porcupine73

I think there are differences such as the open vs closed deck thing maybe, oil misters for the pistons and stuff?

Hm...good info. May have to give those pads a try. Yes I just put on oem front and rear pads on '00obw with brembo sport slotted fronts and stoptech slotted rears. The slots seem to fill up with brake pad material somewhat quickly; not sure if that's just what happens with slotted rotors or if it's the pads. I do daily commute driving only pretty much, some fairly hard stops but nothing serious at all.

Wow see the lift is paying off already! Sweet. Hey anybody ever put a bilge pump in a Subaru? Well SummitRacing.com carries the part # of that cam kit you posted early in the thread. Would have to verify with them what it comes with since Summit pic shows only the bolts. Summit has great customer service and for your location you might get it the next day even Saturdays if you order by 6PM.

Optimum Online (Cablevision Systems)

different ip's but same isp.

Ok. Yes I agree swapping the wires is fine. I was just wondering about if the spark plug pairs operate in series or parallel (kind of an unrelated/hypothetical question). From the wiring diagram it looks like they operate in series, but that would mean if you pulled one plug wire while the vehicle is running, the other plug in that pair would stop firing.

Hm...question, on a H4 Subaru are the pairs of spark plugs connected in series or in parallel? if you unplug one of the plug wires, does the opposite cylinder stop firing as well? Like if you unplug #3 wire, does #4 plug not fire? Also welcome surfsubbe, do you have a Subaru?

Hi kc reale and welcome! If the problem is not the plugs, wires, or coil pack, the next step up in the system is the ignitor (which drives the coil pack), and next step up the system after that is the ECU output driving the ignitor. Cylinders 1 and 2 spark at the same time, and cylinders 3 and 4 spark at the same time. Could be a poor connection somewhere along that line.

If you want to try the wd40, coat the plug wires themselves from end to end, like wipe it on with a cloth, and saturate the coil pack with it. I don't know if whatever is in wd40 has enough dielectric strength to stop the arcing. Silicone spray works good, but you don't want that getting into your intake as it can damage the oxygen sensor.

The washing probably didn't cause the damage. But it may have washed off dirt and grease which may have been acting as an insulator and/or sometimes when things are borderline working the slightest disturbance will make them start acting up.

Probably needs new OEM plug wires. Coil pack might also have cracks or carbon traces. One test can be with it idling, mist down the coil pack and plug wires with a spray bottle in a dimly lit area and look for any arcing. Also if you can read the codes that might be helpful. Based on your description it is probably the P0301-03 series of cylinder misfire codes.

I think those dead spaces may be to silence intake noise and/or tune the intake somewhat for Helmholtz resonance. The stock intake tubing does reduce intake noise it would seem. When I routed that flex hose into the fender, sheesh the thing sounded like it had one of those ricer mufflers on it. Routed into that plastic intake scoop thing is better but still noisier than the stock intake tubing.

Typically the more expensive cats have more catalyst in them, platinum or palladium or whatever it is, hence the higher cost and hopefully longer life.

How's their initial grip when getting on the pedal cold?

Hi nipper, did you figure out what to do for the intake yet? I found the pics of the tubing stuff I used from mcmaster.com. Not sure if this is useful or not but here it is:

Hi. Yes the first step is to get the code(s) read. Every ODBII scanner I've seen shows the Pnnn code and many show the generic ODBII description. The code number is what you want, but if for some reason it only gives the description that may be sufficient. It is possible to make guesses as to what the issue is, but knowing the code(s) would be much more efficient.

There's a number of kits available to help with this issue. Generally they include something to sand or buff out the haziness, then some sort of sealer that is supposed to prevent the haziness from returning. I haven't used any such kit yet so I'm not sure which ones are good.

Some manufacturers use such donkeywongles to tune the intake for Helmholtz resonance. So as mentioned it may help low end performance at the expense of a little high end power.

Couldn't find a whole lot either. From the part #'s it looks like 02-06 shared the same calipers for all non-turbo/non-wrx impezas, whereas previously the RS had it's own different number. cars101.com: 2002: Front: 10.7" vented twin-caliper piston. Rear: 10.3" solid disc 4 channel, 4 sensor ABS (anti-lock) 2001: Front: 10.7" vented disc with dual caliper pistons, Rear:10.5" solid disc 4 channel ABS

Hm...perhaps a bulb in the dash is worth two in the blister package.

First thing I would check, if possible, is the voltage at the terminals where the bulb connects when it is supposed to be illuminated.

Get the HG's from a Subaru dealer who sells parts online; there are many such dealers. Though I see your location says international so that may be more difficult. Get the new multilayer steel type, not 'new old stock'.

Hm, well according to cars101.com info, it came with: 15" Alloy 205/60R 15 Front: 10.1" vented, rear:9.0" drum 4 channel ABS (same as other '99 Imprezas except for the ABS). The only '99 Impreza with anything larger is the RS, which came with 16" Alloy, 205 / 55R 16 89HFront: 10.7" vented disc with dual caliper pistons, rear:10.5" solid disc 4 channel ABS

People who do this I believe use the seatbelts from a similar Canadian spec model.

Some people only consider a tranny flush when they start experiencing problems with the AT. Sometimes mechanical damage has already set in and then a flush either makes the problem worse or seems to make the problem worse when the unit was already doomed anyway. Another diy tranny flush method involves pulling one of the lines off the radiator in-tank ATF cooler and then doing the pump and dump method. For radiator/cooling system flushing, there are articles on EndWrench about having it done. If a machine is used, the unit cannot have been used on other vehicle makes that have copper or brass components in the cooling system. I made a homemade flusher last year with a dirty water pump from Harbor Freight, some PVC fittings, and some hose; it seemed to work ok. Chemical flushes are not recommended. Ones like the prestone will leave a soapy residue in the system for many coolant changes to come.