porcupine73

Hi! Ideally yes all the tires would be the same brand and size. However, the real issue is tire circumference be within 1/4" of each other. To check you need to get the wheels off the ground and use a thin blade tape measure around the tire. Even new tires can be off a bit in the circumference. Just because all the tires say like 205/60R16 does not mean they will all be within 1/4" circumference.

How does the vehicle run overall? I mean does it seem to have reasonable power and smoothness or is it struggling? Maybe this mileage isn't too unreasonable if you're climbing a lot of hills. When you come down the hills, are you having to brake and/or downshift?

This job is doable on '00 with a few tools. It is not much different at all from earlier models. It is pretty easy. You'll need 10mm, 12mm, and maybe 14mm sockets. The alt is a little heavy though. Yes as mentioned definitely disconnect the battery + or - lead before you start this job. Make a note of the position of the belt tensioner before loosening it, that way you can retighten to where it was before. Overtightening is bad.

I've cleared codes while running in '00obw without issues. Two things I can think. First is you have a '95, which might have a few quirks in the ODBII. Second, what code # did you have? I wonder if the ECU may have been in a failsafe because of the faulty component (like not using that component's input), Then when you cleared the code, it went back to trying to use the faulty component and may do so until it recognizes the fault again?

Yes I've heard great things about mweaxles remanufactured Subaru axles (and ccrengines ) This may be a good option for the OP, who wants to avoid aftermarket units but not pay the price for a Subaru rebuild. Wow I just checked the prices on the site and those are not much more than the parts store rebuilds anyway.

If you can't find a gasket at the autoparts place, there's a good chance your nearest Subaru dealer would have one. They may charge more but it's not an uber expensive part. If you were in a pinch you probably could use ultragrey on that too if you didn't have a new gasket or to reuse the old one.

No sealant required for the water pump. You do however definitely want a new gasket. I used some edelbrock gasginch to hold the gasket on the new water pump whilst wiggling it into place.

Good to know the cause. It always seemed a little mysterious. A popular poster has said it may be related to misbalance between the half shafts and noise-vibration-harshness analysis.

Oh ok cool. Wasn't sure the cause of the vibration, just many a post indicating it happening after half shaft replacement, also on other boards too.

Yes the recommend some three bond sealer I think it is which can be tough to find. The approved alternative is Permatex ultra grey, which you will find at nearly any auto parts store. Don't use too much though; you don't want any little pieces to break off and get lodged in the system somewhere. Also make sure the o-ring seats correctly and does not fall out as you put the new oil pump on. It is also easier to remove and replace the front crank oil seal (on the oil pump) before reinstalling the oil pump. Also, make sure your oil pump rear cover case (over the rotors) are tight; sometimes they like to back out. Loctite green (wicking type) can work well on those screws without removing them.

Yes if you can a good used salvage yard one that would be a reasonable choice (if you cna tell it too is not some parts store rebuild..). I too have seen a number of bad posts about the parts store rebuilds, including but not limited to some weird vibration when stopped in drive aftewards. Another option would be mweaxles not sure how they compare to Subaru rebuild prices but those should be good axles.

Good info. I'm pretty sure that's an Impeza/Legacy difference as I've seen that noted in other drum to disc conversion notes. Others have said in this case they have 'coiled' the extra length up along the body somehow.

No thread locker? whoops.

Not a huge deal. I would just thinly paste some jbweld or black rtv over it just to be sure water doesn't get in. The bolts often snap off and/or the covers crack at the bolt holes.

Not sure if this helps, but I got some 15" steelies for snow tires from discounttiredirect.com a few years ago. Unfortunately they weren't much less expensive than their cheapest allow wheels. How about what some people were saying about various other vehicles being very similar except maybe offset such as Cavaliers and some Dodge minivans, with the five lug pattern on a 100mm bolt circle?

From experience on room air conditioners where I have moved the thermoswitch from right in front of the evaporator to outside, what nipper says is exactly what can happen. It happens mostly if the outside air is cooler than the inside air and/or if the inside air has high humidity. The evaporator will form a solid ball of ice on it and it takes a while at low fan speed to unfreeze it. (I moved the switch because sometimes the thing won't go cold enough so I put a little heater on it.)

If you get a front o2 sensor, an OEM one is the best bet. Rear isn't so critical on brand. Get it from a Subaru dealer who sells parts online; it'll probably be less than the local dealer. Getting 80k miles out of an o2 sensor isn't too bad. Also small leaks even tiny unnoticable pinhole ones can cause this code. Though on an '02 you probably don't have that issue.

Yes these bolts are often TIGHT. I got mine off with the sears 1/2" breaker bar with a 3' piece of pipe on it. Even then it was tough. Of course only 6 pt socket, 22mm usually, flank drive if possible, is really suitable. If you want 3/4" drive, sears has 3/4" breaker bars but all their 3/4" drive sockets at least in the stores are 12pt. You can get nice Armstrong sockets individually from mcmaster.com Of course when the bolt gets put back in it needs to be the right torque b/c you don't want it loosening up later.

Glad you found the problem. Good point. I had used it in the past for jacking (with the jack cup inside the ears though so nothing bent...yet). Will try to avoid it for that purpose in the future!

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If not you may be able to borrow one from autozone or a place like that. Very easy to put inline after the fuel filter on the Suby's. Then tape that thing to the windshield so you can see it and see what you're getting. The deal with the coolant temp sensor is sometimes when they go flaky, they read a high temperature even though the temp is low. So warm starts = OK. But on cold startup it thinks the temp is higher than it is and makes the a/f ratio too lean. And the ECU doesn't yet have the luxury of the o2 sensor being hot to be able to use for a/f ratio control.

I'm not sure if the e-brake cable is required. I haven't actually gotten around to doing my swapout yet, but it seems the parking brake cables were the same part # for drum or disc. Yes, you need the ebrake parts from the disc equipped vehicle, the springs, cups, hold down pins, pads, etc. The disc brake parking brake is esentially a drum brake inside the disc, completely separate from the caliper and disc pads. Whereas the parking brake on the drum brake just uses the regular drum brake pads for braking and parking function. That pic I attached in post 4 shows just the e-brake components. Then the rotor goes over that, and the caliper and bracket and disc pads are over that.

Part # lookup says 27031FA130 PROPELLER SHAFT FOR 1993-2001 IMPREZA 4WD with AUTOMATIC TRANS ONLY. I did not see any other Subaru's listing this part #.

Are they sure there are no leaks in the exhaust system before or shortly after the sensors? Even a small pinhole leak or slightly leaky gasket can cause an issue. The other thing would be use a brand new OEM sensor for the front. I'm not sure if that's what you have.

It could be a few things, but a common cause can be the engine coolant temp sensor.

If you can't find the 4EAT and Outback diffs, one from a Legacy may fit. It will have the Legacy drive ratios and your speedo may read low. Other years up to '98 may fit too but the wiring harnesses for the trans might not match up exactly.