porcupine73

Saw these articles on EndWrench and thought of this post... Evaporator Icing Countermeasure Evaporator Thermostat Probe Location

Once you get at least 90% new fluid in circulation, then the occassional drain and fill is feasible. Maybe someone can post the calcs again of how many drain, fill, operate, drain, fill you'd need to get to at least 90% new fluid. You want to get to 90% new fluid fairly quickly. Many oil blenders say ideally on the change you want at least 90% of the same brand and type fluid in there. Then after that, try to stay with the same brand and type fluid for your periodic maintenance drain&fills. Mobil1 syn atf works nicely, as does redline, amsoil, and others.

Sure, I'll post them tonight after I get home from work (on lunch now). They're from a '94 2.2L. It's really easy; I mean there are just two bolts in there and then you pull the cap out and put the new o-ring on. I have the o-ring part # and size too.

Yes that list should do you good. Your interval though of course is 60k miles on that engine, not 105k. Your '95 2.2L is non-interference. And yes on that engine there are cam o-rings. The RH on is at the DE (drive end) of the engine and can be done easily without touching the timing belt of anything. I have some pics if any interest. Geared/toothed idler is most likely to be the troublesome one.

Schweet. If body is in good/great shape that might work out nicely as a toy.

mm...not sure. I'm not 100% on this but I think on that year the keyless is behind the glove box, the module nearest the fender.

Okay com'n man! Out with it! I can't go to sleep tonight without knowing the answer!

Check out this article: Proper Fuel Injector R&R Prevents Damage It looks like you're on step 4.

17.4 +/- 2.1 ft*lb(f) 17.4 ft*lb(f) is your target torque. Subaru is saying the tolerance is +/- 2.1. So anything in the range 17.4-2.1 to 17.4+2.1 (15.3 to 19.5) ft*lb(f) is OK. Typically you would set your torque wrench for the target value (17.4 ft*lb(f)), and hopefully if the wrench is fairly accurate and not too far out of calibration, the actual torque will fall within the tolerance. Sometimes you will see them specify different + and - tolerances, such as 134.7 +20 -10 ft*lb(f).

17.4 +/- 2.1 ft*lb(f). Actually I didn't realize it but there was a TSB out for 1990 THROUGH 1995 LEGACY 2.2L, 1992 THROUGH 1995 SVX 3.3L, 1995 IMPREZA 2.2L for knock sensor codes due to breakage of an internal lead wire.

Good idea. When I need axles I'm planning to go with MWE remans too. Price doesn't seem much more than the auto parts rebuilds, and a lot less than the Subaru reman.

Ok. Since you mentioned timing belt I was just wondering if the timing belt was off a tooth but doesn't sound like it.

True, they probably are different specs. The ad for says "Remanufacturerd for Subaru by Cardone" Actually here's the whole article: Subaru Reman CV Drive Axles http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/07FebRemanEW.pdf "designed to meet Subaru OE specs - no other axle in the aftermarket meets that requiremment" "boots specifically formulated to meet sringent Subaru specs for ozone/haet resistance and high spped oscillating and impact durabililty" "All axles are supplied 100% with a new axle nut, dust shields and roll pin" "All outer joints hae 100% resurfaced ball tracks to ensure long-term durability"

The top right of the steering wheel looks like maybe it is cut through? I don't see any inspection or registration stickers (maybe not needed where you are?). What's that bright spot between the fuel and temp gauges?

You don't have to remove that stuff if you have a long extension and maybe a flex joint. I think the bolt securing the knock sensor to the block is a 12mm head. Make sure the mating area to the block is clean. The bolt should ideally be tightened with a torque wrench to the manual's spec. Too tight could crack the sensor; too loose isn't good either. A lot of times service manuals say to remove various parts that aren't really necessary to do the job but make the job easier or safer.

I was just looking in the endwrench magazine and it says Subaru reman axles are done by Cardone.

Yes it appears 3M T-3 black silicone is also recommended. The entire list is here at EndWrench: Recommended Sealants and Adhesives Copied out of the article:

Cool. Yes EndWrench articles are fun, and very informative. Also if you can get them to send you the print copy, it comes before the issue is posted on their web site. May '07 just came yesterday. It is about belt wear, a/c service tips, and valve train service.

The further off one or more is from 1/4" the more likely it is to develop torque bind. The difference can cause a large enough differential between front and rear speeds to make the viscous clutch (MT's) or clutch pack (AT's) get hot or put undue wear/stress on them.

Ah ok. What if you have it in 1 hold? In '00obw it runs up to the redline then just tap tap taps the redline. Like in scary movie n when that guy is driving that red sleigh like in narnia. Not that I do that all the time, it's just the thing is so eager to get out of first gear like it's the plague.

Wow...how long has the crank pulley been off this unit? It looks pretty rusty in there.

Hello and welcome! Your post title says it all. I think there are kits to deal with this problem. Others will know. I haven't had this issue...yet. Did you have the timing belt replaced somewhere recently? Often the crank pulley bolt doesn't get tightened enough and backs out and results in the hogged out keyway as in your pic.

Another reason for redline is engine balance. If you want much above that you need a blueprinted engine. Granted some other parts might be needed too. Jamal has it right. Power is the cross product of torque and rotational speed. What does the ECU do at redline, just not inject any fuel on some cylinder for one stroke?

Someone in a post maybe a month or two ago was saying some Chevy Cavaliers and Dodge minivans and some others have the 5 bolt x 100mm bolt circle pattern. Not sure if the offset is correct or would work on the Subaru though.

Subaru recommends some # three bond sealer in this app. Maybe that's an anaerobic. Ultra grey is an approved alternative. Maybe they know it's easy to find for us, probably like three bond is for them. Rather than recommend some alternative that is hard to find so people just use whatever they can get their hands on.