porcupine73

You need to make sure the final drive ratio matches your rear diff, or also get the rear diff. 2000 was an early 4EAT Phase II. Someone here has a nice comparison chart based on transmission model # as to what is what. BE CAREFUL - 1999-2001 or so those early 4EAT phase II's often had a 'slow to engage into drive' issue, sometimes getting to where they wouldn't shift to drive at all. You wouldn't want to end up with something like that. Even if the yard offers a warranty it's still your labor to R&R it again.

Hm it reminded me of the this text:

On a '96 Legacy I used Outback struts with Outback King springs and then put on some larger snow tires I actually had for my '00 Outback. It's been working pretty well for a number of years. If you also go with larger wheels then you can upgrade the front calipers and rotors to something a bit larger for better performance with the larger diameter.

It does sound like maybe bad diode on one of the phases (alt is three phase). One test supposedly is if you put a voltmeter on AC and put it across the battery I think you're supposed to read less than 200mV. I had something go bad on my '00 and it was putting out 16 volts with some pulsing. The car did not like that at all. It sounded like it was misfiring, the ABS light came out, the check engine light came on. Then I shut it off and within a week it drained the battery too.

The coolant life really varies a lot depending on what got put in it. I think in that era the normal change interval was maybe 3-5 years. If the previous owner replaced it with Dexcool that supposedly has a longer life but Subaru said to never use that type of coolant in a Subaru (though I suspect that is what the new 'supercoolant' actually is). Subaru didn't like flushing machines because it might cross contaminant your cooling system with brass and other metals from other vehicles. Usually I just drain it, refill with distilled water, run for a bit, let cool, drain, repeat that a few times, then refill with new coolant mixed with distilled water. I've been using Zerex G-05 (an HOAT), it seems to be working ok, but it's kind of hard to see what the coolant jackets look like inside, etc to say for sure. Zerex has a newer Asian formula out too but it came out after I started using G-05 so I never switched.

Sometimes the a/c compressor clutch will squeal for a moment when it kicks in but usually I don't think it would be a continuous squealing.

Looks like you already figured it out, but right, that would probably be a major project. Just one of the issues is that the 2000 2.5 had the speed density based airflow measurement whereas the 95 2.2L was MAF based.

Another possibility could be if the a/c is cycling on and off. Like if you have it on defrost or any setting like that?

There's lots of places these engines can leak oil. Basically unless it's gushing out oil it's usually cheaper to just make sure you keep it topped up than to fix up the leaks. The caveat would be the timing belt. When replacing the timing belt it makes sense to do all the accessible seals such as crankshaft seal, cam seals, any cam cap o-rings, plus, since you need to pull the valve covers to do the valve clearance check, there's bolt hole seals you can replace in there. If it seems to be leaking from where the engine mates to the transmission, it could be the separator plate. The plastic ones can leak a lot.

Sounds good, right, with the gauge set you tap the high and low side at the same time then after running it for like 10 minutes you can read the pressures. It comes with some charts and other stuff to tell if it's in the right part of the performance curve. I picked up a set but didn't use it because it didn't come with one of the quick connect fittings for one of the taps for some reason. Some auto parts places might let you borrow the gauge set. I remember seeing reviews for the HF set, there were two styles. One style was garbage and leaked a lot I remember reading that, and some other style got pretty decent reviews. GrossGary had a HF review thread on there some time back; not sure if this gauge set got reviewed ... If it short cycles like the compressor just comes on for a second or so then shuts off and you get a bit of hot/cold cycling at the vents that usually means low refrigerant. But if it's cycling on and off every few seconds and you get nice cold air at the vents it was probably just fine before the excess refrigerant got added.

Right could be leaves and other crud possibly in the blower area, I think people have had that happen before. I think the airflow should be comparable to other vehicles. I have a '96 Legacy and with the blower on hi and set to the dash vents it moves pretty good air, definitely comparable with any other vehicle I've driven. So I think right maybe you have something blocking yours. When you put the fan setting on the max setting it should not have the blower motor resistor in the circuit so that should not be the issue.

Maybe you need to use a gauge set then. Harbor Freight has a set on sale cheap sometimes, I think there's one style of it that is better quality. I was reading some info on overcharging refrigeration stuff in general and it said when it's overcharged, it can allow liquid refrigerant to enter the compressor suction line, then the liquid enters the compressor crankcase, and since liquid isn't compressible then it makes the compressor lock up.

Except maybe under high ambient temps when idling, the compressor is supposed to cycle on and off. If it was blowing cold air maybe it was fine.

When you say it was turning off and on, do you mean the compressor was just cycling on and off? Or do you mean it would blow warm then cold then warm then cold?

Not sure how common this is, but if the bypass valve on the oil pump is faulty it could cause low oil pressure. The pump itself is pretty simple, a gear/cog style positive displacement pump. It seems like the heck would have to wear out of the gears before it would trouble. The backing plate screws right, those were often a problem too. I had trouble a couple years ago with oil pressure after changing a timing belt, valve cover gaskets and some other things. It turned out to be the oil filter. On a whim I tried a new oil filter and that solved it. The filter on there I had just put on when doing the timing belt. I cut open the old filter to see if it was defective. The filter was fine but there was this black sludge junk plugging up the filter. It was strange, the problem never came back. I think the previous owner didn't change the oil often and on this oil change along with the timing belt and other work is dislodged a lot of crud all at once and plugged up the oil filter.

