porcupine73

Uh oh better strike now! The demand is going up as a result of this thread! And copper cost.

Well the closest diagram I have is for a '94 Legacy....maybe it's useful?

That particular reman alternator is probably so much less expensive because of the WXX-81 campaign for some 1996 through 1998 Subaru Legacy vehicles that may experience a loss of alternator charging due to a broken brush wire. That involved a lot of alternators so the price is less due to the quantity involved.

I didn't see Threebond 1280B listed in that link though. I did note this in EndWrench previously: Three Bond Sealer 1280B - Subaru of America has located a source this sealer in the U.S. The sealer should be ordered from your Subaru parts department under part number SOA5499100. One tube can be used for approximately seven engines. If you are working on an H-6 that requires this sealer, be sure to use Three Bond 1280B and not Three Bond 1215. A google search for Threebond 1280B does yield some hits, mostly for the threebond website, but there is reference to it as 'GM liquid gasket sealer' as well. One of the Subaru sites I've seen Threebond products listed is here: http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=SOA5499100 They must not have that page spidered by google because a google search for SOA5499100 yields no hits.

I forget what the OEM belts say on them...I don't think they say Subaru. The NAPA belts are probably fine. But of course you can't go wrong with OEM. (OEM parts can be had from Subaru dealers who sells parts on the Internet typically for much less than what a local dealer charges). Do you have the H4 or the H6? The H4 is pretty simple. You need some 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm sockets/wrenches. Tightness can be tricky on new belts as they will loosen slightly as the break in. But you don't want them too tight either as that can damage the accessories. There's some good articles on EndWrench.com about belts but the site seems to be down at the moment so I can't get the links.

Yes the struts and springs are different. Also I have noted in the service diagrams the Outback appears to have some sort of spacer or something between the suspension crossmember and the body. cars101.com is your friend for all Subaru specs and info, especially newer models that don't have much history yet.

Yes give all the suspension and driveline components a good shake down to check for any looseness. And check the wheel bearings as well.

Sure take all the fun out of it! Hm...how about mounting a small generator up on the roof rack?

Do you mean the vibration seems to be felt at certain speeds? Maybe this chart is useful:

Is the caliper securely bolted to the caliper bracket and caliper bracket securely bolted to the bearing housing? Someone had a weird noise before and it turned out one of the caliper to bracket bolts came out and was letting the caliper move about and rub against the inside of the wheel.

Highly unlikely that saw draws less than 100W unless it's a rechargeable type and you just want to charge its battery. Look on the nameplate for the device, it should say the power draw. You really need to know the VA (volt-amp) draw of the device (since the motor is inductive, it will require more VA than watts). Also the inverter would need to be able to handle the surge/inrush when starting the motor.

If the EndWrench pdf's don't work for you: When you get to the endwrench page that has the link to the .pdf, do not click on the link. Instead right click the link and pick 'save target as'. Then save the .pdf file to your hard drive. Next open Acrobat Reader and open the .pdf file. [Try this with the links 99OBW listed above]. If that doesn't work, reinstall acrobat reader or install a newer version. The EndWrench articles are very valuable information, especially for this kind of issue, and they tell you where all the components such as purge valve, etc are located.

Push the release lever to retract the push rod of the operating cylinder and check if the fluid level in the clutch reservoir tank rises or not. If the fluid level rises, pedal free play is correct. If the fluid level does not rise, or the push rod cannot be retracted, adjust the clutch pedal. Inspect the underside of master cylinder, clutch damper and operating cylinder for clutch system, hoses, piping and their couplings for fluid leaks. If fluid leaks are found, correct them by retightening their fitting bolt and/or replacing their parts. Check the fluid level using the scale on the outside of the clutch master cylinder tank (A). If the level is below "MIN" (, add clutch fluid to bring it up to "MAX" ©. Recommended clutch fluid: FMVSS No.116, fresh DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid Avoid mixing different brakes of brake fluid to prevent degradation of the fluid. Be careful not to allow dirt or dust to get into the reservoir tank. Use FMVSS No.116 fresh DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid when refilling fluid.

One torque bind check is get into a dry parking lot and make sharp turns/circles/figure 8's in forward in reverse. The vehicle should make the turns with little or no throttle. If it stops, feels like the brakes are on, binds, pops, etc., then it might have torque bind. Of course all tires should be measured with a narrow tape measure around their circumference to see that they are within 1/4" circumference.

Is the ATF fresh and clean and the proper level? Does it have torque bind at all? If the AT thinks it has detected slippage of its clutches it will raise the line pressure to try to stop the slipping but it also makes the shifts hard.

Yah it is so much nicer than those transverse mounted engines or the ones that bury all the accessories about half way down right in front of the frame! Did you blow the main fuse while replacing the alternator? hehe just kidding I had a little issue last week with that...

What year and model Subaru do you have? Earlier models have the canister under the hood near the ABS pump. Later models with enhanced evap have the canister under the rear of the vehicle near the fuel filler neck. There's several good articles on EndWrench.com about this code.

Right on, it's just a mixup with the pictures. Here's what a '94 Legacy wagon looks like:

Not sure about the rubber washer. The sensor does at least need to be grounded by the bolt through the hole. I replaced mine with a resistor, but yes that means no knock protection.

There was a good article on endwrench about the Subaru VIN's but now for some reason it keeps bringing up some article about replacement wipers. Here's another guide but this is for 2000 Outback tho...

Well the geared idler from what I gather is the most likely one to need replacement, but it is the most expensive idler. The tensioner is typically good for another use if it is in good shape and the piston rod is recompressed properly. It depends what you're looking for. On the 105k belts if you want to take it as additional insurance that you won't have to go back in there until 210k then it is worth replacing all that stuff.

Yah the car shown in the picture in that link is definitely not a '94. Maybe an '04. I tried that vin they listed in carfax and it says it is not valid. I checked the VIN at my.subaru.com and it says the 'R' in the VIN is invalid.

hehe thanks for the coin links. That was my temporary replacement fuse. just kidding.

OK well that's not bad for OEM parts shipped. You do have some high dollar parts there. The tensioner alone is nearly $100. Water pump is maybe $74. That geared idler is over $50 I believe. Also it would probably cost even more than list price for the parts at the dealer, so your dealer estimate was probably generous. And right on, for any job you must factor in for at least a few new tools!

What site are you looking at for those parts? I hope that's all OEM parts from a Subaru dealer for that price.