porcupine73

It looks a little carbony in there. Did you try spraying throttle body cleaner in there with the engine running at idle? Like a short burst so the engine sputters a little but doesn't stall, and repeat at least a dozen times.

H6710AE000 Legacy 1995-2004, Outback 1996-2004, DUAL POWER OUTLET KIT W/INSTRUCTIONS The pic shows this one mounts in the coin cup holder near the parking brake handle.

Ok. You could also pull the hose off the other end in your pic right at the iacv. You still hear this noise even when that hose is connected to the intake tubing? I mean so that the air going into the iacv is coming from after the air filter?

I'm not completely sure but I think that might be your idle air control valve (IACV) intake hose. Is there anything down inside there? If not, i'd get 'er idling and give some shots of throttle body cleaner down that hose with engine running. There was a note on EndWrench about certain vehicles making a whistling noise if the iacv is dirty.

No, rear o2 sensor is purely an emissions/catalyst effiency purpose.

Wow sounds like investing in R-12 years ago would have been better than .com's!

$86 wow. That's more than OEM. 22060AA070 Forester 1999-2002 knock sensor msrp $97. Can be had for $78 from Subaru dealers who sell parts online. There might be other cheaper aftermarket alternatives if that is the desired route.

Are you sure all the hoses on the bottom of the intake tubing is reconnected? There are a number of hoses down there that come off somewhat easily if messing with the air filter or maf, plus they're on the bottom of the intake tube so it's not immediately noticeable if one came off.

P0141 is for the rear o2 sensor. Did you unhook any connectors or anything? DTC P0141: REAR OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (RO2H)

Wow with R-12? Sweet. Did they have a secret stash? I thought that stuff hasn't been available for years.

You don't have to take the throttle body or anything off to get the knock sensor out. Yes just use a wobbler extension and maybe flex joint if needed. Not sure about the impreza, but on my legacies I can get my hand down in there by reaching in to the side of and below the throttle cables. For the front o2 sensor, really oem is the way to go. Order it from a Subaru dealer who sells parts online to save $ over going to the local dealer (unless they'll price match or happen to wholesale parts). Some earlier Subaru's the o2 sensors were Bosch, some are Denso. The way to get the right one with the connector for your vehicle is to get it from Subaru. Even though the parts store sensor might be made by the same manufacturer, it may not be the same specs. If you get a bosch generic, you'll have to cut the connector off your old sensor and solder the wires onto the new sensor. Also physically inspecting the o2 sensor isn't going to tell you a whole lot.

Nice very nice!

Ah ok cool! Did you use king springs? Here in the states if we want king springs we either have to get them air shipped or get them from renick. Wow that XT6 looks hott!

Good info, I didn't know that about the battery light. That's a good troubleshooting tip. So the alternator field current must be pretty low then? For some reason I thought the field current was in the amps range maybe as much as 10A?

Well that's great! How many miles? Is it AT or MT? Do you have some pics?

Some people just switch over to 134a from 12 and don't seem to have problems with it. Here's the info on the conversion kits in case it's of interest. Subaru Air Conditioning Retrofit Procedures from EndWrench R-12 to R-134a Air Conditioning Retrofit Kits and Procedures from EndWrench

OK. The oil in the spark plug holes is those seals. Four of these should be in your kit. When I put the valve covers back on, I got all the bolts in first, then eased up the torque in a couple of rounds. It takes a little bit to compress the new spark plug hole seals down. The valve cover bolt holes can handle a little overtorque. I just realized I looked at the wrong torque when I did mine and went to 7.6 ft*lb(f). One did start to strip so that is probably about the limit.

haha yes having food in the house for such emergencies is good! Ohh the possibilities..... :cool:

Right on, also the PAG oil for 134a is not compatible with the mineral oil for R12. Check out the Subaru Air Conditioning Retrofit Procedures from EndWrench Check out the R-12 to R-134a Air Conditioning Retrofit Kits and Procedures from EndWrench

Sweet....are you going to go with super swampers?

Hm...that INT999013 kit does have lots of parts! Summit has that part number too but I think Summit's description is wrong: they list it as just eccentric bolts. Does he look meaner?zzz

I got some of these camber bolts from Summit but haven't used them yet. They're Ingalls IEC-I-81260 14mm, supposed to be good for +/- 2 degrees of camber adjustment (I think that's if you use their eccentric bolts in both the upper and lower hole). edit: It seems like these would also work to make the rear camber adjustable, if your strut/shock is the style that uses bolts, not that double wishbone thing on newer models.

I've run a 1 to 2 adapter. There's no risk of overloading the vehicle's outlet since that is fused. The three devices you mentioned are not power hogs anyway so it shouldn't be an issue. Also there is a Subaru accessory you can get that I think gives you two more outlets. I think maybe nipper has one installed? It kind of mounts where the ashtray is I think

What engine? For '96 2.2L it is 3.6 +/- 0.7 ft*lb(f). Or 43.2 inch*lb(f).

This one?