porcupine73

Give the suspension components a good shakedown. Do you feel any freeplay in the wheels when rocking hard by hand or foot? Ball joint tight? If you lift that wheel off the ground, does it turn smoothly? If everything is tight, could just be an alignment issue. But if you are noticing drifting and vibration something may be worn. The ripped axle boot you may start noticing clicking and maybe vibration as dirt and stuff gets in there. I just tore one and ordered an MWE axles replacement.

If the pressure is low enough, you might get some stuttering or stumbling, esp under heavy throttle. Did ODBI have misfire codes? If so you might get that. When the vehicle is running in closed loop, the ECU will just hold the injectors open longer to get more fuel in there. To a point of course, because below a certain pressure it won't be able to get enough fuel through the nozzle in the available time. You can probably borrow a fuel pressure gauge from autoparts place if you have something like that. Usually they have a schrader type valve to tie into the fuel rail, but Subaru's don't have those valves on the rails. So usually you would tee it in after the fuel filter. Then you can tape the gauge to the outside of the windshield so you can see it when you're driving. You can't (shouldn't) run the fuel line into the passenger compartment of course. If the fuel return to tank line is plugged, then your fuel pressure may be too high.

Hi primoff and welcome! So did the stabilizer bar actually break or did the endlinks break? If the '05 is anything like my '00 it is an easy job, especially if it's just the endlinks that broke. If the stabilizer bar itself broke, you could look into upgraded aftermarket (larger diameter units). If just the endlinks broke, you could put on aftermarket such as Whiteline. I wrote up my Whiteline KLC044 install here. You may feel more body roll in turns, especially hard turns, or bumpy roads until it is fixed. Or it may feel a little like a boat. It would be more noticable if you had front stabilizer bar issues. Some earlier Subaru models didn't have rear stabilizer bars.

Well it doesn't say anything about Foresters but who knows. Steering - Knocking/Rattling Noises NUMBER: 04-09-01 DATE: 08/15/01 APPLICABILITY: 1995-2000 MY Legacy Vehicles SUBJECT: Steering Knocking/Rattle Noise When Turning If you should encounter a knocking or rattle noise from the vehicle steering system please use the procedures below to diagnose and reduce or eliminate the noise. The noise is usually heard when turning and going over a bump in the road such as when turning into a driveway. Please keep in mind that while the noise sounds the same, the cause (and ultimately the repair performed) is different between 1995-99 MY Legacy and 2000 MY Legacy. EXPLANATION OF MECHANISM AND CAUSE The power steering assist is created using hydraulic pressure. This pressure is generated by the pump and then distributed through valving on the steering rack, to the appropriate side of the rack. There is always pressure on both sides of the rack, in order to provide quick steering reaction and a positive feel. When the steering input is negative, that is, straight driving, the fluid is basically just circulated for lubrication, while maintaining equal pressure. When the steering wheel is turned, hydraulic pressure is greater on the input side, while some residual pressure is maintained on the free side of the rack. When turning the steering wheel, even slightly, on rough roads, or especially when entering a driveway over a curb, the tires will input a reactive force through the rack, caused by the impact. This causes the hydraulic pressure in the input lines to force back against the residual pressure in the free side lines. When the higher pressure hits the lower pressure, knocking noise is generated. While some customers may object to this noise, it does not harm the steering system or any of its components. This noise can be reduced or eliminated by following the procedures below. REPAIR PROCEDURE 1995-1999 Model Years If you should encounter the condition on a 95-99 MY it will be necessary to install a Steering Universal Joint With Damper. The Steering Universal Joint with damper are available in two lengths as shown. These parts are available through your normal parts channel. Always check the part number suppression for any changes. After installing the new Steering Universal Joint with damper using the procedures in the appropriate service manual, it will be necessary to drive the vehicle to confirm the correction. 2000 Model Years If you should encounter the condition on a 2000 MY, it will be necessary to install a set of Modified Power Steering Lines. This kit is available through you normal parts channel. Always check the part number suppression for any changes. After installing the Modified Power Steering Lines using the procedures in the appropriate service manual. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle to confirm the correction. WARRANTY INFORMATION/CLAIMS For vehicles within the warranty period, these repairs can be claimed using the warranty information shown.

I don't know what he means by belt shroud allowing air to get sucked in, but weird things can happen if air bubbles are present in the system. Not sure why they would touch that for a timing belt job though. What year vehicle are you having this issue? There have been a few TSB's for various years about feeling like a knocking/clunking in the steering wheel in turns when going over bumps. It says that's normal. Or there are some hose clamps that can be removed or if that doesn't correct it different power steering hoses.

If you have the tc done, they either have to pull the engine or the trans. If they pull the trans, have them check the driveshaft. Looked like many people thought that was the issue in the other thread. Maybe you already had it checked. It does still spin even with the FWD fuse in, and if any of the joints are slightly frozen or loose it's still going to vibrate. If the tc is replaced, replace rear main seal. Replace rear main seal retainer/oil separator plate with a metal one if it is plastic (but that's an H6 so maybe it's different). Reseating the tc can be tricky. It must be seated fully and the bolts cannot simply be drawn down to try to push it in as it could crack the pump.

Looks nice! The Dragon Meet sounds cool. It's hard not to love them white wagons!

I didn't realize at the time that aftermarket upgrades were available. The new ones are probably ok. There was probably a bad batch hence the number of failures on the same era vehicles.

