porcupine73

Hm...yes, or you could maybe put in a switch or something to allow airbag deactivation if desired. Another issue might be insurance coverage, like if there is an accident and they determine the airbag system was tampered with.....

OK will do. The first time it happened I did bump the key quite a few times. Actually it was kind of confusing that first time because my coolant temp was at 209 deg. F. and after I'd hit the key, but no starter action, the fans would turn on.

Hello and welcome! Hm...when you say it drives fine, do you mean you drove it without the belt on the PS pump? Was the rack bleed through? You know like turning the wheels lock to lock jacked up etc there is some procedure in the manual. Once when trying to flush a unit and driving the pump with a cordless drill, it would not take any fluid for some reason. When I turned the steering wheel a couple times, then it started working... Can you blow compressed air through the supply line to see if anything comes out the return line? The lines aren't somehow reversed at the pipes? The squealing sound is probably the pump's internal pressure relief valve opening, which I think is around 800-1000psig.

Ah....ok thanks nipper I will try to remember that so I don't panic next time it happens...

Great thanks for the info, I'll look into it, especially if it starts getting worse. I don't want this thing to leave me stranded. Though in an emergency from what I see if you have it in park with key in run and jumper that solenoid wire on the starter to +12V it should start?

Ok cool. subarupartsforyou.com is where I got that info I pasted. I order from them a lot and get good results and fast ship.

Part of it could depend on it the weight sensing seats are just a switch....like it closes above a certain weight. Then you could probably just make the circuti think the weight is there all the time. If the thing has some kind of output, resistance or whatever, proportional to the weight, that could be more tricky....

Hi. '00obw, auto trans, 119k miles: twice in the past few weeks I have had a no crank situation. Like hit the key to start and nothing, can hear the relay click in the dash. Have had this car for two years and it's never done this. The first time last week I was messing around hitting the starter with hard object, was ready to try jumping the starter solenoid with a lead when I remebered seeing on here about the 'neutral safety switch'. I was getting nervous about anyone seeing me in a Subaru with the hood up, so I moved the shifter just a little and poof she fired right up. phew. Get that hood back down. Then today when leaving work it did it again: no crank. I just touched the shifter and then it cranked. Should I choke it up and replace this neutral safety switch? Is this thing like on the AT itself, or is it under the shifter somewhere? Didn't see much info in the manuel but maybe I'm not lookin the right spot. Or does it just need adjustment? I confess I did not search first.... edit: also today when it wouldn't crank I noticed a faint smell of chicken, but it's probably not related....

Yah I kind of doubt the immobilizer system can be disabled...that would kind of defeat the purpose. I would not buy that warranty. But it depends on what you want. That vehicle will probably be pretty solid. If you want it like 'insurance' then maybe OK. A lot of insurance companies offer comparable plans for less cash. You definitely want to ask what the warranty does NOT cover. Like some plans will, if say the oil drains from the engine, cover the cost of the oil, but not the cost of repairs to the engine.

A quick cheap thing to try is to rack the lever from low-hi-flash fast a few dozen times. May not fix it but it is cheap and easy to try?

This may be a case of if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Yes it may eventually develop the HG issue. But maybe it won't. If you have a backup vehicle available and can tolerate downtime, then I'd wait. If you can't tolerate any downtime, like you'll get fired, then maybe you want to replace now. And hey something else could blow up before the HG's go, who knows. There's this d00d on toronto-subaru-club that swears by cometic HG's over OEM HG's....???

Hm....say if you plug off the driver side hose to the nozzle, then run the sprayers, what happens? Not sure...maybe washer pump has a low output? Maybe you can try switching the hoses at the reservour for the front and rear pumps, then run the rear pump, just to see what happens.

Sounds like the solenoid was funky. For '00obw AT, it says torque is 37 ±2.9 ft.lb(f)

I can't find it off hand but I know I saw in the 4EAT literature (can't remember if phase I or phase II) that there is a reverse inhibit valve in the valve body. It prevents reverse above something like greater than 8mph so there should be no damage done. When you say the vehicle shut off, do you mean it stalled?

Hi. Before replacing the plugs I would check the other items listed. If the plugs look in good shape and coil pack checks I would put that money into an OEM wire set before plugs. The NGK iridiums you bought should last quite a while unless they got fouled or cracked for some reason. In order of increasing price: The V-Power BKR6E-11 is an OEM part in this application. 1996 SUBARU IMPREZA L 2.2 H4 EJ22E FI Spark Plug Part No. Stock No. Plug Gap Photo Standard BKR6ES-11 5553 .044 V-Power BKR6E-11 # 2756 .044 G-Power BKR6EGP 7092 .044 Laser Platinum PFR6B-11 * 4014 .044 OE Laser Iridium IFR6E11 ^ 6741 .044 Iridium IX BKR6EIX-11 3764 .044 edit: Oh for manuals you can sometimes find used ones cheap on eBay. New OEM is about $21 online. my.subaru.com will let you download the owner manual free after you register, but I don't know if they have the '96 manuals on there....

Just use a heat gun, they're like $10 at harbor freight. (Or use the wife's or gf's hair dryer, but don't do it when they're home and don't get any grease on it). 91039AC090 MIRROR GLASS ONLY, LEFT SIDE FOR 1995 LEGACY (non heated) MSRP $31

I think Calif. emissions requirements say something about emissions related components can't require maintenance for at least 100,000 miles. Hence the timing belt interval of 105k miles. Heat is a big enemy of timing belts too.

Subaru's can be finicky with the plug wires. They often want their own OEM wires. Also look at the coil pack connections where they connect to the plug wires. Silicone dielectric grease is what to put in the boots. It insulates and helps prevent moisture from getting in the connection and can prevent corona discharge. The flashing CEL means it's something that could cause engine damage in a short period and should be given immediate attention. Also, right after the fuel filter is changed, you can get misfire codes.

Good info. Wow those are nice fiberglass results.

That would be cool to see. I know he said the tractor pulls 10g's when he pulls the parachute and leaves bruises on his chest where the harness is. Not sure what it pulls when he goes full throttle?

Yes nipper has a clean install. They do really look nice. Plus they're actual Subaru gauges which is nice too. I thought about trying to use that area but these gauges wouldn't fit. I think wireloom looks attractive....ok well maybe not... I don't think i'll use the digital gauges again. I have autometer analogs in the '96. They are much easier to read with a quick glance and knowing where the needle position generally should be. The digital gauges you have to actually read the value and think about it. Plus these cyberdyne's I don't think are extremely accurate.

Hm...cool idea nipper. I wasn't sure how much room there was back there...I probably should've looked before doing it this way...I liked your jdm gauge pics. lol yah it did turn out to be a little bit over the top. It looks weird at night before starting because all the gauges flash when the reading is 'low'. I have to figure out which is the signal wire for the a/f meter...there's 5 wires on the front o2 sensor. Whatever wire I tried isn't working.

Cool thanks nipper. I hadn't seen many posts about them. I guess I'll see how it reads tomorrow. I see the list on the oem fpr is nearly $100... Maybe the seafoam will free it up a little or something.

Sounds like it's worth it if it isn't like 1000 miles away. Sounds like it could just be cleaned up and maybe some basic service. Should be worth some cash if it's driveable depending on mileage. Or partable at a profit.

Also look for any kinked/bent tubing going to that nozzle. Shake/jiggle/move/etc the hose from under the hood to see if that helps. If you put the hood up, you may be able to push the nozzle out the hood size with your finger or something else. Mine have popped out on their own before.