose of the covers anyway? Is it to protect the belt from water, dirt, etc. Or it is for safety so cats and woodchucks don't get caught in it? I have a badger or woodchuck that's been living under my '94.

mm...the real world, right...often tend to forget about that. The inside would probably get coated with a thin film of oil from the cam or crank seal leaks and the outside would get dirty as well...would need some little windshield wipers inside perhaps.

Hi. I'm assuming you would use one of those 1/2 or 3/4 ton 4WD sockets with those four prongs to get this retainer off the stub shaft? Anyone have any suggested tools? When I replaced the axle, I had that black seal that is over the stub shaft, but I didn't have a tool to get the retainer off. Is there an o-ring or something else behind that retainer? Are there any precautions to take before removing that retainer? Like will some gears fall out or anything if you remove it?

Hi. Anyone ever seen clear timing belt covers for Subaru? I was looking through Sport Compact Car and there was a T*y*ta with clear timing covers and it looked pretty neat. Plus it's functional. Of course they had these nice purple cam sprockets, etc. Or zzz cut out the front of the oem black plastic timing belt cover and rtv some Lexan on there!

Wow that's sharp and clean. The tints look really good on there.

Someone posted a similar issue a couple months ago and a a/c recharge fixed it. Not sure if the reason it worked ok when moving was higher rpm of compressor made it able to function. But yes, if the fans aren't working, or the condenser is jammed with leaves and stuff, or there is a bunch of leaves or rats nest between the condenser and radiator, etc., it would reduce airflow.

The recall was for alternator part # 23700AA211F Lot range of 62P to 84W Campaign - Alternator Inspection/Replacement NUMBER: WXX-81 DATE: 10/15/00 APPLICABILITY: 1996MY-1998MY Subaru Legacy SUBJECT: Alternator Subaru of America, Inc. (SOA) has determined that some 1996 through 1998 Subaru Legacy vehicles may experience a loss of alternator charging due to a broken brush wire. On vehicles with higher mileage, an alternator brush wire may become fatigued and eventually break as a result of engine operation at high RPMs. If an alternator brush wire does break, the Charge Warning Light will illuminate steadily while the engine is running thereby providing ample time for the driver to seek repair service (depending on the battery condition, approximately one hour of vehicle operation). However, if the warning is ignored and the vehicle continues to operate under this condition, the battery will eventually lose electrical power and the engine will stop running. The program will involve the inspection of affected vehicles for possible alternator replacement.

Hi, just wondering if you guys think I should follow through and finish the rear drum to disc swap on '96 legacy brighton wagon. This will be my DD this winter. Just standard commuting use. I guess I've found the single pot fronts and rear drums to be adequate, but I already bought and painted dual pot front caliper and rear calipers from a '96 Outback I think it was. But I would still need to buy the rest of the parts, backing plates, parking brake kit, springs&cups, rotors, etc. Plus would have to get at least 15" wheels&tires to clear the rotors I assume. However funds are a little tight right now. It needs the front brakes done something fierce. I already have new OEM front rotors, caliper reseal kit, and OEM front pad kit in my supplies for this vehicle that I could just put on rather than using the dual pots I bought... What ya'll think I should do? Thanks zzz

Also the shifter bushings tend to wear out over time thus resulting in more difficult shifting.

How long has the ripped side been ripped? If it's been a while, then I'd replace the torn one thinking it would be the more likely one to be clicking. Sounds of course are weird in cars so it can sound like it's coming from the driver's side but be coming from somewhere else. Maybe you can get a passenger to hang head out the window and listen for the clicking on the pass side to see if you can narrow it down further.

All tires MUST be within 1/4 inch circumference as measured with a narrow blade tape measure or you are asking for problems. If you have an auto and must run tires outside this spec then install the FWD fuse.

Earlier vehicles it was at the front right of the vehicle, near where the ABS hydraulic unit is/would be. Later enhanced evap vehicles it is underneath the vehicle sort of near the fuel filler line.

Nice GT wagon! Sure rub it in! :-p

Were you singing it while doing your lumberjacking duties with the Suby? Most people probably know the lumberjack song, but if you don't I notice the video is available on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K7fXBhmL9e0

What is the replacement interval for that belt? I think it's 105k miles, so if the timing belt interval is still 105k miles too then maybe they figure those items will be done at the same time. There must be other automakers that have gone to this style too? Though most vehicles now use the serpentine style like the H6 probably?

06-07 is pretty new, but the basic 'lift' used to be to use Outback (for Legacy, not sure about Impreza) or Forester (for Impreza?) struts and springs, or those struts with King Spring (renick calls them Scorpion) springs.

Not that I've ever heard of.

Very very good chance your alternator is dying. The ABS light and some other indicator lights get their ground through the alternator field circuit, so if the alternator is going flaky these lights may come on or flicker. This is definitely something to check out right away or otherwise prepare for to avoid being stranded.

Good question. Nipper has a thread going on for this right now. I have noticed output as low as 12.8V sitting at idle (engine at operating temp) and no accessories on. These cars ('00OBWs) have DRL too so that probably doesn't help.

What year and model Subaru? Is it that style where the top hose enters the radiator at the center of the top? I hear those are more prone to clogging possibly due to flow stagnation in certain areas. Did you run gm dexcool or other OAT antifreeze in there? That stuff will glop up if the system is getting air into it all from any leaks or a bad radiator cap.

What year and model Subaru is this? I notice on '00obw at idle it bumps up the idle about .5 seconds before engaging the a/c compressor. I don't notice the engagement much when it cycles while driving. I can feel it cycling on the '96 though. I don't notice it at all on the '94 but that's because the a/c doesn't work on the '94. I wouldn't worry about it too much before going on a trip. I mean if the a/c clunks out or whatever, just remove or cut the belt to the a/c compressor and you're good to go.

Well there are all those Subaru editions, the alpine, sunsport, etc., so you have the lumberjack. I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK, I sleep all night and I work all day.

SUBARU to the rescue! Cool story. Hey...are any of those logs worth anything? I saw a few shows on TLC or Discovery where they were harvesting these logs and getting up to $40,000 per log harvesting them from the bottom of some lake or river or something by making the rare original growth hardwoods into veneers. I think they found some that was used to make Stradivarius violins?