porcupine73

Seafoam in the gas can help clean up the fuel system and clean out the combustion chambers. Sucking seafoam in through a vacuum line on the top of the intake manifold will help clean out more. Also with engine off blocking throttle wide open and using some throttle body cleaner and soft brush can clean up the butterfly. This all helps reduce intake resistance to airflow and increase efficiency.

I don't know if '99 Outback had the full underdoor. The parts list shows just the little left and right covers you mentioned. If you check out this link, then click on the item description, the full underdoor would be 'item A'. But since no item A is listed for '99 Outback I don't think it came with one. But if you look at this link for an '00 Outback you'll see what it looks like with part #. Probably won't fit a '99 though as '00 was the five year design.

Maybe the intake and throttle are all gummed and coked up. Maybe you can give it a good seafoaming to clean things up in there.

Nearly all Subaru's have the two little plastic things over the bottom of the fender openings. Not all Subaru's come with the plastic underdoor which covers the engine bay. If you want to replace it, a salvage yard might be a good place to look. Or this can be a great excuse to get a skid plate!

Hi. If you replace the O2 sensor, go with OEM for the front. The rear can be aftermarket. I would replace the front only. The rear is purely for detecting catalyst efficiency and unless you're getting P0420 or something I wouldn't mess with the rear. In NY, it depends whether you had to pass the high enhanced emissions (New York City and outlying areas) test or just the enhanced (most of the rest of the state). The enhanced does not even sniff test the exhaust; it's purely an ODBII test. As we can see in this thread. there are lots of factors that can impact fuel mileage. Also if your knock sensor isn't in prime condition it could be giving you reduced economy. And it is common on that year model to need to replace it. You might also try switching brands of gasoline.

The only difference is probably the ABS version have a little welded on mount/clip thing for the ABS sensor wire to bolt into. So you could use the ABS struts on non-abs vehicle and just not use the mount point. But to use the non-ABS struts on an ABS vehicle you'd need a way to support the ABS sensor wire.

First question would be tune up. Do you have new NGK plugs, new air filter, good plug wires, fuel filter, driveline fluids, etc. What kind of driving do you do? Like high speed freeway driving? High speed, esp over 65 mph really drops down mileage. Depending on driving style and type 22mpg may not be all that bad.

2,2L ok well that might be free-wheeling/non-interference, and if so, no damage was done. Maybe someone knows what year if any 2,2L's became interference?

There is a good chance of bent valves and/or dinged pistons. However there is a chance that no damage was done. A cylinder compression test would help identify if any damage was done (of course a new belt would have to be hung on first). Unless you happen to have a 2,2L and if '98 2,2L was non-interference (can't remember off hand what year if any those became interference).

Good call on having already replaced the driveline fluids at 12,5 that is so often neglected. I would have all these replaced again at this service. Or at least the ATF. And brake fluid.

Hm...I have to answer no on that one. haha that is a great story! Yes too bad that was before digital cameras!

hehe yes I meant I don't know much about lift kits, but it seems allied is mentioned often and the kits look sturdy and thorough. Wow some of their weapons replicas are pretty impressive too. How about mounting one of those on the roof rack to go with the new name?

I'm sure Blu will be OK. Allied Armament kits are pretty thorough right and well respected I think?

haha yes those names would work. I had a little time so I thought I'd make you up a plate to see if it's a go:

Hi, this is from a '96 Legacy right after turning the key to run:

Cool. Maybe they would be willing to take pics as they go? Is Blu going to get an updated name such as 'mean Blu' after the work is complete?

Hm..this sounds like a nice project! Are you going to take pictures as it progresses?

You go slow when making the turns. It should make it at idle or with a little throttle. In manuals torque bind I believe is caused by repeated/excessive overheating of the silicone fluid in the center differential, which can be caused in a few ways including mismatched tires or improper towing. Then the silicone fluid becomes thick all the time, and results in binding in turns.

There was a note in endwrench about that.

Not sure if this will help... From the KYB 2006 Passenger Car Catalog: SUBARU Impreza Outback KYB GR-2 Front Rear 1993-01 Sport Utility Wagon w/ABS Right Hand 334255 (9) 334109 Left Hand 334256 (9) 334110 1993-01 Sport Utility Wagon Exc. ABS Right Hand 235065 334109 Left Hand 235066 334110 Note (9) is "New Part Number;Available Fall 2006" AGX struts are also available for these models.

Does Subaru do that 'hold back' thing with the dealers, like where the dealer gets $1000 or whatever back after the car is sold, but keeps the apparant 'dealer invoice' price higher? Also I hadn't heard of it before, but there is this 'Subaru VIP' program you can get through various groups which I guess gets you the vehicle at dealer invoice price? But you have to be a member of that group for at least 6 months to qualify. A google search shows up a number of qualifying groups.

That's so true. A good shop is hard to find. I found the maintenance stuff at http://www.subaru.com/owners/schedules/index.jsp

AFIAK Subaru service does not have to be done at the dealer for warranty to remain in place. I've heard Kia is really bad about that. Of course that dealer insists they do the work, this kind of work is a gravy job - doesn't take long to do and they make $$$ of it. Let's see...what actual work does '05 Forester 60k service entail (not including inspections of fuel hoses, brakes, etc)...replace engine oil and filter, replace engine coolant, replace fuel filter, replace air filter, replace spark plugs, replace brake fluid, rotate tires Any decent shop can handle that work. The benefit of having it done at a Subaru dealer is you will get OEM Subaru parts. If you go elsewhere, make sure they use NGK or other Subaru recommended plugs. Also if you go to other than a dealer for the coolant, make sure they know how to get any trapped air out, and don't let them use dexcool or all makes/all models coolant in there. Yes as grossgary said this is a good time to get all fluids replaced if it hasn't been done already - differentials, transmission, steering, etc. Inspect ashtray....yes that's a good one. Top off oil, drain wallet.

It sounds like it is overbraking the rears/underbraking the fronts. Not sure what would cause that?

Did you jumper out the evaporator thermoswitch, or did you jumper it so the compressor just ran constantly when the a/c was on?