Hi, wasn't sure if this was posted, I picked up a Napa silver 31334 oil filter. The guy said it was on sale. The price was about $2.69. Not sure if that is nationwide or how long it's on, but it seems like a decent filter at a good price. I asked if it was made by Wix; he said all Napa's oil filters are made by Wix (not sure if that is true). i know Napa Gold filters were traditionally made by Wix.

Thanks for the help guys it's fixed. I ended up using all 5/16" fi hose. I made sure to get the actual fi hose not just fuel hose. I put three of the high pressure oem style clamps on each line under the seat. It has a few tight bends in the hose but it didn't seem to collapse and it does run, so hopefully that will do it? I wanted to use the cunifer hard line but it was too hard to bend. I wouldn't have been able to route it from the fuel pump over to the lines under the rear seat. The smaller 3/16 cunifer is pretty easy to snake for brake line, but the 5/16" is much harder to bend, it can't really be snaked through blind areas. I was able to find the fuel tank leak. It's at the tank seam/weld above the driveshaft/exhaust. It's pretty rusty there. As long as I don't fill it it too much it doesn't drip. I'm sure that's not ideal but I think it's fairly safe still. If it were actually dripping all the time I wouldn't drive it like that but with no dripping at least I feel a little better about that.

Thanks, yes, I think hose would be the quickest fix. I think I have a box of 5/16 fi hose somewhere. I might go that route instead of the cunifer once I get in there. The tank leak I'm not 100% sure. I noticed it drips if I get more than about 1/2 tank in there. It seems like it is coming from above the tank seam someplace. I can't quite see the source of the leak. I replaced the fuel filler neck a couple years ago but I'll have to take a closer look around in there. I don't mind running with just 1/2 tank but it would be nice to be able to fill up especially in winter.

Thanks that sounds like it would work. That way I could bypass the existing hard lines over to the tank which are probably pretty rusty too. I'll leave the vent line alone. Since the tank has a leak anyway it never builds up any pressure. Why the CEL never goes on because of that I'm not sure but the '96 were a little funny with their ODBII. Maybe I can get steel brake line already flared in 5/16" That would probably be cheaper than the cunifer. I think dropping the tank probably would be difficult because of all the rust. Dropping the tank it looks like you pretty much have to unbolt all the suspension, the differential, and crossmember for it to drop down enough to get the tank out? eta ... I decided to go with the 5/16" cunifer line. I've used that for brake line and it is very easy to work with. You can bend it by hand without kinking it and snake it around slight turns. So I think I can snake that over the top of the tank over to the fuel pump, cut the existing hoses where they connect to the old rusty hard lines, and slip them on the cunifer lines. I got these 5/16" double flare unions and nuts from Summit. These will make the union from the existing lines under the rear seat to the cunifer line. Amazon has them but takes too long to ship. Allstar Performance ALL50132 - Allstar Performance Inverted Flare Unions Allstar Performance ALL50140 - Allstar Performance Inverted Flare Nuts

Thank you, I will look into it. I think it would be safer flared also. I measured the supply and return lines, the o.d. is about .315" or 8mm. The vapor line o.d. is ,.262" or a bit over 1/4".

Hi, what's a good way to fix a section of rusted out fuel line? It's on my '96 Legacy brighton wagon. It's the lines under the driver side rear of the vehicle. It's steel lines that pass under the rear seat, through a rubber grommet, then there's some rubber hoses that connect it to the steel lines going to the fuel pump. The supply and/or return lines are rusted under the vehicle and are leaking pretty badly when the fuel pump is running. I think the vapor line is ok. The two main ways I can think are 1. Use a dremel to cut the lines under the rear seat, attach a length of 5/16" fuel injection hose, to a 90 degree elbow hose barb, then to the existing hose underneath. This seems like the easier approach, but having any rubber fuel line connections inside the passenger compartment seems like maybe a bad idea? 2. Use a dremel to cut the lines under the rear seat and use flare connections to 5/16" cunifer line. Maybe run the cunifer all the way over to the fuel pump since the existing steel lines above the fuel tank might be in bad shape too? http://store.fedhillusa.com/5168mmtubingandnuts.aspx I'm guessing the supply and return lines are 5/16" / 8mm. The rust monster is really getting to this vehicle. I've done the transmission cooler lines and rear brake lines because those rusted out in previous years. The fuel tank leaks if I put in more than 1/2 tank of fuel. My shop told me about $400 to put in a used tank. So I've been just running it at no more than 1/2 tank of fuel.

Thanks for the assistance. I ended up going with the OTC 7208A. It worked well. I used a bolt and some 3/4" npt black pipe fittings to hook it up to a 18{ length of 3/4" npt pipe. Then I put a 10lb barbell weight on it and a pipe plug. It worked very well and pulled the hub out after maybe 4 hard pulls.

Right may need a parking brake kit then too. Sometimes when taking the rear rotors off the parking shoes will just fall apart. It's not too hard to replace that stuff. On all my soobs with rear disc brakes eventually the linings came off the parking brake shoes and then it made this strange grinding noise in there. Those caliper bracket bolts can be a pain. I almost always replace them with new if they look even slightly worn. I hate when they snap off.

Some of them also have a 'map' as to which fans are on and when, and it has a few variables. Example:

Well, this windshield lasted about six months. I got hit with a small stone on the freeway about a month ago. It made a very tiny chip. I was planning to get the fixed right away. But then later that day there was a long like 12" crack near the chip. I don't carry glass coverage because I don't carry collision/comprehensive on any vehicles and they wouldn't give me glass coverage without it. I got used to the bit of distortion. Since it's going to have to be replaced again I'll ask to look through the new windshield this time to make sure it is optically clear/correct.