Nice! The wheels look really good with the chrome trim. Are those ASA? (can't quite read the center caps). Did that come with the chromed door handles?

Never heard of that before. Do you have a regular scanner where you can get the Pnnn code out of it? 53B4 almost sounds like it's some hexadecimal value that hasn't been processed to get the P code.

Here's some autometer gauges in my '96 brighton and some cyberdyne in my '00obw...they might not meet your won't look out of place criteria though....

If you're not getting any noticeable shimmy or vibration when braking, then your rotors are probably ok and you can just put new pads in. You will need like a 5" or 6" c-clamp to get the caliper piston pushed back into the caliper body. The rotor thickness should still be checked to be sure it's not below the service limit. You might want to check in the bed-in procedures on stoptech.com For basic normal daily driver use a proper bed-in may not really be necessary.

If you're not getting any noticeable shimmy or vibration when braking, then your rotors are probably ok and you can just put new pads in. You might want to check in the bed-in procedures on stoptech.com For basic normal daily driver use a proper bed-in may not really be necessary.

I haven't yet replaced any wheel bearings so I don't know if that c-frame press would work. I guess it might if you had enough room to work. It doesn't look like the c portion is deep enough to fit though. It doesn't seem like it would be entirely different than a hub tamer. There is an article on endwrench about how to do the bearing replacement with the slide hammer if you're interested. Though it seems to required some special parts. I think harbor freight does have a hub tamer type device...it was discussed in a thread on there maybe 6 months ago I think; I can see if I can find it if any interest. The whole knuckle/spindle doesn't have to come out this way. I don't think there is any advantage to trying to do the struts on the vehicle. They come out and go in pretty easy, at least the fronts. The rears are easier on the wagons than the sedans I think. For the front you wouldn't save needing an alignment anyway because the camber is done by the eccentric bolts and those have to be removed to get the old strut out. Though generally it would be just camber that's off and I've used just a level on the wheel to set the camber to zero.

That's true. For a vehicle that doesn't run and has those kind of issues people won't be beating down a path to the door to buy it. How about KBB private party poor condition value minus cost of repairs minus a hefty discount? If you can get the seller to pay you to take it away that is ideal.

Well it's been over a year since I installed the new stabilizer bar. It hasn't broken again. I made up a page with pics in case anyone else has this happen. I've seen some posts on other boards with it fracturing on 2000 Outbacks also.

I'm not real up on vehicle values. I'd check out some online sources, like maybe the kbb.com values for private party/trade in/dealer for reference. Then deduct the cost of any work that needs to be done. I'd take a checklist with me when going to look at them. Put things in order of priority, like first check for torque bind and tires matching, then hg issues, then on down, like does a/c work, all lights, struts, etc, etc

The first one looks clean. 233k miles is up there, but if it was well maintained it should have no trouble keepin on keepin on. Hopefully the HG's were already replaced in any case with that many miles. The second one says it has has a blown head gasket and cracked rear separator plate. So obviously that's going to take time and money to fix. If the engine wasn't overheated repeatedly severely. And it doesn't state the mileage. Of course clutch condition since they're both MT's. And the torque bind.

Yah on an outer joint I guess it would sling all over the wheel and maybe brake parts. This inner joint slung it all over the exhaust and some other parts. It's ripped open pretty good, though the pic is too dark to really see it. Do these things just rip open suddenly like that? It looked OK before that; I inspected it maybe a month ago. Although there was this time it got kind of soaked with crc electrical contact cleaner....I put plastic over it to protect it but it still got on. I'll probably just get the mwe axle. The only other two options I would consider are oem reman but that's about $180, or maybe a oem from a salvage yard. Well or brand new oem but that's like $300. I am not interested in any from autozone or pepboys or any place like that.

It looks clean; it's obviously just been detailed. You'd really have to see it in person to see if it has the external HG peeping leak issues. If it hasn't had the timing belt replaced, it's overdue and should be done right away. Also if it's the original clutch it might be getting tired too...not that these are serious issues but they're costs/risks to consider of course. Are there any vehicles closer to you? I mean you're kind of far away from that one and shipping costs are going to add like $600 maybe. Or you can fly out and drive back but that's still $$.

That sounds like a good title for a Subaru movie! That one on eBay looks in good shape. But it is a Legacy, not an outback. Plus it's in Indiana and your in Cali so that's going to add to the cost to get it back home...

You can do it in a press if you have the right drifts and stuff. Subaru later revised the procedure to use a slide hammer instead of a press, in part to help prevent deforming the bearing housing and/or damaging the bearing in the process.

OK, some possibilities: buy like a 96 outback or so with blown hg's and swap in a 2.2L from the salvage yard. Or a '95 or '96 Legacy already with a 2.2L in reasonable shape (though maybe a few miles) should be haveable in your price range. Then if you really wanted an outback you could put on outback struts and springs later and be close.

Yes, the LSD limited slip differential additive can be something to try, and Subaru recommended it for certain vehicles at some point if there was binding. Beyond that, a good Dexron fluid should do the job. Some synthetic multi-purpose ATF's that are also suggested for Dexron apps may be more heavily friction modified.

Say one of your front cv joint boots isn't busted open is it? Because yes ooh-ooh that smell it does smell like burning carpet or something nasty. I wouldn't say it's the smell of death but Lynyrd Skynyrd does rock. They just did a concert up here at one of the casinos. Anyway Mine just let out the smoke....it's an '00 outback too, but AT and more miles.