porcupine73

Hi! I was a little thrown off because your first post says 1988. A '98 Impreza wagon is not an uncommon Subaru AFIAK. Main things to check would be torque bind and that all tires match to 1/4" circumference. Also this year liked to crack the knock sensor. Other than that just keep up your regular maintenance.

You need to check the sensor output with a scope. Just checking resistance tells you only a small part of the story.

The FWD fuse makes no difference on this vehicle - it is an MT. Check your manual, but I think AWD MT vehicles can be towed with all four wheels on the ground in neutral, or all wheels off the ground. AWD auto trans vehicles can not be towed with any wheels on the ground. Check out this article, it should apply to your '91: Towing Subaru Vehicles

salvage yards such as http://www.car-part.com might be a source, or try posting in the 'parts wanted' section on here. You can order a new oem module of course but that will be the most expensive route. Maybe on eBay there might be some used modules too.

Hi. You can certainly buy the OEM repair manual as an individual. Check out techinfo.subaru.com if you want to get it on CD, I think it's ~$200. If you want just certain sections of the manual you can do like a 72 hour subscription for ~$40 I think and get the sections you want. If you want a print copy, check out here MSA5T9406AX REPAIR MANUALS FOR 1998 LEGACY & OUTBACK (all 16 volumes) SET ONLY msrp $700 Sometimes you will the OEM print versions on eBay for a lot less than the price for new. I got a nice set for '00obw that way. A relatively inexpensive way to get access to the OEM service information for Subaru is http://www.alldatadiy.com For your misfire issue: Were all OEM components used (you said 1 shop was a dealer) (especially spark plug wires Subaru's really like OEM plug wires, and oem recommended spark plugs (usually ngk copper)) Also, do not assume that the CEL now active is the same code. Get it read to know for sure. It might still be a misfire code but it could be something else. Autozone and such places will read the code for free. Just make them tell you the code number such as P0420 not just the description. The coil pack and plug wires can sometimes crack and erode at the terminal points that may be why the one shop replaced it. Sometimes just after a fuel filter change you can get misfire codes. When you do the clutch, you have to decide if you want to do the HG's. Also depends if you pull the engine or the trans. Are you seeing any bubbly oily nasty stuff in the overflow bottle or getting any temp gauge spikes? How many miles on the vehicle? Not every phase I 2.5L will have the issue and there are estimates on the number that are developing the problem. If you plan to keep this vehicle for a while and don't want to worry about HG's in the future and there is savings doing it at the same time as the clutch then it might be worth considering.

Well that is a good point: assuming that the crank angle/position sensor is in good shape, isn't dirty, and doesn't have an excessively large air gap to the crank sprocket nubs.

That should be a good daily driver. I"m assuming that's AWD? Other than regular maintenance such as change all fluids and filters, etc that should be solid. Never worked on the EJ18, does that have two 'cam belts'? Rears struts I wouldn't imagine to be more of a pain than any other Subaru. Provided you have the right tools, spring compressor, flare nut wrenches (or chop out section of strut captivating brake line), etc. Unless maybe it has that air suspension deal.

Post in the 'for sale' section on here, or maybe on craigslist. With the 2.2L it will be an easier sell. People will want to know if you remember if it had torque bind, like binding/hopping/skipping in turns. If you want to donate it there are probably places local to you. You could call Mission Motors here in Buffalo, NY (they fix up cars and resell them and the proceeds benefit the local homeless mission) but I'm not sure they'd pick it up b/c of the distance. They would give a tax deductable receipt if you want. Though the IRS rules changed on that now based on what they do with the car.

Subaru has some break in procedure for new engines like do not exceed 4000 rpm or something. Some people like to dump a bottle of torco assembly lube in there. I'd pull the all the plugs and put a couple shots of LC20 or motor oil in there. A neat, but possibly harder, step would be pull the oil pressure switch and somehow inject/pump oil in there to get it circulating before starting since it has sat so long. The thread is 1/8" bspt (british standard pipe tapered thread). Then turn the crank by hand for a few revs to lube it up in there real nice.

