porcupine73

Whistling sounds can also be dirty IACV. What speed(s) do you hear the whine? Does the AT feel like this? (It's for 4EAT Phase II but I've noticed similar behavior in the phase I's) 2. Shock felt during light acceleration with the Lockup clutch applied. Symptom When the driver tries to lightly accelerate the vehicle, when driving at a constant speed in 4th gear and the Lockup clutch is engaged, they may feel a slight shock through the body of the vehicle. Some customers may compare it to a Manual Transmission vehicle. Mechanism When the accelerator is pressed lightly (approximately 20% or less), the lockup clutch is not released. This causes a direct coupling between the engine and the drive train of the vehicle. The slight shock is from the small clearances in the drive train gears, axle splines, etc. If the lockup clutch is not applied then, the shock is absorbed by the fluid coupling in the torque converter. Under certain conditions, this same shock can also be felt when activating the cruise control. Recommendation Explain to the customer what they are feeling is a normal operation. Basically, the lockup clutch is kept on as much as possible to increase fuel economy of the vehicle. Increasing the engine load (driving on hills or pushing the accelerator more) will disengage the lockup clutch sooner. We recommend you try duplicating this during some of your road testing (PDI) so you are familiar with the sensation. To do this, drive at a constant speed around 40 mph. Confirm that the lockup clutch is applied (use Select Monitor) and accelerate using light throttle. You will feel a slight shock throughout the body of the vehicle.

Hm..interesting nipper. Let us know if the OEM works out better. I've been noticing in '00obw the voltage is usually around 13.3V, but when stopped at idle with a/c on and foot on brake it starts dipping...12.8V, 12.7V, etc. Have seen it get down to 11.6V at long stop lights or stop/go traffic....not sure if this is an oem alternator or not.

Yes I had that problem before too. It takes a number of trips to get all the readiness I/M monitors to set after ECU reset or battery disconnection (or every time you turn the car off if you had a '96). The evap seems to take the longest, probably because of the fair number of conditions that have to be met for it to run that test. Not sure if the scanguage will show the I/M readiness status, but most code readers will.

If you can somehow get your hands on a scangauge, it will tell you what the ECU is reading as the engine coolant temp.

Could be backlash in the system/lockup solenoid activating and deactivating. There is a note about this behavior for the phase II 4EAT (though that's not the AT you have). Is this an AWD vehicle and did this behavior start right after the new tires? Even if not all tires circumference should be measured with a narrow tape measure to be certain they are all within 1/4". Even brand new tires can have differences in circumference.

Yes the front profile is nice too! What kind of camera did you use? Those pictures are exceptionally clear.

Nice...I'll bet Blu is happy to be back home. Sounds like there are a few items left to 'tweak'. I really like the side view pic that shows off the lift. Blu does look meaner!

Yes no doubt it would make a great trip. Make sure you wear a Subaru t-shirt or something. Or how about a usmb t-shirt! Sweet. I've been thinking about taking some vacation time to drive down for that tour since it does sound nice.

Schweet! Looking forward to the photos. Did you get the eBay intake? I take it the shifter cable is fixed.

Hello RodA and welcome! From the factory service manual: If the compressor is replaced (after stabilization): Drain and measure the oil from the original compressor. Drain the oil from the replacement compressor and refill with the same amount that was drained from the original [20 ml (0.7 US fl oz, 0.7 Imp fl oz) minimum]. Always use ZXL100PG for the replacement oil. (You might want to verify your system's specified oil; I can look it up for you if needed).

Yes there's lots of good content on cars101.com The site comes up #6 in a google search for 'Subaru' and has a good PageRank, so must be doing something right!

Man I wish I had some of these wiper stalks to sell!

Not sure if they would work or not. Joe has a ton of Subaru key info at http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html Does have pics of the '08 and earlier keys and remotes, doesn't specifically say if '08 key will work on '07.

http://www.subaru-sia.com/community/tour_inter.htm Subaru of Indiana Automotive, Inc. Conducts public tours, at no cost, on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday at 9:30 a.m. Click HERE to receive a tour request form. This form must be faxed to 765.772.7178 within 24hrs of your requested tour date. You can also email HERE and request a tour. You can expect to walk 1 mile on our elevated catwalk tour. A guide will lead you through the plant where you will see production of body panels in Stamping, welding of the vehicles in Body Assembly, finished paint in our Paint section, final assembly in Trim & Final, and testing in our Tester Line. You are encouraged to wear closed-toe shoes and be ready to negotiate the catwalk to include 90 up-and-down steps while walking through the plant. We can accommodate up to 7 persons at a time that may experience difficulty with the walk by using a golf cart.

What happened to it? According to http://whois.domaintools.com/xt6.net the registration hasn't changed or anything. But now it has one of those stupid ad landing pages. domaintools has a snapshot from June. It shows it's registered to some guy in Gainesville FL.

