porcupine73

Another Subaru smell thread. Noticed this nasty smell today at the gas station. Figured it was some other car. Then noticed again at a stop light. Then when I stopped at home despot some people were walking by my car and they were waving their hands in front of their noses. So I figured I better have a looksee. Then I saw some acrid smoke pouring from under the hood. Followed the smoke plume down and spotted the RH inner cv joint boot busted open and grease spewed about. This is on '00obw AT 116k miles. Time for a MWE axles replacement! Say grossgary how many miles do you think I could run this for, about 50,000?

Oh sorry about that I thought is was in. This previous thread might have some info.

99 or 00 was when the phase II 2.5L sohc's started. Until ~03 they had the possiblity of the external coolant peeping leak. The best way to find out the price in your area is to look around. Prices vary around the country depending on how popular suby's are there, etc. Try your local craigslist, autotrader, etc.

Maybe with the engine off while parked you stuff the pedal a few times and see if you can get it to stick. There's a few things to check. First if the throttle cable has coroded or gotten dirty inside it could be sticking. Ditto the cruise control cable (if you have cruise). Also the return spring on the throttle body, is that in good shape? Throttle cable lubricants are usually pretty specific. You don't want anything that will stay oily and attract dirt. For my '00obw Subaru says Slicolube G-30M. Probably another of those things that's only available in Japan. Yep a google search for Slicolube doesn't yield many hits. Like 3 or 4.

Sometimes there are other ports. Nipper might know since I think he used one of these ports for his gauges. If you go out to a tee, the thread on the block for the pressure switch is 1/8" bspt (british standard pipe taper thread). 1/8" npt will start to thread in there but it is not the right fitting and could leak. You can get adapters from mcmaster.com or other places.

Hi. One place I know of is renickmotorsports.com They're a Subaru dealer in Calif. that has some aftermarket stuff as well. There's other places too... I'm not going to say whether or not it is a good idea to put nitrous on. Just make sure you know if it is legal to have the bottle installed when driving on the street and if there are any insurance implications. I don't like the dry nitrous systems. It relies on the engine running a little rich at WOT to provide the extra gasoline required. I'd go with a wet shot and start with the smallest nitrous jet it has, which would probably be ~30hp. You can tee in the gasoline solenoid into the hose going from the fuel filter to the fuel pipe on the engine. Fuel pressure on these at WOT should be around 40psi or a little more (you need to know the pressure to select the fuel jet).

I'm pretty sure it's a 5/8" spark plug socket. There's only a few standard sizes for spark plugs, like 18mm, 5/8", 13/16" and mmmm maybe 19mm. I bought this long, like 4" spark plug socket from harbor freight on sale for a couple bucks. This is nice because it is deep enough to not get stuck in the spark plug hole. If you use a regular deep well socket or anything, tape your extension to the socket so it doesn't come apart in the spark plug well. Generally the RH (passenger) side is easiest after removing all the intake tubing, the LH (driver) usually you want to pull the washer fluid tank out and optionally the battery. Depending on the config it can be not much clearence to do the work (not sure about 99 forester though). Oh for torque...I think it's about 15 ft*lb(f) or so.

New crank sprocket is about $25-$30.

What kind of special puller do you mean? SPX makes the special service tools to hold the crank pulley in place while breaking the bolt loose, but there are alternatives.

There's a number of ways to hold the crank pulley still while breaking loose the crank pulley bolt. Big chain wrench, the starter bump trick, screwdriver into the flexplate teeth, wrench on cam flats, etc. If you happen to have an MT, it's easy; just put 'er in 5th and have someone stand on the brake. Also in case you don't already know, these bolts sometimes back out after reinstall if not torqued correctly. I think some earlier books had too low a torque value. After the bolt is out, sometimes just wiggling the crank pulley is enough to get it off the snout. If it's corroded on or something then maybe you need to pull it somehow. I think you will have to get the a/c tensioner bracket out of the way; otherwise probably can't the outer middle timing belt cover over the crank snout.

Also turning reduces rotor mass which reduces its heat capacity.

If you just want to look at the crank position sensor, removing that one bolt at the top of the oil pump that holds the sensor is all that is needed. There is no internal c-clip or anything like that. It is a little bit of a friction fit in the hole. If it's hard to get out you might be right about the corrison. Can it turn at all clockwise/counterclockwise to free it?

Well, when you pull the hose off the pcv valve if you see a lot of grime and oil in there that might be bad. Some say if you shake the pcv valve and it rattles it's OK. But an oem pcv valve is only like $7 so might as well just replace it.

If you have ABS, it's a good idea to open the caliper bleeder valve before pressing the piston back into the caliper. This method keeps contaminated fluid from getting pushed back into the ABS unit. Of course you need to bleed the brakes after that, but it isn't hard. Yes cleaning and relubing the guide and lock pins isn't a bad idea when doing this job. Oh, if you do go with oem pads, and they seem a little tight going back into the caliper mounts, some of the new oem pads were a little too wide at the tabs. You can file the tabs down slightly if they're tight.

You can have to give it a little bit to get through the turns. But you feel binding, popping, wheels hopping, etc that's bad. If it has torque bind, on an MT there isn't much you can do to reverse it. For the oil consumption, a cylinder compression test might be in order. Also it could be as easy as a bad/gummed up pcv valve.

You probably can get away with just pads. You can have your rotors checked for runout. If you weren't getting any pulsation or anything they're probably ok. I was just saying rotors because if you upgrade pads sometimes you would upgrade the rotor to slotted or some other options. This is how you check runout, $7 dial indicator from harbor freight, spin the wheel and read the peak to peak difference. edit: oh yes, your rotors must meet the minimum thickness spec too:

Yes the oil separator plate (aka rear main seal retainer) from the factory is plastic on those years. They can leak. Metal is good and it's good if it is already a metal one in there. If the HG's were done at the dealer, they almost certainly used OEM Subaru gaskets. Hopefully they are the new style multi-layer steel. There is a way to tell, some kind of tab on them. If it has torque bind, that is bad. It can be varying degrees of bad. On the MT's common causes are mismatched tires or improper towing.

Well, torque bind is a common topic, but basically it is driving the vehicle in tight turns forward and reverse in a dry parking lot. It should make the turns with little or no throttle. If you have to really gas it or you feel any binding, popping, etc., it may be torque bind. If it's an AT make sure the FWD fuse isn't installed. All tires should match size and tread wear (ideally within 1/4" circumference).

oem is a great choice for standard daily driver use, even a little bit spirited. Beyond that you're looking at getting into any of the dizzying array of various ceramic and other pads. And possibly rotors. All have various advantages/disadvantages. Check out tirerack.com and stoptech.com for various artilces and inof.

Well the description does say the HG's were replaced. Hopefully it was done properly and with good gaskets. Might want to make sure the title isn't/won't be branded b/c of whatever that minor accident was. I'd work 'em down in price as much as possible. If it has damage the average buyer isn't going to want to mess with it so that could be your opportunity. Also check for torque bind.

Oh sorry that is the idle air control valve. Here's a couple articles on cleaning: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LegNoTurboSum04.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

Have you cleaned your iacv?

Say what year is this vehicle, which engine (2.2L, 2.5L, 3.0L) and how many miles?

You just need to get the crank pulley bolt out and get the crank pulley off. Then get the outer timing belt covers off. Then you can inspect the crank sprocket. If it needs to be replaced, you can either remove the timing belt, or if you can just get enough slack by removing an idler or two that will work. The crank sprocket just slips over the crank snout and sits on the keyway between the oil pump and crank pulley. It just slides on and off, at least mine did.