I think crank speed is about 300rpm. Is this ignition system schematic from the manual helpful? Also some other stuff from the service manual....not sure if it is helpful: CHECK COIL "+" TERMINAL VOLTAGE With ignition "ON," measure voltage between coil "+" terminal (E10)2 and ground. It should read 10V minimum . CHECK COIL RESISTANCE Ignition Coil Testing Disconnect coil connector and remove coil from engine. Measure resistance of coil primary and secondary windings as follows: PRIMARY Connector & terminal: Resistance: (E10)2 - (E10)1 0.7 Ohm (E10)2 - (E10)3 0.7 Ohm SECONDARY Terminal: Resistance: #1 - #2 13.8K Ohms (Hitachi), 21K Ohms (Diamond) #3 - #4 13.8K Ohms (Hitachi), 21K Ohms (Diamond) CHECK IGNITOR INPUT SIGNAL Igniter Testing While cranking engine, check that voltage varies synchronously with engine revolutions at ignitor connector terminals (B8)1 and (B8)2. CHECK HARNESS BETWEEN ECU AND IGNITOR Disconnect ECU and ignitor connectors. Check resistance between ECU and ignitor connectors and ground as follows: Connector & terminal: Resistance: (F47)9 - (B8)2 0 Ohms (F47)10 - (B8)1 0 Ohms (F47)15 - (B8)3 0 Ohms (B8)3 - Ground 0 Ohms (B8)1 - Ground 1M Ohms min. (B8)2 - Ground 1M Ohms min.

For your torn cv boot: http://www.ccrengines.com/mwe/

Also does your camshaft position sensor signal look like this? You said the timing belt was replaced - AFIAK if it is even two teeth off the vehicle will not start; not sure if it would still spark all signals if it is two or more teeth off though...ECU does know a tolerance for agreement of camshaft and crankshaft positions.

Sorry I wasn't sure, did you check the outputs from the ECU to the ignitor without it being connected to the ignitor? Like if there is a short in there or something it might be presenting too much load to the ECU. Not sure, are the outputs from the ECU just like open collector outputs or does it give +5V or something? Does your crankshaft position signal look like this? They don't say what the amplitude should be though...

You mean like maybe it got scorched?

Yes like just after overnight, I start it up, let it idle for about a minute, then shift through all gears, back to park on level surface leave engine running, then pull dipstick, don't even look at it the first time just wipe it off, reinsert, then withdraw and look at both sides. Sometimes a couple insertions and withdrawals will make it easier to read. I know Subaru wants it checked with fluid at like 172 deg F or something but I cannot get a reliable reading that way so I settle for checking 'cold'.

Is the fluid level correct? Is it bled out properly so there's no air in the system? Is the belt in good shape and properly tensioned? Are the hoses kinked or bent or damaged or anything? It's kind of hard to kink them but since the engine was out... The service manual has some other tests you can do on the pump. If it is the pump, a new oem pump is not cheap, like $300. Overtightening the belt did mine in. According to the service manual, the pump internals are servicable, but I don't know how readily available the individual parts are. Maybe Subaru offers rebuilt pumps.

Did you say you checked the coil pack? What do you get if the ignitor is unhooked from the coil pack?

http://www.ccrengines.com/

Yes, I find it easier on the Subaru's to check the ATF cold. Once it's warmed up I can't seem to get a good reading. When cold, it is pretty easy to see the line.

They're probably not the same sensor. Even AT or MT has different part # sometimes.

Do you know anyone with a borescope that you could peek down through the plug hole?

I was just looking at a drawing for my '94 and there were several o-ring sizes in the system, including 6mm, 8mm, 12mm, and 16mm

L: DTC P0135: FRONT OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (FO2H) Two consecutive trips with fault Are there any additional codes present? If not a new sensor should fix it, provided it's not a wiring issue. The troubleshooting procedure has you check a bunch or connections and resistances and stuff which ultimately ends in replacing the sensor. The bank 1 sensor 1 stuff is the generic ODBII description. Some vehicles have two (or more?) front o2 and sometimes two (or more?) rear o2 sensors, hence the bank/sensor# stuff in the generic descriptions. Yes, rear o2 sensor has it's own codes.

Hi davcoz and welcome! Did you check any other cylinders and get compression? (Like is the gauge working properly, engine warm, throttle blocked wide open?)

I believe those o-rings are hnbr. I got an assortment from harbor freight, but they are sae sizes. I'm guessing the subaru sizes would be metric. Though my friend's '91 dodge colt has metric bolts and i found exact or very close a/c o-ring matches in the harbor freight kit. EPDM is not rated for refrigerants. Neoprene is rated 'good', PTFE and FEP 'excellent'. Not sure if this link will work, but if you go to http://www.mcmaster.com, then search for o-ring, then click 'about o-ring materials' it will show you lots of info. Though I'm not sure why they don't list hnbr since that's very common for a/c.