porcupine73

Hm...yes I have an '00obw in the same general area (Buffalo) and yes it is rusty underneath. I used this diy undercoating kit from jc whitney that uses your air compressor. It sprays this tar like stuff that is really sticky and then dries to a rubbery coating. It has been working fairly well. Other than that probably any rust proofing place might be able to help. Around here, a number of people like to cross the peace bridge and get the Krown rustproofing in Canada. I think their stuff is similar to amsoil heavy duty metal protector, which is what I use in the doors.

Yes the aftermarket rotors on the vehicle when I bought used did not have the 8mm holes either. So an amount of torching and sledging were required to get the old ones off. For brake pads, did they list specifically for an OBS and not just listed as for an Outback?

The only issue I am aware of would be any problems with having the propeller shaft disconnected from the trans output. Like whether it would stay in place. If you can get past that part, then yoinking out the rear diff, and somehow hacking off/dismantling the half shafts at the outer joint might be possible.

It sounds like you are removing the caliper bracket to spindle/wheel bearing housing bolts. You need to remove these bolts only if you are planning to pull off the rotor. These bolts are often tight and hard to remove. Even with a good air impact wrench, heat, and penetrating oil, they were hard to get out, and were in bad shape so I replaced them. Also, yes, WD40 is not a penetrating oil. For available retail penetrating oils many like pb blaster. If you are just replacing the pads, you need to remove only the bolt for the lock pin on the caliper. This is probably 14mm as you had indicated and is the bolt at the other end of the caliper than the bleeder. Then the caliper will swivel up on the other pin (guide pin). For impact wrenches, some people like electrics because you don't need compressed air. Good electrics such as the milwaukee can work, and are great for lug nuts, but it would be hard to find an electric with the torque capabilities of a good air impact. I have the ingersoll-rand 2131qt and it has gotten out many a tough fastener so far.

Right on, GM uses the 'dexcool' OAT coolant. This type of coolant Subaru specifically says not to use. This is the stuff that has caused glooping/gelling issues in some vehicles, especially if any air is getting sucked into the system. The closest parts-store available match to genuine SUBARU coolant is BASF G-05, licensed to Zerex and some others.

I don't think Subaru ever said what percentage have HG issues. Many of the phase I 2.5L engines are up there in mileage at this point since they're like at least 8 years old now. There was an offer from Subaru to extend the warranty to 8 years or 100,000 miles if the conditioner was added per the TSB and some other conditions, but I think that was on the phase II's. If the HG's need replacing, typically you want to get the new style OEM HG's. These are multi-layer steel. But you don't want some old stock from the shelf. Not sure about aftermarket Subaru HG's; I did hear someone say they had been using cometic gaskets in Subaru's with good results.

The Subaru coolant additive is relabelled holts radweld from the U.K. It costs $1.50 on up depending on how much the dealer marks it up. This stuff doesn't do much for the phase I exhaust blowing into coolant type failures. It may be more effective for the phase II external peeping leak. IIRC Subaru did retrospectively say to use this additive in all Subaru engines and it is added to all new Subaru's at the factory. Not sure if I'd use the GM pellets....since GM uses that potentially glopulous oat dexcool coolant.

Yes the oil pump can be resealed. Permatex ultra grey is something Subaru mentioned can be used instead of whatever special fujibond or threebond they specified. There is an o-ring at the pump discharge to block interface that would be replaced at this time. And the screws for the rear case that covers the rotors can be checked for loosening/backing out. If you want to rebuild it, you can get just the matched rotor set for the pump. Generally just a new pump is purchased though if the clearances are out of spec. Some have reported marvel mystery oil working to help free up the lifters.

Oh sorry about that; you're right.

He said it's "Just the rears, and the licence plate light." Do the fronts work at all, like with the virgin switch or headlamp switch?

Hm...not really sure. Maybe you could look in the rear RH/passenger side tail lamp area. Some earlier Subaru's used to have some kind of relay box in there that did some stuff with the lights. If you find such a box maybe you can try tapping it with the butt of a screwdriver or something. I'm not sure what this box does maybe it has something to do with the rear lamps. It's the black squarish box with the little orange screwdriver hole thing in it: (this is on '94 Legacy wagon)

I have one, it catches a little bit. It's homemade from some parts from mcmaster.com and a filter from Sears.

There's several possibilities. If the emergency brake was set during this time, it may be stuck. Also the caliper may be sticking or the guide and/or lock pin may be stuck. I'm assuming this has rear disc brakes. Also the rotors sometimes get really rusty from sitting and that can make it drag a little bit until to brake enough to derust it.

Are the front parking lights on too, or just the rears?

The functional hoodscoop is for the intercooler on turbo models. So the obvious choice is to swap in a turbo motor. Hm...and it makes a good excuse to go turbo!

Not sure about the tooth/groove thing. That's probably said because the tooth count on one side is something +1/2 tooth. The endwrench articles are pretty good for details. I remember when I did mine with an oem belt I wasn't 100% sure if I had the tooth counts right, but they looked really close, and it turned out to be correct.

Hi. Hm...cars101.com says [1999 Legacy] Brighton, L, and 30th Anniversary L: more horsepower and torque with 1999s "Phase II" 2.2 liter engine, smoother shifting transmissions, wide spray windshield washer, L models pre-wired for easier keyless entry installation at the dealer. GT models had standard keyless entry.

If you go to http://www.endwrench.com and click archives, then search for evap, you'll find some articles with descriptions, such as Evaporative System Diagnosis Evaporative Emissions Testing

Premium is recommended for certain engines, but not for all. The manual will state whether regular can be used when premium is recommended. Like it may say "Premium unleaded gasoline (91 octane) recommended*** Regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 87 AKI or greater may be used. Using regular unleaded gasoline could result in reduced engine performance. See Owner's Manual for more detailed information."

Interesting result. Typically dish soap also removes wax, so a good wax or sealer afterward is a good idea to protect the finish.

When I did timing belt on '00obw 2.5L sohc, the LH cam was snappy too. As soon as the belt was removed it rotated. The cam can't be off a full rotation; it doesn't matter if the cam is off one full rotation, or 2 or 3 or 600. The crank, of course, must be aligned properly on the mark. Ideally the crank should not be turned while the timing belt is off. Also, the crank makes two rotations per one rotation of the camshaft. New oem cam sprocket isn't that much, maybe $33 or so. Not sure why you have one metal and one plastic. Mine were both metal. Is the '99 a phase II 2.5L? I turned the LH cam back to the proper position, I think I did get it to set there, though it was very touchy. And you probably already know it is the little hash mark on the sprockets to line up, not the arrows.

Whichever you do, if that vehicle has a MAF, the diameter of the intake tube that the MAF is in must remain the same as original. Otherwise MAF reading will be incorrect.

Well you could take it out for a drive and see how it shifts and handles. Especially check for any torque bind. If it was towed with any wheels on the ground for that distance on an AT there is almost certainly damage.

Is the abs sensor on that hub reconnected properly? Is the tone wheel still in good shape on that half shaft? If so, it may be the clearance between the sensor and the tone wheel teeth. It is fairly tight clearence. I noticed on mine there are metal fragments too; I just left it the way it was. There was a note by Subaru about the abs relay sticking on some units. Hence the pump running for no reason in the middle of the night that you experienced.

Interesting. Looks like the front is supposed to be a bentley or maybe lincoln. Here's one I found on some taiwan site: