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Everything posted by porcupine73
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Hello and welcome! Hm...when you say it drives fine, do you mean you drove it without the belt on the PS pump? Was the rack bleed through? You know like turning the wheels lock to lock jacked up etc there is some procedure in the manual. Once when trying to flush a unit and driving the pump with a cordless drill, it would not take any fluid for some reason. When I turned the steering wheel a couple times, then it started working... Can you blow compressed air through the supply line to see if anything comes out the return line? The lines aren't somehow reversed at the pipes? The squealing sound is probably the pump's internal pressure relief valve opening, which I think is around 800-1000psig.
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Part of it could depend on it the weight sensing seats are just a switch....like it closes above a certain weight. Then you could probably just make the circuti think the weight is there all the time. If the thing has some kind of output, resistance or whatever, proportional to the weight, that could be more tricky....
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Hi. '00obw, auto trans, 119k miles: twice in the past few weeks I have had a no crank situation. Like hit the key to start and nothing, can hear the relay click in the dash. Have had this car for two years and it's never done this. The first time last week I was messing around hitting the starter with hard object, was ready to try jumping the starter solenoid with a lead when I remebered seeing on here about the 'neutral safety switch'. I was getting nervous about anyone seeing me in a Subaru with the hood up, so I moved the shifter just a little and poof she fired right up. phew. Get that hood back down. Then today when leaving work it did it again: no crank. I just touched the shifter and then it cranked. Should I choke it up and replace this neutral safety switch? Is this thing like on the AT itself, or is it under the shifter somewhere? Didn't see much info in the manuel but maybe I'm not lookin the right spot. Or does it just need adjustment? I confess I did not search first.... edit: also today when it wouldn't crank I noticed a faint smell of chicken, but it's probably not related....
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Yah I kind of doubt the immobilizer system can be disabled...that would kind of defeat the purpose. I would not buy that warranty. But it depends on what you want. That vehicle will probably be pretty solid. If you want it like 'insurance' then maybe OK. A lot of insurance companies offer comparable plans for less cash. You definitely want to ask what the warranty does NOT cover. Like some plans will, if say the oil drains from the engine, cover the cost of the oil, but not the cost of repairs to the engine.
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This may be a case of if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Yes it may eventually develop the HG issue. But maybe it won't. If you have a backup vehicle available and can tolerate downtime, then I'd wait. If you can't tolerate any downtime, like you'll get fired, then maybe you want to replace now. And hey something else could blow up before the HG's go, who knows. There's this d00d on toronto-subaru-club that swears by cometic HG's over OEM HG's....???
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I can't find it off hand but I know I saw in the 4EAT literature (can't remember if phase I or phase II) that there is a reverse inhibit valve in the valve body. It prevents reverse above something like greater than 8mph so there should be no damage done. When you say the vehicle shut off, do you mean it stalled?
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Hi. Before replacing the plugs I would check the other items listed. If the plugs look in good shape and coil pack checks I would put that money into an OEM wire set before plugs. The NGK iridiums you bought should last quite a while unless they got fouled or cracked for some reason. In order of increasing price: The V-Power BKR6E-11 is an OEM part in this application. 1996 SUBARU IMPREZA L 2.2 H4 EJ22E FI Spark Plug Part No. Stock No. Plug Gap Photo Standard BKR6ES-11 5553 .044 V-Power BKR6E-11 # 2756 .044 G-Power BKR6EGP 7092 .044 Laser Platinum PFR6B-11 * 4014 .044 OE Laser Iridium IFR6E11 ^ 6741 .044 Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11 3764 .044 edit: Oh for manuals you can sometimes find used ones cheap on eBay. New OEM is about $21 online. my.subaru.com will let you download the owner manual free after you register, but I don't know if they have the '96 manuals on there....
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Subaru's can be finicky with the plug wires. They often want their own OEM wires. Also look at the coil pack connections where they connect to the plug wires. Silicone dielectric grease is what to put in the boots. It insulates and helps prevent moisture from getting in the connection and can prevent corona discharge. The flashing CEL means it's something that could cause engine damage in a short period and should be given immediate attention. Also, right after the fuel filter is changed, you can get misfire codes.
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Yes nipper has a clean install. They do really look nice. Plus they're actual Subaru gauges which is nice too. I thought about trying to use that area but these gauges wouldn't fit. I think wireloom looks attractive....ok well maybe not... I don't think i'll use the digital gauges again. I have autometer analogs in the '96. They are much easier to read with a quick glance and knowing where the needle position generally should be. The digital gauges you have to actually read the value and think about it. Plus these cyberdyne's I don't think are extremely accurate.
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Hm...cool idea nipper. I wasn't sure how much room there was back there...I probably should've looked before doing it this way...I liked your jdm gauge pics. lol yah it did turn out to be a little bit over the top. It looks weird at night before starting because all the gauges flash when the reading is 'low'. I have to figure out which is the signal wire for the a/f meter...there's 5 wires on the front o2 sensor. Whatever wire I tried isn't working.