porcupine73

Was this working before you changed the battery in the remote?

Looks good. Also if you look on the top of the coil pack where the spark plug wires connect, it has the cylinders numbered there as a handy reminder.

Just because the knock sensor is not cracked does not mean it is functioning properly. You only get the knock sensor CEL code if the ECU detects a problem with the circuit. You will not get a CEL if the knock sensor is simply overly sensitive. If the ECU thinks it is seeing knock, it will retard the timing until it thinks it stops seeing knock. Also the mating point of the sensor to the block must be clean and free of corrosion and the mounting bolt torque must be correct.

check your owner's manual, or check out cars101.com

I haven't done anything about it yet. It only does it once every few weeks. I'm not yet sure if it's the starter contacts or the neutral/park switch. The last time it did it, I just kept bumping the key to run about 8 times and then it cranked. Next time it does it, I plan to be ready at the shifter to try moving it a little or getting it into neutral to see if that makes it crank immediately. I have noticed and don't know if it's related that once in a while every few weeks, I can't get it out of park. That solenoid jobby does not pull in for some reason. I have to mess around with the shifter a little to get it going. At that time it is not even energizing the solenoid. I know because I have the trim around the shift console off right now and I can push the solenoid manually to get it out of park but it has no pulling force at all. Most of the time the solenoid clicks just fine.

Ok, well I wouldn't worry about it too much, what part # did you get? Should be 22690AA190

Right on. The OEM o2 sensor will have the proper connector already attached. Some aftermarket o2 sensors do not come with a connector. You have to cut the connector off the old o2 sensor and figure out which wire to match up with on the new o2 sensor, then solder and heat shrink or other seal. Usually they do include these 'quick clamp' butt connectors or other type but that is not necessarily a good connection.

Yes that's a good point. Soak it every few days with some good penetrating oil as far in advance of the job as possible. Then they seem to come out easiest when the exhaust is a little warm. If the vehicle has been sitting overnight, I start it and run it for about 2 minutes. Be careful of course as the exhaust is hot now. But it helps in getting the sensor out. 22mm (or 7/8") 6 pt wrench should take 'er out. Special o2 sensor socket tool not required. Just unplug the connector, feed it through the wrench, undo the old one.

I've noticed this kind of problem on my '94. It seems to be a combination of a worn key and the thing is really sensitive to the steering wheel being turned. Usually I have to do a combination of gently trying to turn the key while jiggling it and turning the wheel back and forth slightly. Then it will go.

I'm assuming that's a 2.2L? Is there a gasket on that oil pump? There is the pump discharge to block o-ring, but the pump itself is just sealed to the block with RTV such as permatex ulta-grey I believe? Also if the pump was removed might as well replace the crank seal. And make sure the screws aren't backing out of the rear case cover over the gears. Does the pump look like this?

Yes OEM is typically suggested for the front o2 sensor. Especially since you said you don't have a lot of free time, OEM is going to be your best bet. It's not a whole lot more expensive than the generic aftermarket sensors, and you will save time because it will fit right and the connector will match right up to what you have. No cutting the connector off the old sensor, figuring out which wires match up to what, soldering, heat shrinking, etc. to the new sensor. For that '93, if you do buy an OEM sensor, you may very well find out it says Bosch on it. Order the sensor from a Subaru dealer who sells parts online; there are many. And it will be quite a bit less cost than buying from your local dealer, unless your local dealer wholesales parts. 22690AA190

I don't know about the heat range, but have you considered the NGK iridiums? Those are known to work fine in Subaru's, which can be fussy about plugs and wires. Buffalo here, which is pretty cold in the winter, stock heat range seems to work fine.

Here's some info about it from endwrench.

Provided the factory setup does apply +12 to the high and low beams and grounds the other side to turn them on, then it looks like your setup should work. Here's an alternative setup that still uses only two relays: (again I don't know if the factory setup grounds the bulbs to turn them on): edit: oh yes if you have daytime running lights that might activate the driving light relay as well.

Ahhh good eye nipper. The front clip looks to be nearly unscathed!

Well that is kind of funny since no one was hurt. I liked her quote

Move down without worry if the manual says it can use 87. Keep track of your mileage to see if you are saving money with the 87. Subaru says if a customer has been using premium trying to avoid pinging and stuff, to try switching brands of gasoline. Also, if you notice issues, it could be due to carbon build up in the heads thereby increasing compression ratio and requiring a higher octane fuel.

Yah those knock sensors can be a doozy. It's the first thing to inspect for cracks (though it can be faulty without cracks too) as it is easy to do. I had my knock sensor out, wrapped in bubble wrap, and grounded with an alligator clip. A few times when driving it threw a knock sensor code, probably when the clip didn't get a good connection. Man the second that would happen the vehicle nearly stalled out and had like zero power. And when the a/c compressor would turn on the engine would nearly die.

If the HG's were already done then that is a bonus. On a cool morning after the vehicle has sat overnight, fire it up and shift it right into drive and make sure it engages within a second or two. A number of the '99's and some '00's had that problem where some low band clutch seals or something went bad 'preventing the rapid buildup of pressure' or something and would take 5, 10, 15 seconds or more to engage. Haven't heard of it on an '01 but I'd check anyway. And of course the torque bind check. Hey is that a 'limited' model, because if so I think you also get the bonus of a limited slip rear diff. I wish I had that... The AWD works fine on the autos, provided the duty c and spool valve are in working condition. The TCU controls that based on various conditions including wheels pin up to 50% power to the rear.

You're right ideally smooth is desired. I just wanted something that was flexible so I could route it quickly where I wanted and cut to length easily. The pic exagerates the ribbiness. The id is actually fairly smooth. Most flexible tubing like dryer hose duct is super ribby. This tubing is 3"id which should be adequate....

You could maybe post in the parts wanted section on this board and see what happens. You're in an area that has a lot of scoob's so you might find a front clip or something available.

Also pull the plug wires off the coil pack and look for any cracking on the towers or anything or any corrosion between the connections there. We want something with insulating properties/good dielectric strength that can handle whatever the spark plugs are fired at, several kV I would imagine. Silicone grease is good to pack in the spark plug boots and such to keep moisture out of there and help insulate. Woah that is one clean engine bay! What is that coating on the belt cover over the ps pump and alternator pulleys? It looks like some sort of granite powder coat? Say also what is that black box on the firewall to the left of the brake booster? Haven't seen that before....

Ohhh those switches are illuminated? Sorry I thought you were talking about the orange switch is on lights not working. Hm...that means my switch illumination isn't working either ('00obw) I just assumed they didn't have back lighting...

hm...o2 sensor missing? You would get a check engine light for that. Unless he did some circuit to fake out the ECU. That would definitely impact fuel economy if it were the front o2 sensor. If it was the rear o2 sensor he was talking about that is for emissions purposes only and would not impact fuel economy (except the reason it was removed might impact fuel economy). If you get a front o2 sensor, OEM is highly suggested. Subaru's are also a little picky about plugs, they like NGK. And they like their own OEM plug wires.

Hi Blondie521 and welcome! First thing I'd check in this case is the knock sensor. They liked to crack on that era and cause power loss and reduced economy without necessarily causing the check engine light to come on. Another possible items is front o2 sensor replacement. These don't last forever, maybe 80k-100k miles is a good lifespan. It can cause reduced fuel economy as well. There are many other things that can reduce fuel economy as well such as dragging brakes, etc.