Yes they do. If you go to the Subaru Indiana Web site, there is a link to the tours somewhere in there. It has the days and times they run tours. You have to apply in advance I believe, at least 24 hrs (like you can't just show up). I think that's for security. If you just google Subaru Indiana you will find the site.

I forgot to read what you planned to do with the torque wrenches. For the job you mentioned (timing belt, water pump, etc), ideally you need all three ranges, or at the minimum the 0-150 ft*lb and a low range such as 0-250 in*lb (0-20.8 ft*lb). Crank pulley bolt you will need the 0-150 ft*lb Idler pulley bolts and crank sprocket bolts you could probably use the 0-150, but 0-75 ft*lb would be better. For the water pump and oil pump, you need a low range, such as the 0-250 in*lb, you do not want to strip out those bolts. edit: also you could check out other torque wrench styles such as beam and strain gauge. Harbor Freight has cheap torque wrenches esp when they're on sale. Also note of course that the torque specs are typically for clean dry threads, unless otherwise noted (such as for the crank pulley bolt). So if you put antisieze or loctite on the threads the torque typically should be reduced.

Yes I bought three of those Craftsman click style wrenches, one of each range they had, about a year ago. They seem to work OK so far. Clickers can go out of calibration and are supposed to be calibrated periodically. The biggest thing you can do is when you're done using it, turn the torque setting back down to very low. Don't leave it sitting dialed in at some torque. And right on, you want to use a torque wrench where the target torque falls between say 20% to 80% of the range. I try to go 40% to 80% of the range. So forget about trying to torque valve cover bolts or even spark plugs with a 150 ft*lb unit. I also have the beam types from Craftsman and those work pretty well. It is harder to read the scale when doing higher torques, so they may be accurate but it depends how well you can read it while applying torque.

It is different for each code. Some codes illuminate the CEL/MIL immediately at fault recognition. Some require two or three or more consecutive trips to make throw a code. Until then it is a 'pending code' which will not illuminate the CEL/MIL. Right and then if it doesn't see the problem for a certain number of trips or however that code is setup then the CEL/MIL may go out by itself. Some codes get stored in history, so even if the CEL/MIL isn't on now, it may be possible to get it with a code reader by going to 'code history'.

Subaru description is DTC P0743 - TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SYSTEM (LOCK-UP DUTY SOLENOID) ELECTRICAL DTC DETECTING CONDITION: Two consecutive driving cycles with fault TROUBLE SYMPTOM: No lock-up (after engine warm-up) NOTE: Check lock-up duty solenoid circuit. Maybe you can reseat the connectors if everything else looks good. Could just be the solenoid is bad though. No lockup means your fuel economy will suffer and the ATF may run a little hotter than normal.

Right on, any of those 316 hoses on the intake tubing like to come off. If you had the throttle open when spraying that cleaner in there, it might take some running for it to clear it out. If it is just the cleaner in the intake, running for a while at 1/4 throttle will help clear it out. Usually they sputter and stall if you just try to let them idle after spraying cleaner in the intake.

Hmm...are the contacts for the battery clean and tight? There is an article on endwrench.com about that. I just replaced battery in remote for 00obw and it seemed like I had to press lock and unlock at the same time before it would work again. haha yes actually I am from evans, just south of derby. I have eaten at hoaks before but not recently. Actually I work in Tonawanda.

Are you sure this vehicle is equipped with the remote keyless entry? It wasn't standard on all models and sometimes it was incorporated with the security system package.

For the '96, it might just be the TCU applying the clutches and such to do the shift. It doesn't just slam the solenoids from off to on, it goes from 0% to 100% duty cycle at 50Hz and this can cause a brief audible buzz. For the '99, Engine Noise When ColdThe Subaru Technical Support Line has received several reports from the field of an engine noise that could be mistaken for an internal engine noise on 1999-2000 Impreza, Legacy and Forester models equipped with 2.2 and 2.5 liter engines. The noise sounds like it is coming from the front of the engine and could be mistaken for failed bearings. This noise is heard after a cold start and will gradually go away as the engine warms up. It may therefore be difficult to reproduce the noise unless the vehicle is left overnight. It has been found that the timing belt tensioner on these vehicles may be weak, allowing the timing belt to move and hit the inside of the timing belt cover. The tensioner bearing itself could also be at fault. It is essential that you listen to the actual noise before reaching a diagnosis. If you suspect the belt tensioner, remove the front cover and look for evidence of rubbing or chaffing. As the vast majority of these vehicles will still be covered by the manufacturer’s powertrain warranty, any vehicle exhibiting these symptoms should be returned to an authorized Subaru dealer for service.

OK thanks I'll have to take a looksee and figure this out eventually or wait for it to get worse.